Parramatta 20th June 1815. Reverend and Dear Sir! I am happy to enform you of my safe return from New Zealand to Port Jackson after fully accomplishing the object of my Voyage to that Island, having been absent 4 Months, and have the Honor to transmit to you the following account for the information of the Society, which I am persuaded will be very gratifying to all who love Zion, and are interested in the spreading of the Redeemers Kingdom and the salvation of the Heathen Nations. I communicated to you on a former occasion my full intention of accompanying the Settlers to New Zealand, in order to aid them in their first establishment, and to give them as much influence as possible amongst the Natives; I had for many Years studied the characters of the New Zealanders, having generally some living with me, and was under no apprehension of danger from them as far as my own personal safety and those who were about to go with me were concerned; many in New South Wales were of opinion, that we should never return from the horrid massacres that have repeatedly been committed in that Island, by the Natives; but these persons, had not sufficiently considered the provocations given to the Natives by Europeans, as it is well known, that the Europeans have thought it no crime to murder and plunder these Islanders upon the most trivial occasions, and too often from mere wanton cruelty. From my first knowledge of these people, I have always considered them the finest, and noblest race of Heathens known to the civilized world, and have ever been persuaded, that they only wanted the introduction of the arts of civilization, and the knowledge of the Christian religion to make them a great Nation, and am more confirmed in this opinion since I have visited them than I was before; as I found them much more civilized in general than I had [f] previously conceived. When I was preparing for New Zealand Mr John Liddiard Nicholas a Gentleman who came out to settle in this Colony about 2 Years ago, voluntary proposed to accompany me, I readily accepted his offer— We embarked on Board the Active Brig on Saturday the 19th of November 1814, and sailed down the Harbour early that morning, but was obliged to anchor again near the mouth of it from contrary Winds, here we were detained nine days. On Monday the 28th we weighed anchor and got out to sea— The number of persons on Board the Active including Women and Children were 35— Mr Hansen, Master, his Wife and Son, Messrs Kendall, Hall, and King with their Wives and five Children, eight New Zealanders, two Otaheitians, and four Europeans belonging to the Vessel, besides Mr Nicholas, myself, two Sawyers, one Smith and one runaway convict which we afterwards found on board. We had also on board one entire Horse, two Mares, one Bull and two Cows, with a few Sheep, and Poultry of different kinds intended for the Island. The Cows and Bull had been presented by Governor McQuarrie from His Majestys Herd as mentioned in my former Letter.— Nothing of consequence happened during our Voyage, I suffered much from Sea sickness; tho' I have been so frequently at Sea I cannot get the better of that unpleasant complaint, I am always sick, and frequently compelled to keep my Bed;— On the 16th December we saw the 3 Kings, some small Islands which lay to the North end of New Zealand about 12 leagues, we sailed close by them in the afternoon— as I wished to pass a day at the North Cape, we stood away for it in the Evening with a light Breeze and saw the Land before sun set; we had little wind all night,—the next morning at day light, we were almost 4 leagues from shore, we stood in till about 8 o'Clock. I was anxious to have an interview with the Chiefs in order that I might explain to them the object of my voyage; and introduce the Settlers to them, and prepare the way for any future attempts to promote their welfare. After breakfast the Ships Boat was hoisted out with a view to visit the Shore, I directed Duaterra, Shunghee, Koro-Koro, Tooi and Tiraara, all the chiefs we had on board to go in her, and no Europeans, so that they might open an intercourse between us and the Natives; and bring us some supplies. The Boat was well armed, that they might defend themselves if any attack should be made upon them. Before the Boat had reached the Land, a Canoe [f] appeared along side the active with plenty of Fish, and shortly afterwards a chief followed from the shore, who immediately came on board with his Son, in his Canoe, there were some very fine Men, I asked him if he had seen Duaterra whom I had sent on shore, he told me he had not, and immediately shewed me a pocket Knife which he had tied to a string round his waist, which he highly valued and informed me, that it had been given to him by Duaterra a long time before; I was much gratified that we had been so fortunate as to meet with a chief who knew our friend Duaterra, as we were now likely to obtain fully the object of our visit, I told them my name, with which they seemed well acquainted; and immediately enquired after a young Man belonging to that place who had lived with me some time previously; his Brother was in the Canoe and greatly rejoiced he was to see me, he made the most anxious enquiries after his Brother, I gave him every information I cod; We were now quite free from all fear, as the Natives seemed desirous to shew their attention to us by every possible means in their power, I then enformed the Chief we wanted some Hogs and Potatoes, he requested me to send one of our people on shore in his canoe and he wod send for some immediately, I ordered one of the New Zealanders (belonging to the Active) into the Canoe as I did not think it prudent to send a European; The Chief and his Son remained on board, they seemed very happy and much gratified with our confidence in them, I explained to the Chief the object of our Voyage, and enformed him that the Active would continue to visit them from time, to time, and Messrs Kendall, Hall and King would settle at the Bay of Islands for the general benefit of their Country. I also gave him a printed Copy of Governor McQuarries Instructions to Masters of Vessels relative to them; I explained their meaning which he comprehended and much approved of and directed him to shew these instructions to all the Captns of Vessels that touched their [sic] as they would be a protection to them. He received these instructions with much satisfaction. In a short time other Canoes came to the Active, and brought abundence [sic] of the finest Fish I ever saw. Our Decks were soon covered with them, we had now a number of Natives both on board and a long side, who behaved with the greatest propriety. We traided [sic] with them for Fishing Lines, and other articles of [f] Curiosity; Before Duaterra returned and the other Chiefs with the Boat, a large War Canoe came off to the Vessel, she was very full of fine stout Men, and sailed very fast, tho' the sea was rather rough, and we were some distance from the Land, yet it was pleasing to behold with what ease she topt the rising waves. One of the principal chiefs was in this War Canoe with a number of his attendants; and along with him a young Man an Otaheitian; (known by the name of Jem by Europeans) whom I had known some years back as he had formerly resided a considerable time at Parramatta with Mr McArthur; this Otaheitian had married the chiefs Daughter, and his Wife was in the Canoe, he was much supprised [sic] to see me, I was no less so to meet him so very unexpectedly here; he had been in the habit of visiting my house when at Parramatta, and was well acquainted with my Situation in New South Wales. As he could speak English exceeding well I fully explained to him the object of my Voyage to New Zealand and what were my future plans. He was much pleased at the Idea of Europeans residing in the Island; This young Man being very intelligent and active appeared to have gained the full confidence of his Father in law, and to have great weight and influence at the North Cape, I made him, his Father in law, and the other principal Men a few presents which were greatfully [sic] received, after some conversation I mentioned to them, that the New Zealanders had been guilty of great cruelties to the Europeans and particularly in the Case of the Boyd. They replied the Europeans were the first aggressors by inflicting corporal punishment on the Chiefs. I also told them that Mr Barnes Master of the Jefferson Whaler when at Port Jackson had enformed me that they had acted treacherously towards him in attempting to cut off 2 Boats belonging to the Jefferson when she was last at the North Cape in company with the King George, I told them I was much concerned to hear these reports— and that if they continued to act in this manner no European Vessels would visit there; In reply to this the Otaheitian and chiefs stated, that the Masters of the Jefferson and King George had in the first instance behaved [f] very ill to them. They had agreed to give 150 Baskets of Potatoes and 8 Hogs for a Musket, the Potatoes and Hogs were delivered, and divided between the 2 Vessels, after which the Otaheitian and one of the Chiefs went on board the King George for the Musket which was delivered, at the same time the Master of the King George demanded more potatoes and Hogs, the chief was detained on board and the Otaheitian was sent on shore for more Potatoes and Pigs. The head Chief said he had fulfilled the agreement for the Musket by the 150 Baskets of Potatoes and 8 Hogs and he would give no more. The chief that was detained a prisioner [sic] on board the King George was the head chiefs Brother, and was at this time on Board the Active. The Otaheitian was sent on board the King George to tell the Master that no more potatoes and Hogs would be given, and to request him to release the Chief whom he had unjustly detained, this the Master refused to do and kept the Otaheitian a prisioner [sic] also: In two or 3 days they were both put on Board the Jefferson, there they remained for 3 or 4 days till they were ransomed at 170 Baskets of Potatoes and 5 Hogs; The people on shore were greatly enraged all this time and alarmed for the safety of their chief, as the Vessels were out of sight for some time; After the Potatoes and Hogs were delivered 2 Boats were sent on shore with the Otaheitian and the Chief; Great Numbers of the Natives were assembled on the Shore to receive them, they were no sooner landed than the Natives fired upon the Boats, and I have no doubt but what they wod have massacred them at the moment if they could for their fraud and cruelty. The Oataheitian [sic] told me it was not possible to restrain the people from firing upon the Boats. The Chief spoke with great warmth and indignation at the treatment he had received; I assured them that both King George and Governor McQuarrie wod punish any act of fraud or cruelty committed by the Europeans whenever they were enformed of them. I now gave them Governor McQuarries Instructions to Masters of [f] Vessels and explained the nature of them which were clearly understood by the Otaheitian who explained them to the rest; I told them the Active wod constantly visit them and by that means they might easily obtain redress from the Governor of New South Wales, and requested them never to commit any act of Violence upon the Europeans in future, but refer their complaints to Governor McQuarrie, they seemed much pleased and promised they would not injure any Vessels crews that touched there. I told them that the Masters of the King George and Jefferson would be called upon to answer for their conduct when they came to port Jackson, as I shod enform Governor McQuarrie what they had done. While the principal chief and his party remained on board, the Boat returned with Duaterra and the rest who had gone in her; Duaterra and the principal Chief seemed well acquainted, and were very polite to each other, the most friendly salutations passed between them, and Duaterra being now comparatively very rich He made several presents to his Friends as did the other chiefs who had come with me from port Jackson.— Duaterra renewed the conversation relative to their firing upon the Jeffersons Boats and laid the strongest injunctions upon them not to injure the Europeans in future, but refer their complaints to the Governor of New South Wales. This was one of the most interesting and pleasant days I had ever enjoyed, I was never more amused and gratified than upon this occas[io]n. Before evening we had got an abundant supply of Fish, Hogs, and Potatoes. I enformed the Natives I should sail that night for the Bay of Islands, they pressed us very much to stop another Day and they would bring us more Fish, Potatoes and Hogs.— I told them we had got what we wanted now, but I wod call and see them on my return to port Jackson; and if in the mean time they would prepare me some Flax, I would buy it of them. The Chief promised to have some ready. As soon [f] as Evening came on they took their leave in a very warm and affectionate manner and went into their Canoes to return to shore apparently much satisfied with the reception that they had met with on Board the Active, and the information they had received relative to the Active visiting them again, and the Europeans settling on their Island.— When they left us we immediately made sail and proceeded on our Voyage with a fair Breeze; during the night the Wind died away and in the Morning the little we had was against us so that our progress was but trifling along the Coast; the Hills and woods appeared very beautiful to the Eye; and native fires smoaked in all directions on the Main, The whole of this day the wind continued nearly the same; The next Morning we beat up against the Wind and passed the mouth of the Harbour of Whangarooa the place where the Boyd was cut off, but could not weather the Cavalles, some small inhabited Islands which lie a few Miles from the Main; the natives enformed us there was a safe passage between the Main and these Islands, and we therefore endeavoured to beat thro' them, but cod not for the contrary Wind; as we were not far from the Cavalles, I wished to visit the Natives upon them and had the Boat hoisted out for that purpose. Messrs Nicholas & Kendall, with Koro-Koro and Tooi accompanyed me on shore, as soon as we landed all the Natives ran off, and secreted themselves in the Bushes, except one old Man who being lame was not able to make his escape; we walked up to him, he appeared alarmed till he saw Koro-Koro, I then made him a present of a few trifles and in return he offered us a Basket of dried Fish which we declined accepting.— Koro-Koro left us immediately and went in search of the Natives; Mr Kendall sat down with the old Man who was much fatigued in getting up the Hill from the highness of the Land. Mr Nicholas and I went after Koro-Koro but were some time before we could find [f] him, he had gone to enquire after his Relations who lived upon this Island, After some time we found Koro Koro who had met with one of his own Men; By this time the Natives began to recover from their alarm and to come out of their hiding places; while we were talking with Koro Koro and some of the Natives, his Aunt was seen coming towards us, with some Women and children; she had a green bough twisted round her head, and another in her hand, and a young Child on her back. When she came within a hundred yards she began to make a very mournful lamentation, and hang down her head as if oppressed with the heaviest grief, she advanced to Koro Koro with a slow pace. Koro-Koro appeared much agitated and stood in deep silence like a Statue leaning upon the top of his Musket. As his Aunt advanced she prayed very loud and wept exceedingly; Tooi, Koro-Koro's Brother seemed much affected and as if he was ashamed of his aunts conduct he told us he would not Cry. I will act like an Englishman, I will not cry! Koro-Koro remained motionless till his aunt came up to him— When they laid their heads together, the Woman leaning on a staff and Koro Koro on his Gun, and in this situation they wept aloud for a long time and repeated short sentences alternately which we understood were prayers, and continued weeping the Tears rolling down their sable countenances in torrents. It was impossible to see them without being deeply affected. At this time also the Daughter of Koro-Koro's Aunt sat at her Mothers feet weeping, and all the Women joined their lamentations, we thought this an extraordinary custom amongst them of manifesting their joy, but we afterwards found that this custom was general in the Island of New Zealand. Many of these poor Women Cut themselves in their Faces Arms and Breasts with sharp shells or Flints till the blood streamed down; When their tears and lamentations had subsided, I presented the Women with a few preasants [sic]; Tooi had set [sic] all this time labouring to suppress his feelings as he had declared he wod not cry; in a short time we were joined by several fine young Men amongst them was a youth the Son of a chief of the Island, when Tooi saw him he could contain his feelings no [f] longer, but instantly ran to him and they locked each other in their arms, and wept aloud when they had saluted one another and all the Women; and gone thro' various ceremonies we then entered into conversation with them enquired why they all ran off into the Bushes; they told us that they concluded when we landed, that we were going to shoot them, these people were greatly rejoiced when they found us to be their friends. They did every thing in their power to please and gratify us, after spending a few hours we returned to the place where we had left Mr Kendall alone talking to the old Man, numbers of Natives attended us: we enjoyed here a very pleasant day as every object around us was new and interesting particularly the inhabitants. From the top of the Cavalles the view of the Main together with the Ocean and the numerous small Islands scattered upon it, is the most delightful I ever saw, at least I thought so; when we arrived we found Mr Kendall had been visited by some of the Natives who were still with him, and much entertained during our absence. In the Evening we returned to the Vessel accompanyed by the Son of the Chief, and some Chiefs from the Main, who remained on board all night.— The next morning the wind still continued against us, and we had been labouring more than a day and a night to work the Vessel either round the Islands or between them and the Main to no purpose. I thought it most prudent as there was good Anchorage to bring the Vessel to Anchor and wait for a fair wind, accordingly I communicated my wishes to the Master, and we came to Anchor between the Islands and the Main in 7 fathoms water, we now lay about 5 leagues from Whangorooa the Harbour where the Boyd was cut off, and her Crew massacred and one league from the Main, a part of New Zealand belonging to the Chief Shunghee who was on board the Active having been to pay me a visit at port Jackson; Duaterra and Shunghee had often told me of the bloody war that had been carried on between the people of Whangorooa, and the Bay of Islands [f] from the time the Boyd was cut off to that period. During their stay at port Jackson they were always apprehensive that the chiefs of Whangarooa would take advantage of their absence and make an attack upon the People at the Bay of Islands, however we here learned that there had been no disturbances while they had been gone. After the Boyd had been cut off, Tippahee a Chief belonging to the Bay of Islands, and who had visited Port Jackson, and while there received great attention; was accused of being concerned in that dreadful Massacre, and in consequence of which the Whalers who were at that time upon the coast and came into the Bay of Islands shortly after united together and sent seven armed boats before day to attack the Island of Tippahee on which they landed and shot ever Man whoman [sic] and child that came in their way, in which attack Tippahee received 7 shots and soon afterwards died. Duaterra and Shunghee always declared that Tippahee was innocent of the crime for which he suffered. Whangorooa is situated about 40 Miles nearer the North Cape than the bay of Islands. Tippahee was in the habit of trading with the people of Whangorooa and happened to go with a Cargo of Fish the very day the Boyd was taken. The whole of the Crew were massacred when he arrived excepting 5 Men who were in the rigging; These he took into his own Canoe and landed them with a view of saving their lives, but being followed by the people who had cut off the Boyd, these 5 were forcibly taken from him and instantly put to death. This is the account given by those New Zealanders who first visited New South Wales. They originally declared that Tippahee was innocent of the distruction [sic] of the Boyd.— The people at the Bay of Islands in consequence of the Death of their chief Tappahee [sic] declared War against the people of Whangorooa and several desperate battles had been fought and the War was likely to continue, I had often told Duaterra & Shunghee that it wod be to the interest of all parties to make peace and that I wished to see it established before I quitted New Zealand. Duaterra expressed his doubts as to the accomplishment of this object. I told him I thought if I cod obtain an interview with the Chiefs I might bring it about, and that it was my determination [f] to visit Whangorooa before my return and try what cod be done. The next day the wind still continued in the same quarter, which obliged us to remain at Anchor; I again visited the Cavalles, and there learned that the Chiefs of Whangorooa and all the principal Warriors had come to the Funeral of some great Man who died a few days before, and were then encamped on the shore opposite to where the Active lay; at this information I hastened on board and consulted with Duaterra told him how anxious I was to make peace now that the Europeans were coming to settle amongst them, that this would secure the lives of the Europeans and tend to the general benefit of their Country, I expressed my wish to visit the Camp of the Whangorooa people and hear what the Chiefs had to say on the subject; as he had never met these people since the loss of the Boyd but in the Field of Battle, he hesitated for some time, I did all I could to induce him to try the experiment. He was not afraid of himself, but apprehensive some accident might happen to me or some person belonging to me. At length he consented to go on shore with me, Shunghee and Koro Koro agreed to accompany us, Messrs Nicholas, Kendall, King and Hansen volunteered to do the same; we took several loaded muskets in the Boats with us, the Beach where we were to land belonged to Shunghee and was covered with Shunghees people. When we approached near the Shore we saw the Whangorooa Chiefs with their Warriors encamped upon a high Sugar loaf Hill to the left hand of us with their Colors flying. The foot of this Hill communicates with the Sea. As soon as they saw us land (our distance from them being about half a Mile) they took to their spears struck their colors and ran off as fast as they cod, Duaterra took a brace of large Pistols, and told me to follow him slowly, for he should come up with them at a certain point so as to speak with them, as they could not escape him their [sic] being no other way they could go on account of the Sea. We all marched together after Duaterra being surrounded by an immense croud [sic] of Men, Women and Children belonging to Shunghee; Some of the principals of these people run in different directions to clear the way and keep the croud from pressing us. In a short time Duaterra returned to meet us and called to me to come forward, accordingly we mended our pace and soon came in sight of the Whangorooa people [f] who had stoped [sic] to receive us. A line was formed on each side for us to march thro' throm [sic], An old Women [sic] whom I took to be a Priestess made a very great noise and waved a Flag as we advanced, the Chiefs were all seated on the ground according to their custom, and their Warriors standing up with their spears fixed upright which were from 15 to 20 feet in length, and upwards, and were armed also with their Patooes; Duaterra stood at some distance from the chiefs who were seated, with a Pistol in his hand; when I had got up to the chiefs, Duaterra discharged his Pistol and afterwards ordered the Muskets belonging to our party to be discharged which was done. The Whangorooa people discharged their Muskets also; These I considered as most favorable omens to my object, One of the principal Chiefs who had cut off the Boyd had been at Parramatta and knew me, he had been on board the Whalers for a considerable time and spoke English well enough to be understood, he is known by the Europeans by the name of George. I made the chiefs a few presents and after some conversation upon various subjects and particularly upon the occasion of my Visit to New Zealand, I enquired how they came to cut off the Boyd and Massacre her crew. 2 of them stated that they were at port Jackson when the Boyd was there and had been put on board by Mr Lord in order to return home, that the head chief (George) had fallen sick when on board and was unable to do his duty as a common Sailor, in consequence of which he was severely punished, refused provisions and threatened to be thrown overboard and many other indignaties [sic] were offered him even by the common Sailors, he remonstrated with the Master, begged him not to inflict corporal punishment upon him, that he was a chief in his own Country which they wod know on their arrival at New Zealand. He was told he was no chief, with many abusive terms which he mentioned and which are but too commonly used by British Sailors. When he arrived at Whangorooa his Back was in a very lacerated state and his friends and people were determined to revenge the insults which had been offered him, he said if he had not been treated with such cruelty the Boyd would never have been touched; From the accounts which these chiefs and their people gave of the distruction [sic] of the Boyd, Tippahee [f] had no hand in this melancholy event. It was wholly their own act and deed. This being strictly true, and I see no reason to disbelieve their declaration, that Tippahee and his people were innocent sufferers, and their deaths laid the foundation for much Bloodshed; many since that period have been cut off both belonging to the Bay of Islands and in Whangorooa, I never passed Tippahees Island without a sigh. It is now desolate, without an inhabitant, and has been so ever since his Death. The ruins of his little Cottage which was built by the kindness of the late Governor King still remains; I wod hope that those Europeans who were concerned in that fatal transaction were ignorant at the time that they were punishing the innocent, I think it probable the mistake if there was one, which I am inclined to believe, originated in the affinity between the names of Tippahee and the Chief of Whangorooa who was principally concerned in the destruction of the Boyd, and whose name is Tippoohee, this Chief I saw and conversed with on the subject. Having fully satisfied myself relative to the loss of the Boyd, and explained to these people the reason of the Actives coming to New Zealand, I found as night was coming on I cod not accomplish the grand object I had in view Viz. to make peace without spending more time with them, and therefore I resolved to remain all night in their Camp; Shunghee had given directions to his people to prepare supper for us nearly a Mile from where we then were, I told the chiefs we would go to visit Shunghee's people and when we had taken some refreshment I and Mr Nicholas would return and spend the night in their Camp, in order that we might have a little more conversation with them, to this they readily consented and with a view to shew some marked attention they entertained us with a sham fight, War-dance and song of victory before we went to Shunghees people. After these Ceremonies were over we took leave and returned to the place where we had landed attended by a very large number of natives, Shunghee's Servants had got our potatoes and Fish prepared. Duaterra and the party who had come with us from the Active, now returned on board leaving myself, Mr Nicholas and Shunghee to spend the night on Shore; we sat down upon the ground to Supper, but were soon almost smothered with the natives who crouded [sic] so close around us [f] that I was compelled to draw a circle and directed the Natives not to pass it, we were here much amused with these people and they appeared equally so with us, and manifested every wish to serve us; after spending about an hour with them we returned to the camp of the Whangorooa people who had removed about half a Mile further from the place where we had had our first interview with them, and had taken their station in a level piece of ground which I estimated to contain about one hundred acres. When we arrived they received us very cordially, we sat down amongst them, and the chiefs surrounded us. I now renewed our conversation relative to the distruction of the Boyd with a view of bringing about a reconcilliation [sic] between them and the inhabitants of the Bay of Islands as I considered it of great importance to the Mission to establish peace between these contending parties. The Chiefs told me the state the Boyd was then in and promised to give me the Guns and whatever remained belonging to her if I wod go into their Harbour; They had got some of the Guns on shore and would get the rest; The chief (George) told me that his Father and 5 others were blown up in the Boyd when she took Fire. His Father had got part of the powder upon Deck and some of the Muskets, and was trying one of the Flints in a Musket whether it wod strike Fire or no, when a spark caught the powder and set the Boyd on Fire and killed all that were near; He pressed me much to go into their Harbour, I told him I probably should before I left New Zealand, if the Wind wod permit, but I cod not go at that time on account of the Stock and number of People I had on board the Active, I then spoke to him on the subject of peace, pointed out to him how much more it wod be for their interest and happyness to turn their attention to agriculture and the improvement of their Country than continue to fight and murder one another, and particularly now as the Europeans were going to settle amongst them, through whom they could obtain Wheat to sow their lands with, and Tools for agriculture, I assured them, that every assistance wod be given to them by the Europeans to promote the improvement [f] of their present station and that if they wod only attend to the cultivation of their Lands and lay aside all Wars and Murders they would soon become a great and happy People; George replied they did not want to fight any more and was ready to make peace. Much conversation passed principally respecting New Zealand and Port Jackson which George had visited. I endeavoured to impress upon his Mind the comforts we enjoyed compared to them both in our mode of living, Houses &c which he well knew; that all such comforts they might equally enjoy in a short time by cultivating their Lands, and improving themselves in useful knowledge which they wod now have an oppertunity [sic] to acquire from the European Settlers. He seemed sensible of all these advantages and expressed a wish to follow my advice, we were surrounded by the other Chiefs and their people during our conversation. As the evening advanced the people began to retire to rest in different groups. About 11 oClock Mr Nicholas and myself wraped [sic] ourselves up in our Great Coats and prepared for rest also, George directed me to lie by his side, his Wife and Child lay upon the right hand and Mr Nicholas close by. The Night was clear, the Stars shone bright, and the Sea in our front was smooth, around us were numerous spears stuck upright in the ground and groupes [sic] of Natives laying in all directions like a Flock of Sheep upon the Grass as there were neither Tents nor Huts to cover them. I viewed our present situation with new sensations and feelings that I cannot express. Surrounded by canibals [sic] who had Massacred and devoured our Countrymen I wondered much at the misteries [sic] of providence and how these things could be! Never did I behold the blessed advantages of civilization in a more greatful [sic] light as now; I did not sleep much during the night, my Mind was too seriously occupied by the present scene, and the new and strange ideas it naturally excited. About 3 oClock in the Morning I rose, walked about the Camp, surveying the different Groupes of Natives, some of them put out their Heads from under the top of their Kakkahows which are like a Bee Hive and spoke to me. When the [f] Morning light returned, we beheld Men Women and Children asleep in all directions like the Beasts of the field. I had directed the Boat to come on shore for us at day light, and soon after Duaterra arrived in the Camp. I now envited [sic] the Chiefs on board of the Active to breakfast, which invitation they readily accepted. We immediately went all in the Boat together and several Canoes put off at the same time for the Active; At first I entertained doubts whether the Chiefs wod trust themselves with us or no on account of the Boyd lest we shod detain them when we had them in our power, but they shewed no signs of fear and went on board with apparent confidence, I communicated to Duaterra my intention to make them some presents, he told me whatever article I gave to one I must give a similar article to another, and each article was to be given separately and to the Eldest chief first. The Axes, Billhooks Prints &c &c which I intended to give them were all got ready; After breakfast the Chiefs were seated in the Cabin in great form to receive the presents, I sat on one side of the Table, and they on the other, Duaterra, stood and handed each article separately I was to give them. Messrs Kendall, Hall and King with the Master of the Active and his Son were all one after another introduced to the Chiefs; The Chiefs at the same time were enformed [sic] what duty each of the persons were appointed to do: Mr Kendall to instruct their Children, Mr Hall to build houses Boats &c &c and Mr King to make fishing lines and Mr Hansen to command the active which would be employed in bringing Axes and such other articles as were wanted from Port Jackson to enable them to cultivate their land and improve their Country; When these ceremonies were over of giving and receiving the presents, I expressed my hopes that they wod have no more Wars; but from that time would be reconciled to each other, Duaterra, Shunghee & Koro Koro all shook hands with the chiefs of Whangorooa and saluted each other as a token of reconciliation by [f] joining their noses together, I was much gratified to see these Men at amity once more and sincerely wish that this peace may never be broken; and considered the time well enjoyed [sic] while we had been detained by adverse Winds; The Chiefs took their leave after this much pleased with our attention to them, and promised never to injure any Europeans in future, having now nothing more to do and the Wind becoming favorable, in the afternoon we weighed and stood for the Bay of Islands and reached the mouth of the Harbour that night, but for want of wind we cod not get in; About 10 o'Clock the next morning we entered the Mouth of the Harbour and was met by a War Canoe belonging to Koro Koro who resides upon the South Side of the Harbour. In this Canoe were Koro Koro's Son and a number of his Servants. They were all greatly rejoiced to see their Chief, He left his Son on board and immediately went on Shore in his Canoe. About 3 oClock on Thursday the 22nd December we anchored on the north side of the Harbour about 7 Miles from the Heads in a Cove opposite to the Town of Ranghee-Hoo where Duaterra was wont to reside to the great joy of his People. The Active was soon surrounded with Canoes from all quarters, On going ashore Duaterra and Shunghee found all their Friends and relatives well who wept much for joy at their return and the Women cut themselves in a similar manner to those at the Cavalles with shells and flints till the blood flowed down: It was in vain to attempt to persuade them not to do this, as they considered it the strongest proof of their affections, The next day we landed the Horses and Cattle and fixed upon a place for the present residence of the Settlers and began to clear away the Rubbish, and prepare for erecting the Houses for their reception on a piece of ground adjoining to the native Town pitched upon by Duaterra and the [f] Chiefs of the place. About 8 oClock on Saturday Morning Koro-Koro who lives about 9 Miles from the Settlers came to pay his respects to us, He was attended by 10 Canoes full of his Warriors with some Women and Children. The Canoes came down in a regular line with Colors flying, which when we observed we immediately hoisted ours.— Some of his officers stood up and regulated all their merryments both by word of command and signals made by their large Patooes ornamented with Feathers which they held in their hands, and kept in constant motion, Koro Koro was dressed in his native Clothing and also his Brother Tooi, and painted with red Ochre as were all the Warriors, and Feathers in their Hair. The whole presented a grand Warlike appearance, they advanced with great speed towards the Active, and kept a regular line, each Man striking his paddle at the same instant so that the whole had the appearance of one stroke. They sung the War Song as they approached and performed all their Gestures and threats as if they were determined upon attacking the Vessel. They were saluted with a discharge of 13 small arms, the Song of Victory was then sung in the Canoes, and their War rejoicings performed, after this Koro Koro with the Chiefs who had come along with him came on board and made us several presents in the politest manner. A number of Chiefs from other districts was also on board, Koro Koro introduced them all one by one to us, pointed out the particular attention that each had shewn him while in Port Jackson, and lamented that the poverty of his Country prevented him returning our kindness according to his wishes. He was also very particular in explaining to the other Chiefs for what purposes Messrs Kendall, Hall and King came to reside at New Zealand. Duaterra and his Friends were present on the occasion and assisted in regulating the necessary ceremonies and forms in which Koro Koro and his party were to be received. [f] It had been previously settled between Duaterra and Kora Kora unknown to us, that when the latter came to pay his respects we were to be entertained with a sham fight. After taking some refreshment preperations [sic] were made to go on Shore. Koro Koro was about to make an attack upon Duaterra's people and take the place by storm. Duaterra then went on shore to prepare for the defence of his place. A number of Canoes immediately joined us belonging to other Chiefs full of people. When Koro-Koro left the Active I accompanyed by Mr Nicholas and the Settlers went with him. Duaterra had got all his Men drawn up armed with their spears and other Wepons [sic] of War; Koro-Koro's Canoe advanced towards the shore in the same order of Battle which they approached the active. A chief belong [sic] to Duaterra quite naked ran furiously to and frow [sic] along the Beach armed, making a most horrid noise and daring them to land. As the Canoes came nearer to the shore those in them encreased [sic] their shouts and furious gestures; At length they all jumped out of the Canoes into the Water, and in one close body began the attack. Duaterra's Men all retreated as fast as possible and the others pursued them a considerable distance, when Duaterra's Men suddenly wheeled round and attacked their pursuers: The battle then became general, a number of Women were in the heat of the action among whom was Tippahees old Wife not much less than 70 Years of age and Duaterra's Wife bearing a Patooa in her hand about 7 feet long made out of the jaw bone of a Whale. This weapon she brandished about in the very centre of the Battle and went thro' all the various movements of the Men whether in retreating or advancing. After both parties had run and struggled together 'till nearly exhausted some having been trampled upon and others accidently [sic] knocked down, they formed a close body and united in the shouts of Victory and War Dance which ended the Scene.— Duaterra [f] during the action commanded one party and Koro Koro the other. Duaterra passed the remaining part of the day in preparing the Sabbath. He enclosed about half an acre of Land with a Fence, Erected a pulpit and reading Desk in the Centre and covered the whole either with black native Cloth or some duck which he had brought with him from Port Jackson. He also procured some bottoms of old Canoes and fixed them up as Seats on each side the pulpit for the Europeans to set upon intending the next day to have divine service performed there. These preparations he made of his own accord and in the Evening enformed me every thing was ready for divine service. I was much pleased with this singular mark of his attention; The reading Desk was about 3 feet from the ground and the Pulpit about 6 feet: the black Cloth covered the top of the Pulpit and hung over the sides, the bottom of the pulpit as well as the reading Desk was part of a Canoe: the whole was becoming and had a solemn appearance. He had also erected a Flag Staff on the highest Hill in the Village which had a very commanding view. On Sunday Morning when I went upon Deck I saw the English Flag flying which was a pleasing sight in New Zealand. I considered it the signal and the dawn of Civilization, Liberty, and Religion in that dark and benighted land. I never viewed the British Colors with more gratification and flattered myself they wod never be removed till the Natives of that Island enjoyed all the happyness of British subjects. About 10 oClock we prepared to go ashore for the first time to publish the glad tidings of the gospel. I was under no apprehensions for the safety of the Vessel, and therefore ordered all on board to go on shore to attend divine service except the Master and one Man. When we landed we found Koro-Koro Duaterra, and Shunghee dressed in Regmentals (which Governor McQuarrie had given them) with their Men drawn up ready to march into the enclosure to attend divine Service. They had their swords by their sides & a switch [f] in their hand. We entered the enclosure and were placed on the seats on each side the pulpit. Koro Koro marched his Men and placed them on my right hand in the rear of the Europeans and Duaterra placed his Men on the left. The inhabitants of the Town with the Women and Children and a number of other Chiefs formed a circle round the whole. A very solemn silence prevailed! the sight was truly impressive! I got up and began the Service with singing the old hundred Psalm, and felt my very Soul melt within me when I received [sic] my congregation and considered the state we were in. After reading the service during which the natives stood up and sat down at the signal given by the motion of Koro Koro's switch which was regulated by the movements of the Europeans. It being Christmas day I preached from the 2nd Chapter of St Luke's Gospel and 10th Verse. "Behold I bring you glad tidings of great joy &c" The Natives told Duaterra they cod not understand what I meant; He replied they were not to mind that now for they wod understand by and bye, and that he wod explain my meaning as far as he cod. When I had done preaching he enformed them what I had been talking about, Duaterra was very much pleased that he had been able to make all the necessary preparations for the performance of divine service in so short a time, and we felt much obliged to him for his attention. He was extremely anxious to convince us that he wod do every thing for us that lay in his power and that the good of his Country was his principal consideration.— In the above manner the gospel has been introduced into New Zealand, and I fervently pray that the glory of it may never depart from its inhabitants till time shall be no more! When the service was over we returned on board much gratified with the reception we had met with, and we cod not but feel the strongest persuation [sic] that the time was at hand when the glory of the Lord wod be revealed to these poor benighted heathens, [f] and that those who were to remain on the Island had strong reason to believe, that their labours wod be crowned and blessed with success. In the Evening I administered the holy Sacrament on board the Active in remembrance of our Savours [sic] birth and what he had done and suffered for us. Thus Sir! I have enformed you how we devoted our first sabbath day at New Zealand. I assure you, it was much more congenial to our feelings than any gratification we had previously anticipated. On Monday Morning as there were no Timber at Ranghee Hoo fit for erecting the necessary buildings for the Settlers I determined to take the Active to the Timber district which I understood was about 20 Miles distant on the opposite side of the Harbour on a fresh Water river as this wod save considerable expence and supply what was wanted at once. I therefore ordered all the Iron and various other articles to be landed and given in charge of Duaterra. The poultry were also sent on shore. The Sawyers and Smiths with young Mr Hansen left the Active likewise. I directed them with the assistance of the Natives to build a Hut 60 feet long and 16 feet wide, and thatch it for the reception of the Settlers and Families. When we returned from the Timber district the Natives seemed very willing to assist us as much as they cod , I found now I shod be much distressed for axes and other articles of trade as the presents I had made at the North Cape and along the Coast had very much reduced my Stock; we had also omitted to bring Coals with us from Port Jackson which was a loss I hardly knew how to remedy and nothing cod be done nor provisions purchased from the Natives without Axes and Carpenters Tools. I had no alternative but to erect a Smiths Shop and burn Charcoal as soon as possible in order that the Smith might get to work and make such axes &c as the Natives wanted, I consequently desired that some of the Natives along with the Smith shod be employed in burning Charcoal and erecting a Shop till the Active returned. Having given such [f] directions as I deemed necessary on Tuesday we weighed Anchor and made Sail for the Timber district taking with me all the Settlers and Families. This district belonged to another Chief named Terra an old Man apparantly [sic] 70 years of Age. Terra is the head Chief on the South side and a Man of considerable influence from which I judged it prudent to wait upon him to obtain his permition [sic] to cut what timber we wanted in the first instance in order to prevent any misunderstandings. Accordingly when we came opposite his Village, I went accompanyed by Messrs Nicholas, Kendall, and King to visit him and took with me a young Man about 17 years of Age who was a relation of the chiefs, and who had been almost 9 years from New Zealand, the latter part of which period he had lived with me in Parramatta; He had also lived several years with a Mr Drummond at Norfolk Island who had been exceeding kind to him. When we landed I found him sitting upon the Beach with some of his Chiefs and people. He received us very cordially & wept much, and particularly at the Young Mans return, as did many more and some wept aloud. I presented him with an Axe, Adze and 2 plane Irons with several other trifles. He said he did not want any presents from me only my Company as he had heard so often of me from his people and others. I told him I waited upon him to beg his permission to cut some Timber in his district for building the Houses of the Europeans at Ranghee Hoo. He expressed a strong desire that they wod come and reside with him, I pointed out to him that they cod not come at present, but must settle with Duaterra in consequence of our long acquaintance with him, but that in time some Europeans shod come to live with them; He gave his consent for us to have what Timber we wanted. He enformed [sic] me, that the Wheat which had been given to him when the Active was there before was growing, I went to see it & found it almost ripe. As the Active had gone on and I was [f] told we were several Miles from whence she wod Anchor and Night coming on, I wished to take my leave, but the old Chief wod not consent to that till we had taken some refreshment. He ordered his Cooks to dress some sweet potatoes as soon as possible. These are esteemed by them as their choisest [sic] food. In a short time, a Basket of them were brought ready roasted and placed before us, the Chief sat by us with his Wives and a number of Men Women and Children. He wod not eat with us nor permit any of his people, and when we parted with him he ordered 2 Baskets of Sweet Potatoes to be put into the Boat for our use. I envited [sic] him to come on board of the Active which he promised to do and we took our leave being much gratified with the attention of this Chief and his people. The next Morning we were visited by great numbers of Natives from different districts. I contracted with some of the subordinate Chiefs for a Cargo of Timber. The Active lay about 12 Miles from the fresh Water River where the Pines grew, and from there not being sufficient Water to bring her nearer, I went up accompanyed by Messrs Nicholas and Hall to see the Pines and found a considerable Village upon the Banks of the River which they call Cowa-Cowa. When our arrival was known, we were soon surrounded by numbers of the natives who vied with one another in their attentions. None of us were under the smallest apprehentions [sic] of danger any more than if amongst Europeans. In about 10 days we had got our Cargo and ready to return to Ranghee Hoo. During the time the Natives were getting the Timber, I and Mr Nicholas visited different places for several Miles round and passed one night with an old Chief who gave us an account of Captn Cook when in the Bay of Islands. He was then a young Man. He shewed us where they pitched their Tents, washed their Cloths, Watered their Ships and Cut their Wood; and related several occurrences that happened while Captn Cook remained there. Our cargo [f] being compleated [sic] on Friday the 6th of Jany 1815 we weighed anchor and sailed from Cowa-Cowa for Ranghee Hoo; When we arrived the Hut which I had directed to be built was almost finished. It was my intention as soon as the Settlers and their baggage were all safely landed to visit either Whangorooa or the River Thames as the Wind at the time might permit, as several of the Natives of Whangorooa had visited the Active since peace was established between them and the people of the Bay of Islands. As the Hut wod not be ready for the reception of the Settlers for 4 or 5 Days. I agreed with Shunghee to visit one of his Villages in the intrim [sic] about 35 Miles from Rangheehoo, Mr Nicholas volunteered to accompany me early on Monday Morning the 9th Shunghee, Duaterra, his Wife, and several Chiefs came off to the Active in a War Canoe in which we were to get up one of the Western branches of the Harbour, from whose heads we were to walk to a place called Wymattee where the above mentioned Village was built. After breakfast we left the Active and went on board the Canoe which was very large and commodious. Sixteen persons cod row on each side; we cod either sit or lie down at pleasure. These Canoes go very quick thro' the Water and afford the most pleasant conveyance for Passengers. Some of them are 80 or 90 Feet in length. A smaller Canoe attended us with some of the common Servants of Shunghee. About 11 oClock we reached the head of the Cove which he [sic] estimated to be about 15 Miles from the active. Here we landed in a Potatoe ground belonging to Shunghees Brother, named Kangorooa, where we were to take some refreshment before we proceeded on our journey. Duaterra, and his Wife had already gone to their [f] Farms. The Servants were all busy some digging Potatoes, others making lines [sic] to roast them. Hearing the sound of a very heavy fall of Water at a little distance, I went to examine it while the Potatoes were roasting, and found the fresh Water River falling on a bed of Rocks which ran from Bank to Bank. I estimated the fall to be at about 9 feet perpendicular with plenty of Water for turning Mills of any kind. A regular bed of solid Rock ran direct across the salt Water Cove, and formed a dam similar to many of the artificial dams in England. The Water seemed to be supplied from regular Springs as there were no marks on the Banks of Floods as in New South Wales from heavy rains. The Land upon both sides of this River appeared very good. After taking some refreshments about one oClock we set off from [sic] Whymattee; for the first 3 or 4 Miles we passed thro' a rich level Country in general. The Land free from Timber and cod be easily Ploughed; It appeared to me to be good strong Wheat Land and was covered with Fern; for the next 6 Miles the Land was of various qualities, some exceeding good, some Stony, some swampy, and some of a gravelly nature; the whole of this tract of Country taken collectively wod form a good agricultural Settlement. It is watered by several fine streams which seldom run thro' it more than a Mile apart, and skirted in various places with lofty Pines and other Timber, when we had walked near 10 Miles we entered a very fine wood, in which there were some of the largest Pines I had seen. We measured one which was more than 30 feet in girth and probably not less than 100 feet in height without a Branch, it appeared to be nearly the same thickness at the top as at the bottom, while passing thro' this Wood we met with a [f] Chiefs Wife, who was overjoyed to see us, her Husbands name was Tarria, a very fine handsome Man, he had been on board the Active a few days before, when he told me that some time back a boats crew belonging to a Whaler had entered his Potatoe grounds in the Bay of Islands to steal his potatoes, and that he had set his Father and some more of his people to watch them, when the Europeans shot his Father dead, likewise one Man, and one Woman. He afterwards watched them himself and killed 3 Europeans, I understood that the Europeans belonged to a Whaler called the New Zealander. Shortly after meeting Tarrias Wife, however, we came to his Village situated on the Banks of a fine run of fresh Water and much rich Land about it, we enquired how many Wives he had and were told 10, Tarria was from home, but his Wives pressed us much to have some refreshment with them; There were a number of Servants both Men and Women, we consented to their wishes amd Shunghee having shot us a wild Duck we had it dressed immediately while Tarrias Servants prepared abundance of Potatoes for the whole party. We stopt in this Village about 2 hours. They had a number of fine hogs, but no other animals excepting Dogs; The New Zealanders are a very cheerful race, we were here entertained with a Dance and Song and they were very merry all the time we were with them. We took our leave of them a little before the Sun went down, and proceeded on our journey, and arrived at Shunghees Village just before dark, where we were received with the loudest acclamations by his people a part of whom wept for joy. This Village contains about 200 Houses; It is situated on the summit of an almost inaccessible Hill, and strongly fortified both by nature and Art. Three very deep trenches have been cut round the sides of the Hill one above another, and each trench fenced round with whole or split Trees from 12 to 20 feet high, we entered this extraordinary fortification thro' a [f] narrow Gate way, when Shunghee shewed us how he defended his place in time of War. He had one small secret cover where he cod lie concealed and fire upon the Enemy: Every little Hut is fenced round in this enclosure; some of the Store Houses for the reception of their Spears or provisions are about 30 feet long and 20 wide and well built, the roofs are thatched, and some of the eves [sic] extend three feet over the sides in order to carry off the Water and keep the Buildings dry. In the centre of the Fortification on the very summit of the Hill, a stage is erected upon a single Pillar about 6 feet long & 3 broad hewn out of a solid Tree and elevated about 6 feet from the ground; upon this the Chief either sits for pleasure or business just as occasions require his consulting with his people. It commands a most extensive view of the surrounding Country in all directions; Near the Stage is a little Hut about 4 feet from the ground 3 feet long and 2 wide with a small Image placed upon the left side of the door which does not exceed one foot. A seat is placed in front upon which the Chiefs Lady sits when she eats; her provisions being deposited in this little building. About 9 oClock we were enformed our room was ready where we were to sleep, some clean Matts had been spread upon the floor for us to lie upon. We wrapped ourselves up in our great Coats and laid down for the Night. A number of the Natives lay in different Situations, some under cover, and some in the open air, We had enjoyed a very pleasant day and our long Walks had prepared us for a sound sleep tho’ not indulged with a Feather Bed.— Early in the Morning on Tuesday the 10th we rose with an intention of visiting a fresh water lake about 5 Miles distant from the Village. We sat [sic] off with Shunghee and several Chiefs with a number of Servants: Ones way lay thro' a Wood composed of various kinds of Timber together with the Noble Pine. We cod not but view these wonderful productions of nature with reverence and astonishment. In our way to the lake we passed thro' some [f] very rich Land, and soon arrived to a small Village where Shunghees people were at work preparing their ground for planting potatoes. There was a very fine crop nearly ripe, the Land was very dry and rich, and the Potatoes mealy. I had never seen finer potatoes under the best culture. When we had walked nearly 2 Miles we came to the Lake, It might be about 12 Miles in circumference and we were enformed it emptied itself into the Head of a River which runs into the Sea on the West side of New Zealand, and was about one hours walk from the Lake. The land appeared very good on the North side of it. We amused ourselves about 2 hours in viewing this Lake, and neighbouring grounds attached thereto, and then returned to the last Village where we dined off a wild Duck, and potatoes; as also some provisions we had brought with us. The Duck Shunghee shot at the Lake. After this we returned to the fortification where we slept that night. Shunghees people here appeared very industerous [sic]. They rose at the dawn of Day both Men and Women; Some were busy making Baskets for Potatoes, others dressing Flax, or making Clothing: At least, none remained unimployed [sic]. Shunghee and his Brother Kangoroa have a large tract of Country similar to one of the Counties in England. It extends from the East to the West side of New Zealand and is well watered, we saw much land well adapted for cultivation. Shunghee had near the Village we were at one field which appeared to me to contain 40 Acres all fenced in with rails and upright stakes tied to them to keep out the pigs. Much of it was planted with Turnips & common sweet Potatoes and were in high cultivation.— They suffer no weeds to grow but with incredible labour and patience root up every thing likely to injure the growing Crop. Their Tools of Agriculture are principally made of wood, some formed like a spade and others like a Crow bar with which they turn over the Soil. Axes, howes [sic] and Spades; are much wanted. If these could be obtained their Country wod soon put on a different appearance. [f] No labour of Man without Iron can clear and subdue uncultivated Land to any extent. The New Zealanders seem to do as much in this respect as the strength and wisdom of Man is equal in their Situation. Shunghee shewed me some exceeding fine Wheat; The seed I had sent over about 7 Months before. It was nearly ripe; The Ear was very full and large. He put a very high value upon it, as he appeared to know its worth from his few months residence at Parramatta. I had also sent over a little English Flax Seed. This had been sown and come to great perfection far superior to any I had observed in New South Wales. He treated us in his visit to his Village with all the attention and hospitality his means afforded. He had Slain 2 Hogs and we had what we wanted of them dressed after our own mode. Early on Wednesday the Eleventh we took our leave of this extraordinary Fortification and the people who resided in it intending to breakfast at the Village belong [sic] to Tarria about 5 Miles distant. Shunghee directed his Servants to take along with them 2 fine Hogs for the use of the Vessel. We arrived at Tarrias Village a little after 7 oClock where we were kindly received. The fires were soon lighted and preparations made for breakfast. Several Natives joined us here we had not seen before. Terria [sic] was not yet returned. After I and Mr Nicholas had taken breakfast I had Tea made for the Wives of Tarria and Shunghee who surrounded us. They all refused to take any. Shunghee told me they were all Tabooed and were prohibited taken [sic] any thing but Water. I pressed Shunghee to allow one of his Wives who had a little Child about one Month old (and had followed us from the Village) to take a little. He replied she cod not drink any for if she did his Child wod Die, I was fully convinced that their refusing to take the Tea was founded upon some superstitious notions; They were all very fond of Bread and Sugar. I distributed what remained amongst them, and Shunghee with all the other Chiefs drank the Tea. In about 2 hours we proceeded towards the Cove where we had left the War Canoe on Monday Morning. [f] The distance we had to walk was about 10 Miles. Our party consisted of 25 persons all natives of New Zealand except Mr Nicholas and myself. In about 3 hours we reached the Canoe, here we stopt and dined and afterwards, set off for the Active. When we had got about within 7 Miles from the Vessel we met Duaterra in his War Canoe with a supply of provisions, particularly Tea, Sugar and Bread, he was apprehensive we shod want these Articles as we had been absent one day longer than was intended when we left the Active. As Shunghee and Duaterra approached each other, they mutually fired a piece, which is held by them as a mark of respect. These 2 War Canoes were nearly matched, and they were determined to try their strength and skill to see which could go the quickest; Shunghee commanded one, and Duaterra the other, they both ran at so rapid a rate, that it was not possible to tell at times which had the advantage. We were much amused with the exact order they struck their paddles and the exercise of their skill.— One Man in each Canoe gave the signal for every stroke, which changed every few seconds, some times the strokes were long and slow, at others short and quick; In a little time we reached the Active. On Monday Morning previous to leaving the Vessel I directed that the Settlers and Families should be landed and every thing belonging to them as soon as the building was ready for their reception, On my return I found Mr Kendall and his Family on shore and every preparation made for Messrs Hall and King. As I intended to sail either for Whangorooa or the River Thames as soon as the Active was cleared, I went on shore to make the necessary arrangements for my Departure, when I landed, I was enformed, that a Chief named Werrier Nephew to the late Tippahee was very much enraged with his Wife and had beat her, in consequence of finding a Nail in her possession; The Nail had excited Werries jealousy which caused him to demand where she had got it; She told him, that a Man belonging to the Active had given it to her as a present. Werrie cod not be persuaded that any Man wod give his Wife so [f] valuable a present as a nail unless her conduct had been improper. I was apprehensive that this unpleasant circumstance might be attended with serious consequences unless the Chiefs mind could be satisfied with respect to the chastity of his Wife, I sent for Duaterra and consulted with him, and it was agreed that the Man who was said to have given Mrs Werrie the Nail should be sent for and if any improper act cod be proved against him he should be confined to the Vessel; a public investigation took place on the occasion in the presence of the Chiefs and many of the inhabitants upon the Beach where they dance and exercise. Mrs Werrie and the accused European were brought forward. She defended herself very warmly, but said she could not indentify [sic] the Man that had given her the Nail, but that she had received it as a present. After a long examination she was acquitted by the unanimous voice of the chiefs to the satisfaction of all parties, tho' I cod not but entertain my suspicions of the Lady's chastity from her hesitation to point out the person who had given her the nail. I took this oppertunity [sic] to assure them, that if any person belonging to the Active either insulted or injured them they shod be punished. After this business was closed Mr & Mrs Hall were landed and the remaining stores with them. On the following Morning Friday the 13th Mr & Mrs King also were landed and the Vessel Wooded and Watered ready for Sea. About 3 oClock we weighed and Sailed down the Harbour. I had Duaterra and Koro-Koro with 25 New Zealanders more as a guard. These were very fine young Men that cod be depended upon, many of them Sons of the principal Chiefs on both sides of the Harbour. It was my intention if the Wind permitted, first to Sail for Whangorooa as we had been invited by several of the inhabitants who had come to Ranghee Hoo since the people were established. At the same time I thought it prudent to take with me a sufficient number of Men in case any difference should happen either at Whangorooa, the River Thames or any other part of the Coast where we might touch. When we got to Sea the Wind was fair for Whangorooa towards which Harbour we directed our Course, but when we came near [f] to the Cavalles the Wind suddenly changed and compelled us to anchor between them and the Main about 5 Leagues to the Southward of Whangorooa; here we remained all night, soon after we anchored three Canoes came off from the Cavalles from different Islands, some of the people came on board and remained till after Sun down. When they were gone the Carpenter missed one of his Chisels with which he had been at work. Duaterra was very angery [sic] as we were convinced some of those Natives had taken it. The Boat was immediately manned with Duaterras Men, and armed and proceeded to one of the Islands. I requested Duaterra if he found the thief not to injure him but merely take the Chisel. In about one hour they returned and had not been able to find the thief having landed upon the wrong Island, and the night being dark the next morning Saturday the 14th at break of day a Canoe came off to enform [sic] us where the thief was, and wanted assistance to take him, but I thought it more prudent to let the matter drop, as it might detain the vessel, as we had then got up the Anchor intending to sail to Whangorooa with a light Breeze which had sprung up; However it soon became calm, and obliged us to anchor again. In the afternoon the wind blew pretty fresh, yet directly against us, & with a prospect of its continuance in that quarter which wod prevent us from entering the Harbour of Whangorooa, I determined to proceed to the River Thames for which we bore away immediately the Anchor was weighed: The same Evening we past the Mouth of the Bay of Islands with a gentle Breeze, which continued all night, and in the Morning were not far from the poor Knights some small Islands which lay a few leagues from the Main. About 10 oClock a Canoe was observed coming from the Main to the Active. Duaterra ordered all his Men under arms and directed them to lie down upon the Deck that they might not be seen when the Canoe came along side the Active; When the Canoe came up which contained only one old chief, three Men, and one Woman, a rope was thrown for them to secure the Canoe, the old chief immediately got upon the side of the vessel with an intention of coming upon Deck. [f] He had not observed the New Zealanders, who just as he was coming over the gang way sprung up, and some presented their muskets and others their spears which so alarmed him that he fell back into the Canoe and almost upset it and there he lay for some time before he recovered from his fright. The New Zealanders made a most dreadful noise at the time. The old chief afterwards came on board and was much rejoiced to see so many of his friends and laughed at the trick that had been practised upon him. After some conversation with him and having learned who we were and what we had in view, he took his leave with much satisfaction. We had not gone far before another Canoe came off from another part of the Coast, with a number of very fine young Men in it. They had learned where we were going as one of them had visited the Active before when she lay at Cowa-Cowa and requested I wod allow him to accompany us to the River Thames which request was granted. By this time we were near a very high part of the Coast called Bream Head by Captn Cook. The Chief of this district with his Son had visited the Active while we lay at Cowa Cowa. I had made him a present of a few things and amongst them a piece of red and white India print, and enformed him I intended to visit the River Thames. As soon as we had passed Bream Head the Wind blowing very fresh we observed 2 Canoes labouring hard to reach the Vessel. One of them had a signal flying. I desired the Master to bear away for them when we came up I found the Canoe with the Flag containing the Son of the above mentioned Chief, and his colors were the piece of print I had given his Father. He pressed us much to go on shore and visit his Father, but I told him we cod not stop there as the Wind was fair, but wod see him on our return. The young Man provided us with great abundance of Bream and other Fish which they had in their Canoes. After we had received this liberal supply of Fish we directed our course again towards the River [f] Thames and the same Evg passed point Rodney one of the Heads of the Harbour and saw Cape Cotrell [sic] the other head which is very high Land not much less than 20 leagues distant. On Monday the 16th at day light we found ourselves advanced pretty far up the Harbour in which there were several Islands both on the East and West sides. About 11 oClock we came opposite the residence of the head Chief Houpa of whom we had often heard and from these accounts were taught to believe that he was a Man much esteemed as well as feared, and possessed very great power. In a short time we observed a War Canoe full of Men advancing towards the Vessel. We hove to, when they came near they lay upon their Paddles, viewed the Active and enformed us that Houpa was in the Canoe. I requested him to come on board, which he did with one of his Sons. Houpa is one of the strongest and best made Men I almost ever beheld. He was greatly supprised [sic] to see such a number of New Zealanders on board, and so few Europeans. We had one chief in the Active named Timaranghee who was intimate with Houpa and who had lived on board the Active for some time. He enformed Houpa whom we were and that we had come to the River Thames (which they call Showrakee) to see him and his people, and also that some Europeans were settled at the Bay of Islands with a view of instructing the Natives. I made him a few presents, and in return he directed two fine Matts to be presented to me out of his Canoe; He expressed a wish for us to come to an anchor near his residence. I told him it was my intention to visit his place when we returned from the River, and as the Wind was now favorable, we wod take advantage of it and proceed. He directed us what course to stear, and told us we shod get the Vessel aground if we kept too much to the right hand. After holding conversation with several of the Natives on board he took his leave expecting to see us on our return & we made Sail for the mouth of the River. We were then on [f] the West side of the Harbour about 4 leagues from it. We had not left Houpa an hour before the Wind began to blow very hard and the Water so rough that we cod not see the Channel. On our coming almost to the Head of the Harbour it was high Water and Soundings only in 3 Fathom, which from the appearance of the Gale not abating induced us to put the Vessel about and so got us into deeper Water before the tide fell much. At this period we were on the East shore not far from Land. We worked to windward for several hours and in the Evening came to Anchor in 4 Fathoms Water where we lay all night, during which it rained and blew very hard. Here the Harbour is very open; there is no shelter for shipping which makes it very dangerous. On tuesday about 4 oflock [sic] Weighed Anchor as the gale encreased in order to work to Windward if possible and get under the Land, as the place we lay in was not safe shod the Vessel be driven from her Anchor. The sea was so rough and the vessel had so much motion, that the New Zealanders who had never been on board of a ship before at Sea, were much alarmed and imagined they wod be lost. About 6 oClock in the Evening the Gale abated and we came to Anchor again about 2 Miles from the West shore opposite a large Village. Tho' the inhabitants had seen us all day, yet they durst not venture out in their Canoes on account of the Gale. After we came to Anchor the Boat was hoisted out and 10 New Zealanders went on Shore to open communication with the Natives. Shortly after the Boat had reached the Beach we heard a great noise. Duaterra was uneasy as the Boat did not return so soon as was expected. He was afraid that some Quarrel had taken place between the inhabitants and the people in the Boat, and observed if they had injured any of his people he would immediately declare War against them with all the force he could command; In about an hour after dark the Boat returned safe and enformed us that they were very kindly received and that the noise we had heard was only their rejoicings. They told us there were plenty of fine Hogs and Potatoes on shore, both of which [f] we much wanted. As the Active was full of people this information determined me to visit the Village in the Morning. Early next Morning a Chief named Pithi Nephew to Haupa came off to the Active, he was a very stout handsome Man and quite in the prime of Life, with manners mild, & countenance both pleasing and interesting. I invited him on board. The Chief Timaranghee was well known to Pithi. After the usual salutations relative to our Voyage and all affairs connected with it as far as Timaranghee knew, I gave him some Biscuit which they are all fond of, shewed him some Wheat in the straw which had been grown at New Zealand by Shunghee, and enformed him, that the Biscuit was made from Wheat, and gave him a little for seed. He shewed much anxiety to learn the culture of Wheat, enquired how many Moons it was from sowing to reaping, and expressed his determination to try if he cod not grow some at his Settlement. I made him a present of a few articles and accompanyed by Mr Nicholas went on shore taking 12 New Zealanders with us. When we landed the Natives received us with every mark of Friendship. The Women and Children were numerous, but not so with the young Men. We enquired the reason and they told us they were gone to War, and that few excepting old Men and those who had been taken prisoners remained in the Village. At this place we found the New Zealanders to sell their Prisoners of War or to keep them to work as Slaves. Several of the Natives of the Bay of Islands had brought with them a little trade, some a few Nails, others small pieces of Iron hoops, some a few Feathers, and some had a few Fishing Hooks and a variety of articles of no value to Europeans, but of much value to themselves. The Village was all in motion, they crouded [sic] together like a fair from every quarter. Some of the Inhabitants brought Matts to sell and various other articles so that the whole day exhibited a busy scene, and many things bought and sold in their way. When the fair was over [f] the Ladies entertained us with several Dances and songs. One of them had a fine upper Garment, which a Chief from Ranghee-Hoo who had come with us wanted to procure for his Wife. He had brought a Box of Feathers (neatly dressed, the pithy part of the quill having been all cut off and only the external part remaining to which the Feather was attached made the Feathers wave gracefully with the smallest Breeze when placed in the Hair) and opened it in presence of the Ladies. Many of them wanted these Feathers, he on the other hand required the fine Garment. After placing very tastefully 2 or 3 Feathers in several of the Ladies Hair; She that had got this fine Garment when she beheld how elegant they appeared in the Heads of those who had them became extremely impatient for some. He asked her to sell her Garment, she stood hesitating for some time; at length he laid a certain number down at her feet. This temptation she cod not resist, but instantly threw it off and delivered it to him for the Feathers. The Chief on our return presented this precious ornament to his Wife, after which Mr Nicholas accompanyed me to Haupas fortified Village. It was situated on a very high Hill, almost a Mile from where we then were. It is in many respects similar to that already described belonging to Shunghee. Here we found no Men. It was left to the care of some Women and one of Haupas Wives. They told us the Men were gone to War. In this place there were some very fat Hogs and fine plantations of Potatoes. The Women declined selling the Hogs as they belonged to the Men who were gone to the War. Haupas Wife said she had a very large one belonging to herself which she wod make me a present of if I wod stop till it cod be got in. At that time it was out feeding. She sent the Servants to look for the Hog accompanyed by one of our people but they returned without it. I made her a present of a little print and some other trifles. She was very anxious we shod wait till the Pig could be found but we were unable conveniently to stay longer and therefore left this [f] romantic place. This Lady's Face, Arms, and breasts, were all covered with Scars which had lately been cut in consequence of the Death of one of the Haupas Children, She was a fine tall Woman. Haupa does not reside here at present, I observed the Pillars into the fortification were much carved with various figures, such as Mens heads &c. And some of them had round caps at their tops similar to Gate ways in many parts of England, and were about 14 feet high; shortly after we left Haupas Lady, we received a Message from Duaterra to enform us he was coming on shore for us. We met the Boat, and Duaterra landed, Pithe the Chief came at the same time, and wished us to go to the upper end of the Village where he resided, the distance was about 2 Miles along the shore, we agreed to visit him, and ordered the Boat to follow us, when we arrived we met with some of the finest Men and Women I had seen at New Zealand, and well dressed; they received us very cordially; There were 3 of Haupas Nephews and their Ladies who wore fine Matts fancifully wraught [sic], which came down from their Shoulders to their feet and had a very graceful appearance. I had taken a few pieces of print, some plane Irons, Nails &c with me of which I made the chiefs and their Ladies a few presents; We had a few Baskets of Potatoes dressed, and several Songs and Dances in which the Chiefs and their Ladies took an active part, and exerted all their strength and voices to amuse us; it was now about 5 oClock in the Evening. We therefore took our leave and returned on board the Active to Dinner. When we had sat down, I was enformed that two Canoes were coming off with the Chiefs and their Ladies, I went upon Deck to receive them and invited them to dine with us which they readily accepted. I told the chiefs I wanted some Potatoes & Hogs for the Vessel, but as the men had gone to War to whom they belonged, I cod not purchase any, and therefore it was my intention to sail that Evening for the Bay of Islands. They wanted me much to stay and told me to take whatever we wanted on shore regardless of what the people said. I told them I cod not steal or take by [f] force any thing from the inhabitants; I wod purchase what I could, but not take any thing unless I paid for it. They urged me much to stop and get my supplies which I wod have done if I had been sensible they cod be procured without giving offence to the Natives, but I was convinced they cod not (from what I had been told on shore) unless the Proprietors had been there: As soon as we had dined I desired the Master to prepare for Sea immediately. The Anchor was soon weighed, and the Vessel under weigh; The chiefs and their Ladies still remaining unwilling to leave us, they had several Dances on Deck. At length I got the Ladies into the Canoes, but the Chiefs showed no inclination to part and began another Dance when the Ladies once more leaped out of the Canoes upon Deck and joined them in the Dance and Song and continued till we had sailed a considerable distance, when they were compelled to leave us or go to Sea; when they got into the Canoes the 28 Natives I had on board began to Sing and Dance in their turn to amuse the Chiefs and their Ladies who lay upon their paddles all the time, as soon as the Dance ended on Deck, they began again in the Canoes, and continued till we cod hear them no more, they then waved their hands and returned on shore; One of the Chiefs promised to visit Port Jackson, and go to the Bay of Islands to see Duaterra from whom they had received and returned presents. During our short stay here, these people shewed us the kindest attention and did all they cod to amuse us, I gave several of them some Wheat Seed which I hope will prove advantageous to them, and told them, they would be able to procure Axes and other tools at Ranghee Hoo from the Europeans. They will give any thing for Axes. Duaterra with his Guard of armed Men (himself being dressed in European Clothing wearing a Sword by his side) when on shore commanded considerable respect from these chiefs. I trust our visit to the River Thames will unite in Friendship, the leading Men at Ranghee Hoo, and this part of New Zealand, and that if in future any European settlers shod be sent to the [f] River Thames, they will be welcomed by the Natives. I felt much gratified with the conduct of the people, but sincerely regretted I could not see Haupa again, the Wind was so strong against us, we could not make his Settlement, and were compelled to stand out at Sea; As my time in New Zealand was limited, I cod not wait for a change of Wind. The next Morning, Thursday the 19th we saw point Rodney about 7 leagues off, there being little Wind we did not reach it till 12 oClock when we entered Bream Cove, We sailed into the Cove and ran along shore a little distance from the land. The ground was in general level, and a Grove of pines appeared behind the Banks of the Cove. When we had reached near Bream Head, the Natives told us there was an Harbour at the Head of the Cove into which a fresh Water river Ran from the interior. We sailed up to the Mouth of this Harbour. The Master of the Active Mr Hansen said it would be a very safe place for a Vessel to lie in, as the Situation completely sheltered her from the Sea. We enquired if any Vessel had ever been in this Harbour, the Natives told us, that the Venus from port Jackson a long time ago anchored there some time. They further enformed us that the Venus had put in at the North Cape and took two Native Women from there, one from the Bay of Islands, one from a small Island opposite to Bream Cove, and one from Bream Cove, and from thence she went to the River Thames where they got Houpa and one of his Daughters on board with an intention to take them away also, but when the Venus sailed from the River Thames Haupa's Canoe following the Venus, he watched an oppertunity and leaped overboard and was taken up by his Canoe, but that none of the above Women have ever since returned. The Venus was a Brig belonging to Messrs Cambell [sic] & Co of Calcutta, and was taken by some Convicts who were on Board of her at Port Dalrymple and made off with her. Such [f] are the horrid crimes that Europeans who bear the Christian Name commit upon the Savage Nations! We lay to all night in Bream Cove, as I wished to see the Chief who resided near here, and whose Son supplied us with fish as we past when bound for the River Thames; We now began to fish and in a short time got great abundance of Bream & other sorts. I expected to have seen the Chief, but the Vessel had not been observed, the next Morning at day light we sailed and shortly after passing Bream Head, we were seen from the shore, when a Canoe put off to the Active.— As soon as it came along side, I observed the Chief was in it, whom I wished to see, he told us, that he had not seen the Vessel the night before as he and his Men were busy at work in their Potato Grounds which had prevented them. Mayhanger a young Man who is mentioned in Mr Savages account of New Zealand, and who accompanyed that Gentleman to England on his return from New South Wales to Europe, was also along with this Chief. Mayhanger enquired after many persons he had seen in England, and who had been kind to him; the Chief wished us much to return for one day, told me he had abundance of Hogs and Potatoes, and would supply all our wants: I told him I cod not detain the Vessel if the Wind was fair, but must proceed. I gave him a little Wheat for Seed, some nails, and a Cat; with which they returned on shore highly pleased, regretting only, that I cod not stop one day for him to make me some return. Shortly after they were gone the Wind changed and continued against us all day. At 6 P.M. we were about 2 leagues from shore; the Sea being smooth and likely for a fine night, I determined to visit the Chief and had the Boat immediately hoisted out. Mr Nicholas accompanyed me; we had none but New Zealanders in the Boat. The Sun was set before we reached the shore. The Natives soon beheld the Boat, and one of them stood upon a Rock waiving [sic] a Signal pointing out where we were to Land. There is a bar running across the Mouth of this Harbour, upon which the Sea breaks with great violence. As we approached, it appeared impossible to us [f] the Boat cod pass thro the surf. Two Canoes came dashing thro' the Waves (as if they bid defiance to the distructive Rocks and foaming billows that rolled over them with a dreadful noise) to direct us where it wod be safe for the Boat to land.— On our Boat reaching the Shore, a number of Natives rushed thro' the surf, laid hold of it, and conducted us safe in. The Chief's residence was on the East side of the Harbour, but we were compelled to Land on the West on account of the surf, and crossed the Water again in a Canoe. The whole place was surrounded with broken Rocks which resembled more the Ruins of old Abbey's than any thing else, some formed very large Arches, others deep Caverns; Some were like old Steeples, and others like broken Massy Columns. In short, they presented the most curious Group of ruins which I had ever seen formed by time, Storms or Seas. A numerous croud of Men, Women, and Children came to meet us. The Chief and Mayhanger were overjoyed at our visit, the Chief who had been on board was the General Officer, or one whom the New Zealanders call the fighting Man, still we found there was another higher in authority than our Friend, to whom we were conducted. He was seated on the ground, and a clean Matt was placed by him, for me and Mr Nicholas; The General stood all the time with a spear in his Hand. The head Chief was a very old Man, with a long gray beard, and little hair upon his head. He was an exceeding pleasant Man— Koro-Koro had gone with us, he related to the Chief, all the wonders he had seen at Port Jackson, The attention paid to him, The riches of our Country, And for what purpose the Active had come to New Zealand. The old Chief laughed much, and made many enquiries, and wanted us to stay till next day. He ordered us some pork & gave a few Baskets of dried Fish for the people, we stopt still about 11 oClock when we took our leave, having enjoyed a very pleasant Evening. They conducted us safely thro' the Surf and we made for the Vessel. At this time she was out of sight, so that we cod not even hear the report of the Muskets, which served as signals, tho' we observed the Flash of the powder which [f] directing us to the Vessel we got safe on Board, when the Breeze springing up we made Sail and the next Morning discovered Cape Bret in sight. As we sailed along the Coast we were visited by 10 Canoes which brought us plenty of fish; About 3 oClock P.M. we anchored in the Cove and found all the Settlement well and assuming the pleasing appearance of civilization from the Buildings erecting, and erected; and from the Sawyers, Smith, and others at work. Having now completed every thing relative to the Establishment of the Mission that appeared to me necessary as regarded the intercourse of the Settlers with the Natives, I [sic] opened a communication nearly 200 Miles along the Coast, and the Chiefs in all the different districts were acquainted with the object in view, and they seemed all sensible of the benefits which they were likely to derive from the Europeans residing amongst them. A more promising prospect never cod present itself for Civilizing this quarter of the Globe, only it requires to be closely followed up; as considerable expences have already been incurred in the purchase of the Active, the Outfit, Naval Stores, and Seamen's Wages, I felt it incumbent on me to do all in my power to find out some mode by which these expences could in some measure be provided for; I determined to take all the dressed flax I cod procure from the Natives to Port Jackson, and to fill the Vessel with Timber. Whether the Flax will answer as an Article of commerce or no is not yet fully determined. Timber will certainly answer to a certain amount, but will not defray the whole of the Expences of the Vessel. Should Flax answer, it is probable they will both nearly accomplish this in time. The material difficulty I had to contend with was the means of procuring a Cargo, my trade being nearly exausted [sic] in purchasing provisions and in presents to the Natives. The New Zealanders will work if they are paid for it, but not otherwise, and to procure a Cargo of Timber without their assistance was impossible. Raft ports were cut in the Vessel, and she was got ready for receiving the Timber, and in little more than a Week we sailed to Cowa Cowa the Timber District. I had very little Trade which [f] caused some little delay, the Smith not being able to make what was wanted fast enough; Several Chiefs engaged to supply a given number of Spars. They required me to go with them and point out such Trees as I required to be cut down, which I did; and in little more than a fortnight we had our Cargo on board, I found them all act with the strictest honesty in their dealings and some of them trusted me till the Smith made the Axes for payment. We had no differences during the whole time we lay at the River, nor means of protecting ourselves against such numbers as are in these districts, but were wholly in the power of the Natives. I put no restraint upon them, but suffered them to come at any time, and in any Number to the Vessel, Sabbath days excepted when we had divine service. A number of Chiefs lived constantly on board, and many of their Servants. We had only 2 small thefts committed while the Vessel lay in the Harbour, One of the Chiefs detected a common Man with about 2 pound of Iron, and brought him to me. The Chief was in a violent rage with him; I ordered the Man to be confined in the hold till Terra the Head Chief came on board, when he arrived he was enformed what the Man had done, Terra desired the thief might be brought upon Deck; Upon his approaching, he made a blow at him with a billet of wood, and would have put him to Death immediately, if I had not interfered to save his life, by getting him out of the Active into a Canoe. He ordered him to quit his dominions and return no more. I afterwards lost 2 Razors. The Chiefs on my mentioning this circumstance were much concerned, and told me, they hoped I did not suspect either of them guilty of such a crime: as certainly no Chief wod steal. They observed I had been too indulgent in allowing their servants to come on board, who could not be trusted; they assured me that if ever they found out the thief at any distant period, he shod suffer Death. They also presented me with a very valuable Matt, one of the finest I had seen as a compensation for my loss, observing while I remained in their districts, I should not suffer any loss, that they could remedy. They were all very much hurt at this theft, and one of them sat upon Deck two Days and Nights and would not come into the Cabin to eat from [f] vexation, and said he was ashamed of such conduct. Theft & adultry [sic] are crimes they punish with Death. On passing up the River Cowa-Cowa I observed on the summit of a very high Hill a Roman Cross, and enquired of the natives what it was for, they replied to hang thieves upon, whom they first killed and then hang up their Bodies till time destroyed them. During our stay at Cowa-Cowa I had many interesting conversations with the Chiefs relative to the nature of Crimes and punishments and pointed out to them, that there was no comparison between a Man who wod steal a potatoe and another who committed murder, and yet their punishment was the same. They'll as soon kill a Man for stealing potatoes, as for Murder. A Chief has the power of Life and Death over his people. They appeared much astonished when I told them, that King George had not the power to put any Man to death, tho' a much greater King than any in New Zealand, I explained to them the nature of a British Jury, told them, that no man could be put to Death in England unless twelve Gentlemen had examined into the Case of a prisioner [sic] who was accused of any crime, and if these twelve Gentlemen declared him not guilty King George had no power to put him to Death, but if on the contrary they pronounced him Guilty, even then King George had the authority to pardon him if it was his Royal wish. They replied these laws were very good, And one of them asked what Governor we should send them, I replied we had no intention of sending them any but wished them to govern themselves, I mentioned some crimes which we punished with Death! and others with banishment, and that punishments should be regulated at all times by the nature of the offence; I told them if a Man had 2 Wives in England, tho' he was a Gentleman yet he wod be banished his Country, One of the Chiefs said he was of opinion, that it was better to have only one Wife, for where there were many, the Women always quarrelled. Others said, that their Wives made the best Overseers and, that they could not get their [f] grounds Cultivated but for the industry of their Wives, and for that reason only they thought more Wives than one was good policy; These Conversations sometime passed when the Women were present, and they generally were of opinion that a Man should have not more than one Wife. Some of the Chiefs held there were too many Kings in New Zealand, and that if they were fewer they wod have less Wars and live more happy. I told them there was only one King in England, At the same time there were more Gentlemen than in New Zealand, but none of these Gentlemen dared put a Man to Death without forfeiting his own Life for it, nor declare War one against another without King Georges sanction. On this account there were no fightings and murdering one another in England, as there were among them. I had a young Man a Native of New Zealand belonging to the Vessel who had lived some years at Port Jackson, a very good interpreter, who generally attended me to explain any thing which the Natives cod not clearly understand, with his assistance I gained any information I wished relative to the Islands, and Inhabitants of New Zealand, and was enabled to communicate to them much useful knowledge while I was amongst them. As our conversation generally touched upon religion, civil Government, Agriculture, or Commerce, they always shewed an anxiety for information relative to other parts of the Globe. Shortly after our arrival at Cowa Cowa a Chief named Weerea came on board the Active to request me to visit his Settlement, I promised I wod as soon as I cod leave the Vessel. This Village is situated on the banks of a small fresh Water River, called Wycaddee, about 12 Miles from where we lay at the head of one of the Coves. The Village takes its name from the River. Having now completed our Cargo, I enformed Weerea I would accompany him to see his people. The next Morning his Canoe was got ready, and we set off for Wycaddee, and was joined by another Canoe, which had in it a Cock and a Hen. I was supprized to see these Fowls and enquired where they came from, and was enformed, they belonged to the head [f] Chief Terra who had sent them into the Country for the following reason. Terra had built a new Hut for some sacred purpose which he had tabooed. He had forbidden the Cock from getting upon its roof but in vain. No means that he could devise would prevent him. And therefore, he had sent them both away for polluting this consecrated building! These Fowls had been given to Terra when the Active was first at New Zealand. While we lay at Cowa Cowa Terra and his Wife had mentioned this Cock and Hen, and enformed me, the Hen had a number of Eggs upon which she sat some time, at length she and the Cock broke the shells, and destroyed them all. They told me they went every Day to view the Eggs while the Hen was sitting, and desired to know the reason why the Fowls destroyed them. I told them, that the Hen had Tabooed the Eggs and was exceeding angry with them for touching them; and on that account she and the Cock in their rage destroyed the whole. They were much astonished at hearing this and had a long conversation on the subject, and made numerous enquiries relative to the rearing of Fowls. I told them they were on no account in future to touch the Eggs, if they did the Hen would again destroy them when she was setting, and I have no doubt but they will rigidly adhere to my advice. Having been accidently [sic] led by the Fowls in the Canoe to make this digression, I shall now go back from whence I set out. The two Canoes went in Company for about 3 Miles when we put into a small Village upon the East side of the Harbour to see some of Weereas friends. While we were here it came on to rain very much. After stopping about 2 hours, during which many Baskets of Potatoes were dressed, we set off for Wycaddee; The rain fell very heavy. I was soon wet thro', both to my Great Coat and other Clothing. The Wind and tide were against us, and the fresh Water River had risen in consequence of some late heavy rain, so that we made little progress. When we had gone about 4 Miles further we came to another little Village on [f] the West side of the Harbour. The Chief came to invite us on shore, but this I declined as I was as wet as if I had been in the River.— The Chief notwithstanding the heavy rain waded off to our Canoe, as he wished to know what was going on, And Weerea had much news to tell him which he had learned on board the Active.— He pressed us much to take some refreshment with him, but I was too Cold and wet to leave the Canoe. When taking his leave Weerea said to me "This Chief is a great King give him a Nail." I complied with his request and gave him a few nails, and he returned on shore highly delighted with his present. We proceeded to Wycaddee, but the higher we got up the River the Stronger the stream ran against us, so that at length the Men cod not stem the current with their Paddles, but were compelled to go close in shore and get out of the Canoe and drag it along— and with all their exertions they could not reach the Village. A little after dark we landed in order to walk up, being about one Mile from the Village, the rain still continuing we had to walk thro’ some low swampy ground which was in many places overflowed with Water. I followed my guides sometimes up to my knees in Mud, and sometimes in deep Water holes; as the night was dark we could not see to pick our way. At length I discovered a light like the twinkling of a Star, appearing and disappearing at short intervals, which was a signal that the Village was near; there only appeared one light which upon enquiry proved to be the Chiefs residence— Weerea was a little behind at this time, I was walking along with one of his Officers; Before we entered the Village the Officer that was with me called aloud to the inhabitants and enformed them I was coming, Many of these people had visited the Active. I made for where I had seen the light in order to get some shelter from the rain, and as soon as I came up to the Hut I crept into it through a small [f] Door about 2 feet 10 Inches in height. I found a number of Women and Children and a few Servants belonging to Weerea. There was about a handful of fire in the Centre of the Hut made of a few small Sticks round which the little Children all naked were reposing. Sometimes the little fire blazed for a moment, and then went out. The Hut was more full of smoke than a Chimney, as there was no vent for it to get out but thro' the small Door already mentioned. This strange Group of Natives were all rejoiced to see me. I took off the whole of my Clothes being excessively cold and wet. The Children ran out to collect some fire wood; Weerea brought me two clean matts to wrap myself in as Bed Clothing, and a log of Wood for a Pillow; the Women and Children were busy in recruiting the Fire and drying my Cloths. I found the smoke very offensive, but I thought it more prudent to put up with this inconvenience than undergo the risque of catching cold by sleeping in a Hut where there was no Fire. Weerea told me he could not remain in the Hut on account of the Smoke and as I would not leave it, he retired into another by himself, and left me with my present Company who entertained me a great part of the night with talking about their Chief and his concerns. The Children and Women were very kind and attentive, and did all they cod to make my situation agreeable. When they sleep they lay upon the Ground have little covering and some of them none. A Tree was laid in the Centre of the Hut which ran the whole length being about 30 feet, and the Natives lay on each side of the Tree with their heads reclined upon it. At this time I had no Europeans with me nor any others but Weereas people. My object was to gain as clear a knowledge of the Characters of these Islanders as possible [f] while I was in their Country which knowledge cod not be acquired without sacrificing for a time the comforts and conveniences of Civil Life. I was under no apprehensions for my personal safety, as I had never met with the smallest insult from one of them. About midnight Weerea came to the Hut and enformed me one of his Wives was very ill and a little Child, and that he was afraid she would die, and requested I would pray with her in the Morning which I promised to do. He appeared much concerned about this Woman. I had heard a person Mourning [sic] very much for some time as if extremely weak, and in infinite pain: and a young child cry occasionally; Early in the Morning I arose and visited the poor Woman, I found her lying with a little Child about 3 Days old exposed to the open air, and a few reeds put up (on the side which the Rain and Wind beat against) for shelter, here she had been exposed all night notwithstanding the Storm, She looked very ghastly and as if Death was near, I talked to her for some time, she cod scarcely speak but smile feebly and seemed pleased with my attention to her. I kneeled down beside her, along with Weerea and some of his people, and offered up my supplications to the Father of Mercies in her behalf. She well understood the meaning of prayer tho' not my language, as the New Zealanders consider all their afflictions to come from some superior being whom they are much accustomed to address in time of trouble. The poor Woman wanting nourishment, I presented her with a piece of Biscuit, and she gave me to understand that she was forbid to eat any thing but Potatoes, I spoke to Weerea who told me God would be angery [sic] if she eat the Biscuit; he took it and repeating many Petitions over it, placed it under her head, and told me the presence of God was now in the Biscuit, but his Wife must not eat it. I lamented that the poor Woman had been in the open air all night which was enough to occasion her Death, and learned it was the prevailing custom [f] amongst the New Zealanders when a person was sick to carry them out of their Huts and lay them in the open air lest the Huts should be defiled; These people neither eat nor drink in their Houses, but always in the open air, for the above reason. I could not discover that the New Zealanders had any Graven Images or likenesses of any heathen Deities as other uncivilized nations have, but they consider their God as an intelligent spirit or shadow (for when I enquired of one of them what God was like they told me he was an immortal shadow) yet they suffer much in times of sickness from their superstitions in being compelled to lie in the open air, and refuse sometimes for days either food or Water under the impression that if either is administered to the sick they will surely die. I had often previous to my present visit to Wycaddee been struck with the weakly and aged appearance of young Women who had borne children and attribute this to the colds and complaints which they catch during their confinement. In passing thro' the Village I saw a little naked child laying upon the ground and a number of people present. A Chief enformed me it was his Child and was 2 days old. He pointed out the Mother who was walking about. She very probably would have been lying there too if she had been sick. The Child appeared very well. I mention this as a proof that both Women and Children at those times of danger are exposed to sufferings unknown to civil Society. A small distance from where Weereas sick [wife] was laying, there was a little Hut and a stage erected in it. Weerea took me to it and told me his Father had been slain in Battle and that his Body was wrapped up and placed upon the Stage where it wod remain till the bones mouldered away. I cod not observe any part of the Body as the covering had been drawn up in a round form and not streched [sic] out like our dead. The chiefs in New Zealand when they die are generally placed upon a stage in some sacred Grove, several of which I saw. The natives [f] do not like to visit the place of their departed Friends, and have generally some frightful Image erected near the spot to terrify all who approac[h]ed near the repository of their dead. I was much supprized that Weerea had his Father so near him and in the centre of the Village. This Village is situated in the centre of a rich Valley, the land very good, and fit for cultivation. I here observed many noble pines. Weerea urged me much to send some Europeans to reside at Wycaddee. He pointed out the spot where their Houses should be Built upon the richest Banks of the River and set forth the advantages they might derive from the richness of the soil for Potatoes and its vicinity to the Water. I told him in time his wishes might be complied with, but we must see how the Inhabitants of New Zealand conducted themselves towards the Europeans at Ranghee Hoo. If they were treated well more should be sent. He wished then to accompany me to Port Jackson; I told him the number I had already agreed to take were as many as the Active could hold, but I would give directions for a passage at a future time shod he be inclined to visit me, with this he was satisfied and said he would come. I then told him as the Vessel wod leave Cowa Cowa that Day I must request him to order me a Canoe that I might return. He replied he cod not suffer me to depart till he had presented me with 2 or 3 Hogs. He immediately threw off the whole of his Clothing, took a Dog and a Boy to the River, plunged into it with them, and swam across holding them above water with the [one] hand, and swimming with the other; when he landed he ran off into the forest like a Lion, the Boy and Dog following and returned in a little time with three Hogs which were put into the Canoe and all was got ready for my return, he made me a present of some Matts at the same time, and told me he wod accompany me to the Vessel. When I had got into the Canoe, he put in one of his Sons a fine Boy about 9 years old, I asked him what he was about to do with his Boy, he told me he intended to take him to Ranghee Hoo to live with [f] Mr Kendall in order that he might instruct him. I answered Mr Kendalls House was not ready yet, or he should go, but as soon as it was, and Mr Kendall could accommodate him, I wod speak to Mr Kendall and was sure he wod receive him, with this he was satisfied.— It may not be improper here to notice a conversation I had with the two Chiefs Tupee and Timmarangha sometime after this relative to Mr Kendall's school, he had already begun to teach the Children, and had taken into the School 2 fine Boys, the Sons of a common Man at Ranghee Hoo, these chiefs told me it was of no use to teach the Children of the common people, that they had no Lands or Servants and wod never rise higher in rank than their parents, but that it wod be very good to instruct the Sons of Chiefs. From what I cod learn there appears to be no middle class of people in New Zealand, but that they are all either Chiefs or in a certain degree Slaves. At the same time the Chiefs neither give their commands with that authority indiscriminately to their people as a body like Masters do to their Servants in civil Society, nor do their dependants feel themselves bound to obey them. It is true they have the power over any of their people to put them to death for theft, but as the Chiefs have no means of remunerating the services of their dependants, there being [no] reciprocal compacts between them as Master and Servant, they cannot command them as a body to labour in their grounds &c. In time of War & common danger they can command them to put themselves under their authority which they are compelled to do. And the inferior Chiefs are also obliged to attend upon their superiors with their people in the Field of Battle; the Chiefs have domestics to dress their provisions, attend them in their Canoes, cultivate their land or any other menial Services; and all such are wholly under their authority. I then took my leave of his people and returned to the Active which had got under way, but was obliged to anchor again, the tide running so strong she cod not stem it with the light Wind she had. When I arrived some of the Chiefs enformed me, that [f] the Jefferson Whaler had come in and was Anchored in the Cove near Terras Village, and that there had been a serious difference between the people on Board and the Chief Terra whom they had threatened to shoot, they further stated, that if any injury happened to Terra the Jefferson would be cut off and her people killed, and entreated me to go down and know the cause of the quarrel. I was much concerned to hear this account and told them I wod repair on Board the Jefferson, and if any injury had befallen Terra the person who had done it shod be brought on board the Active and taken to Port Jackson where he should be punished by Governor McQuarrie. I took the largest Carpenters axe we had in the Vessel as a present to Terra knowing that nothing would be more acceptable to him, and set off in a Canoe for his Village. I found him at home, and on presenting the Axe told him what I had heard. He stated that he had been on board the Jefferson, and that a Pistol was pointed at his Breast threatening to shoot him. I desired him to accompany me and point out the person who had insulted him. He ordered his Canoe and went followed by his brother and another Chief. When he arrived on board he marked out the person that threatened to shoot him, and stated the cause of their differing, but as the matter was at length settled to the satisfaction of the Chief and his Friends, it is not necessary to say more, only, that it appeared to me, that the Europeans were utterly to blame. I remained on board the Jefferson all night, and in the Morning while walking the quarter Deck in company with the Second Mate, I saw one of the Chiefs in a dreadful rage, and Tupee, Terras Brother pointing up to the Mast head, at the same time making signs to some of the Natives as if he wanted them to hang some person up; I immediately went with the Mate and enquired the cause of the uproar. The Chief who was so angery [sic] pointed to a young Man with a sword in his hand, and said he had struct [sic] his Wife several times with it, and when he forbad him, he made several stabs at him. I urged him to be composed, and the [f] Man sho’d be punished if he had done wrong. I then addressed the young Man with the Sword, who was very insolent when I spoke to him and used extreme bad language to me and his Officer, and refused to become reconciled to the Chief, tho' neither he nor his Wife had given the smallest offence. I told the Chief I should represent his conduct to Govr. McQuarrie and that Mr Kendall who was appointed by Gr McQuarrie to hear their complaints against the Europeans should be sent for and he would commit them to paper, and I would take them to Port Jackson, which was done. They attended the examination when the young Man was brought before Mr Kendall as a Magestrate [sic], and were perfectly satisfied with what was done. I also enquired of Tupee what he was pointing to the Mast head for at the time of the disturbance. He said he was recommending to his Countrymen not to injure any person on board, but the Man who had struct [sic] the Chief and his Wife with the sword, and to hang him up at the Mast head. Masters of Vessels should be very particular and not place a Sword in the hands of a young thoughtless wicked Sailor, and more especially, when among Savage Nations.— The number of Natives then on board and along side the Jefferson when this affair transpired, could have taken her in one moment. The Natives should be prohibited altogether (with the exception of the Chief of the district) from coming on board, and care shod be taken while they are on board, not to insult any of them, previous to this period I had frequent conversations with the Chiefs relative to the loss of the Boyd and pointed out to them the injustice of putting to Death the innocent with the guilty, as the people of Whangoora [sic] had done in this instance; they readily admitted that the guilty alone ought to suffer, and what pleased me more was to find, that Tupee was strongly impressing upon the Minds of the Natives the same idea & directing them not to injure any person on board the Jefferson [f] but the Man who had given the offence. All differences being now settled I waited for the Actives arriving which soon appeared in sight and anchored not far from the Jefferson, where we intended to take in our Water and then proceed to the Settlement of Ranghee Hoo. While the Active was taking in her Cargo at Cowa Cowa, a number of Native Women came on board every day. I told them I would not allow any of them to remain on board at night unless with their Husbands. Every Evening the Vessel was searched and if any Women without Husbands were found, they were sent on Shore sometimes not very well pleased. During my stay on board the Jefferson I saw many of my old acquaintances; they laughed and told me they were not on board the Active now, and that the Jefferson was not Tabooed, that when the Evening came in that Ship there was no "ine auta" literally [sic] meaning there was no command to be off. I replied I was very displeased with the Master and Crew for suffering them to stay all night in the Vessel, and that they were all very bad Men, they smiled and expressed their confidence that they would not be molested. The next day I accompanyed Mr Kendall to Ranghee Hoo in the Jefferson's Whale Boat, where I found Duaterra dangerously ill, this was a very distressing circumstance to me, I called to see him but the superstition of the Natives would not permit me. His people had fixed a Guard about him, and wod suffer no person to approach, he was so very ill that they expected him to die in a short time, I entreated them time after time for 2 or 3 Days together to admit me to see him, but they had tabooed the enclosure in which he was laid and dared not admit any person in to him. I was very much mortified and understood that he was to have nothing to eat or drink for five Days. I went again to the people that attended him, they would only speak to me thro' the fence and still refused me admittance, I then told them I wod bring the Active near the Town and blow it up [f] if they would not admit me in; They said if I thought proper I might and finding I could neither persuade them by any entreaties nor intimidate them by threats, I went to the Chief a Nephew of Tippahees who possessed the greatest influence and principal authority in the place, and told him how I had been refused admittance to see Duaterra for several days, and that Duaterra had neither Wine, Tea, Sugar, Rice or Bread, all which he had been used to, and that if he did not get these nourishments he would die, I further told him, that I was determined to fire the big Guns belonging to the Active on the Town as soon as I went on board. He expressed his concern that they would not allow me to see him, and desired me to go with him and see what could be done. When he approached near the enclosure he seemed much alarmed, walked very slowly and Whispered as if he expected some divine Judgment to come upon him, he made signs to some of the attendants who spoke to him through the fence and pointed out to them what distruction these Guns would make in the Town, and that there was no guarding against them, as they could not be seen. After several consultations with those along with Duaterra and the Messengers who came to the Chief, permission was granted for my admission. When I entered the enclosure I found Duaterra lying on his back facing the Sun which was immensely hot in a very high fever; His tongue very foul and complained of violent pains in his Bowels and from every appearance was not likely to survive long. I found 2 of his Wives with him, his Father in Law, the priest, and several attendants, he was much pleased I had come to see him; I asked him if he had any thing to eat or drink, he replied he had not excepting potatoes, & Water, I told him whatever he wanted he should have, and ordered him a supply of tea, Sugar, rice, & wine; He expressed his gratitude. I ordered some Wine and Water to be got for him as soon as possible part, of which he took. He also [f] ate some rice and took some tea and seemed a little revived. It was his intention to have laid out a New Town with regular Streets to be built after the European mode, in which, ground was to be set apart for a church. I had gone to examine it before. The situation was delightful, on a rising Hill in front of the Harbour Mouth distant about 8 Miles, commanding all the Harbour. He again mentioned his intention to me and hoped he should be better so as to have the Town marked out before I sailed. I told him I should be ready to attend him and hoped to see him recover and recommended him to take what nourishment he could. From this they gave me permission to see him at all times. I called the following day and found he spoke much better and entertained hopes of his recovery. The day after I called he appeared worse nevertheless supplied with all the necessaries he cod wish from Messrs Kendall Hall and King who willingly offered to do all they cod for him. Whatever Vessels were taken with refreshments for Duaterra, we were obliged to leave them; they said if they were removed Duaterra wod die; He was himself also of this opinion. So strongly rooted is superstition in the human Mind when once admitted. I had met with every thing in New Zealand to my full satisfaction, and nothing to give me pain but the present affliction of Duaterra, which was to me very distressing as upon the wisdom, zeal, industry, and influence of this servicable [sic] Man I calculated upon many advantages to New Zealand; My hopes were now likely to be blighted as I could entertain little expectation of his restoration. I know infinite wisdom cannot err. What the Great Head of the Church ordains to be done will in the end be best, but as David mourned for Abner I shall long mourn for Duaterra shod he be carried off by Death; for as a great Man fell in Isreal [sic] when Abner did [sic], so will a great man fall in New Zealand shod Duaterra not survive his present affliction. So far as natural causes can be [f] considered to operate, I attribute Duaterra's sickness to our [sic] exertions; He was a Man of great Bodily strength with a very active comprehensive Mind and on his return to New Zealand he exerted himself day and night to carry the plans he had formed into Execution. His grand object was agriculture; He calculated in two years he should be able to raise sufficient Wheat for all his people, and to supply other chiefs with seed, and in a short time to export some to port Jackson in exchange for Iron, and such other Articles as he might want. With this view he had visited his different lands for near 40 Miles distant from Ranghee Hoo, and laid out the grounds he intended to clear and cultivate, and marked out the work for his Men having first enquired of me how much ground a Man broke up pr Day at Port Jackson. He was seldom at home, but constantly at his Farms, excepting when he went with me to the River Thames. Under all these circumstances I fear he will be a great loss to his Country. One consolation he has bequeathed to them, however, that is of having introduced agriculture and paved the way for the civilization of his Countrymen. When he came to New South Wales last August in the Active, he brought his half Brother with him and left him with me desiring he might be instructed in useful knowledge, he is now about 16 years of age and a very fine intelligent youth, and exceeding well disposed and truly industerous [sic]. This youth is next in authority and will succeed Duaterra in his Estates, I intend him to remain till he speaks the English language, and gains a knowledge of agriculture. He's every day at work either as a Carpenter, or Farmer and I entertain hopes in the event of Duaterras quitting this mortal Life, that he will soon be able to fill his place. I have also a person instructing him to read a little before he returns. I trust in all these mysterious dispensations divine goodness is preparing a way for these poor Heathens to be brought into the [f] Church of Christ, and that if one instrument fails another will be provided whereby we may always say with Abraham in the day of trouble "God will provide himself a lamb for a burnt offering". On friday the 24th of Feby the Active was ready for sea. Duaterra still continuing apparently in a dying state, and my time being limited by Governor McQuarries orders I could not remain to see the event of his sickness. I was happy in the consideration that those I left behind would cheerfully administer to all his wants, and wod do every thing in their power to restore him to health, as they were all very kind to him and anxious for his preservation. I had given permission for 10 New Zealanders to accompany me to port Jackson 8 of whom were chiefs, or sons of Chiefs, and two Servants. They were all embarked on Friday, and their Friends assembled from every quarter to take their leave of them. Before my final departure from New Zealand I wished to obtain and secure as far as possible a legal settlement for the Europeans I had left upon the Island; for this purpose application was made to the two Nephews of the late Tippahee who were proprietors of the ground which the Europeans at present possess (and the adjoining Town of Ranghee Hoo) to know if they would sell that piece of Land upon which we had begun to build, & encrease the quantity at first marked out for the Buildings, from our having no legal claim to it. These 2 chiefs readily complied with our request. They were related to Duaterra. I went along with them and the Settlers to point out the boundaries of the Land they were willing to dispose of, and purchased it on account of the Church Missionary Society, we could not ascertain the exact quantity for want of proper measuring Instruments, but as it is situated between some natural boundaries expressed in the grant I considered that of no moment: at least, I [f] apprehend it to contain more than 200 Acres. One side bounded by the Harbour. The grant was made out and Executed on Friday the 24th of Feby in the presence of a number of Chiefs from different districts who were assembled at Ranghee Hoo, to take their leave of the Active, and publicly set apart for the Europeans. I took this oppertunity [sic] of expressing to the Chiefs that as the land was now belonging to the Europeans they were all at full liberty to come from any part of New Zealand for things they might want to purchase, or have manufactured without interruption. I further told them, the Smith should make them axes or Hoes or any other tools they might stand in need of but, that he was on no account to repair Pistols, or Muskets, or make any Warlike Instruments, not even for the greatest chief upon the Island. Ahoodea O Gunna one of the Chiefs of whom I had purchased the Land publicly declared, that the Land was no longer their's, but the sole property of the white people, and was tabooed for their use.—The signature of the Grant or Deed contains all the Curres [sic] and lines which are tatooed on the Chiefs face and their singular & curious drawings or figures.— Three days previous to this interval Mrs King was delivered of a fine Boy who was brought out and publicly baptized at the same time the Deed was Executed upon this newly purchased Land. All these circumstances at such a juncture were very interesting to us and will be long remembered by the natives. The price paid for the Land was twelve Axes. Ahoodea O Gunner was a very sensible Man and extremely partial to the Europeans, he is the Chief Man in Ranghee Hoo where the Settlers reside. It is the largest and most populous Town we met with containing upwards of 200 Huts. Mrs OGunna Wife of the Chief is also a pleasant Woman, and had greatly improved in her appearance & Cleanliness [f] before we came away, and devoted much of her time in assisting the European Women in any thing she cod do. Ahoodea OGunner requested I would send him a suit of Cloths to wear on the Sabbath as he did not like to attend divine service in his Native dress thinking it improper, which I promised to do: In fine, having finally arranged and settled every concern relating to the Establishment of the Settlement at Ranghee Hoo: I embarked accompanyed by Mr Nicholas and on Saturday Morning the 25th we weighed Anchor and sailed; Many chiefs came on Board to accompany us down the Harbour which brought on much weeping and lamentation, Messrs Kendall, Hall, and King, were on board. The Chiefs spoke very kindly and declared if Duaterra died they would protect the Europeans and none should injure them. Many solicited to go with me to Port Jackson, whom I was obliged to refuse, partly because we had no room, and partly on account of the heavy expence of maintaining them on their passage to and from New Zealand, and while the Vessel lay at Port Jackson. I told them I would at all times permit a few to have a passage, but that shod be in turns which satisfied them. The head Chiefs Wife wept much and cut her face, Arms & Breasts with shells, till the blood streamed down, she told me she would neither eat nor drink any thing for 5 Days & nights, but would sit down in her Hut and sleep praying for us all the whole time. She is a very intelligent young Woman, can speak a little English, and is very partial to the Europeans. Both she and her Husband, Terra, were very urgent for me to send over two or 3 Europeans to live with them, and it is my intention to send a married couple when the Active returns if I have favorable accounts from the Settlers, and can meet with suitable persons. We [f] sailed down the Harbour near the heads, when the Canoes returned with our weeping Friends, but were obliged to come to anchor again till the tide turned, and while we lay there was visited by a chief from the River Thames who had just arrived. About 12 oClock we got out and bore away for the north Cape on Sunday the 27th about 12 oClock we saw the land, I was determined to put in here, and pass a day according to my promise if the Wind permitted and desired the Master to stear for it accordingly. The Wind was rather unfavorable during Sunday night, and on Monday Morning we were 4 or 5 leagues from shore with the Wind from the Land. The Vessel had past the North East point where I had intended to touch, but as we could not make it we endeavoured to work to windward by carrying all the sail we could, and about 10 oClock a Canoe put off to the Active from a different part of the shore where the Chief lived whom I wanted to see. When the Natives came on Board they enformed me the Chief had got a quantity of dressed Flax for me and that Jem the Otaheitian was in the Country about 4 Miles off. I desired the principal Native to send his Canoe on shore, and a Messenger to Jem to enform him of my arrival, which he immediately did and continued on board himself he requesting I would allow him a passage to port Jackson, but for want of room I could not grant his wishes. Shortly after another Canoe came off in which I went on Shore accompanyed by Mr Nicholas and the chief who arrived on Board. We landed at a small Village near the Beach; the surf was high and the place we landed at very Rocky. To me it appeared full of danger, but depending on the knowledge and dexterity of the Natives in the management of their Canoes we ventured thro' the Surf and got safe on shore only with [f] a little sprinkling of the Waves. We here found some pretty little Cottages and their Gardens in high cultivation, neatly fenced and laid out, and the Potatoes, yams &c all planted in separate Beds with not a weed to be seen. In passing thro' the Village I observed a Mans head stuck upon a pole in the front of a Cottage. The Chief stole silently from behind me and took it down, and carried it into the Hut; He was not aware that I observed it, and by his cautious conduct I concluded that he was desirous I should not, on that account I took no notice, but passed on; It was from this Village the Messenger had been dispatched to Jem the Otaheitian, but had not yet returned: we walked about 2 Miles into the interior on the path where Jem was expected to pass, attended by a considerable number of Natives. In our way we saw some beautiful plantations of Potatoes and other Vegetables; the Women appeared as if they were little acquainted with Europeans, and most of them kept at a distance for some time and always fled away when we spoke to them, at length we were hailed by some of the Natives and enformed Jem had taken another Road and was gone down to the Beach. We returned immediately and made for the Sea, but in a contrary direction from that we had been walking in. Being conducted by the natives on our way we met the Chiefs Son. He was dressed in the India Prints I had given to his Father when on my way to the Bay of Islands. The edges of his Garment were ornamented with white Hogs skin with the Hair on, and looked very handsome, the print being red and white gave it a tasteful effect, he was an exceeding fine youth and produced the printed orders of Governor McQuarrie given by me to his Father: They were wrapped up and covered with great care in order to keep them clean. He requested I wod give him a passage to port Jackson to which I consented. He told me [f] his Father wished to see me, and was waiting at the head of the Bay about 3 Miles distant. I set off to visit him and was met by Jem the Otaheitian who told me the Flax was ready. At the time it was nearly night & the Wind still blowing fresh from the land, so that the Active co.d not get up. I was apprehensive she would be driven to Sea and therefore thought it prudent to get on board as soon as we could; with this view we returned to the former Village, and on our way met with 2 Women leaning on a Rock weeping and making loud lamentations. I enquired the cause and learned that their Husband was the Chief who had applied for a passage. I told them not to grieve. I wod. not take him with me, as the Vessel was full. When we arrived at the Village, I observed to the Natives I wanted a Canoe to take us on board. They launched one immediately and filled her with Men, at this time the Sea was uncommonly rough, and the Active a considerable distance from shore, I expected we should meet with some difficulty in getting on Board, but as the natives apprehended no danger I endeavoured to persuade myself that my fears were groundless, and therefore entered the Canoe which soon passed over the raging surf and reached the Active in safety. Some of these Canoes are 80 Feet long, and it is astonishing to see with what skill they manage them in a boisterous Sea; previous to leaving the shore I enformed Jem that the Active wo.d lay to all night if not driven off by the Wind, and in the Morning we should stand in for the Land in Order that I might see his Father in Law and get on board the Flax he had prepared. The wind continuing the same all night, we could not make the Land, but were much in the same Situation we were in the preceding Evening. Jem came off however pretty early in a Canoe with a message from the Chief requesting me to go on shore, I desired him [f] to return and tell the Chief the Sea was so high and I was not accustomed to their Canoes, and on that account was afraid to venture, and that if he had any to send the Vessel shod. wait till I heard from him again, at the same time I sent him a present of some edge Tools which I had reserved purposely for him. In about 3 hours Jem returned with a quantity of Potatoes and about 300 weight of Flax, and a Boy whom the Chief wished me to take to Port Jackson, and that Jem also would go with me and return when the Active came back to New Zealand. I was unwilling to disappoint the wishes of this Chief which placed such confidence in me in sending his Son, that I gave my consent for them both to remain in the Vessel, and we immediately made Sail and bore away with a fine breeze for Port Jackson. Jem told me the Chiefs eldest Son whom I had seen on shore was very anxious to come, but his Mother wod. not consent at the present time. I had now 12 Native passengers on board besides the Natives belonging to the Active. It was with the most heartfelt satisfaction I left New Zealand, not having met with the smallest accident, provocation, or insult. I had fully accomplished the object of my Voyage and satisfied myself relative to the real Character and disposition of these Heathens; I was fully persuaded, that there was no real obstruction to their civilization nor the introduction of Christianity amongst them, and that nothing more was requisite than common prudence on the part of those who might be engaged in this humane and benevolent undertaking. Nothing material happened on our passage till the 20th of March when we had a very heavy storm of Thunder and lightening [sic] from the South West blowing on a very hard Gale, and compelled us to lay to for almost 2 Days and Nights. At this [f] time we were not far from the Coast of New Holland. Some of the New Zealanders were much alarmed: they expected the Vessel to be dashed to pieces every moment and particularly the Chief Timmarangha; He wept much and said he sho.d never see his Wife and Children more, and begged the Captain to take all the Coats from the Masts (meaning the Sails) for they wo.d kill the Active. Tupee on the other hand was quite composed throughout the Gale. He said neither Thunder lightening [sic] nor Wind would destroy the Vessel while I and he remained in it, and exhorted Timmarangha not to be afraid for he was safe enough. Notwithstanding all that Tupee advanced, Timmarangha's fears continued with the Gale, neither co.d he rest Night or Day. Tupee was accustomed to pray much, and sometimes he would have a few of the Natives with him; He had strong confidence in some supreme being; The God of New Zealand he was want [sic] to call the object of his Worship. I was very sick during the Gale, and could seldom get out of my Cot. Tupee would sit besides me, and put his hands on different parts of my body. At the same time would pray to his God. Tupee is a dignified and superior Character and at all periods the same, and was very Mild and even tempered in the above Gale. We were drove more than 200 Miles to the Northward of Port Jackson, when it abated the wind became fair and we anchored in Sydney Cove on Wednesday the 23rd March. I shall now conclude this Narrative with observing that the New Zealand Chiefs are a Warlike race, and very proud of their dignity and rank, they seem to be Men who never forget a favor nor a wrong, but retain a greatful [sic] remembrance of those Europeans who have been kind to them, and to have the most sovereign [f] contempt for any who have injured them, they appear to live in amity and peace amongst themselves when under the Government of one Chief. I saw no quarrelling while I was there. They are kind to their Women and Children; I never observed either with a mark of violence upon them, nor did I ever see a Woman struck. The Settlers told me they had never seen any differences with the inhabitants at Ranghee Hoo during the time they had resided there, and I think differences are rare amongst those of the same tribe, or belonging to the same Village. Upon the South side of the Bay of Islands, I was enformed, that no injury had been done to any Europeans since Captn Cook was there; The two Brother Chiefs Terra and Tupee are exceeding well disposed Men, and would never allow the least act of violence to be committed upon the Europeans. They frequently stated the injuries that they and their people had suffered from the English and that one Master of a Vessel not long ago had shot 2 of their Men dead, notwithstanding this outrage they had not retaliated upon the Europeans, and mentioned this as a proof how much they wished to cultivate our acquaintance, they told me I need not be under any apprehension for the safety of the Active while she remained with them; In answer I said she should be constantly employed for their good and to enable them to emprove their Country; and that they might consider her as belonging to New Zealand. That she would not come to visit New Zealand from an expectation of receiving any advantage from them; One of the Chiefs replied they were convinced of that for they had nothing to give. I recommended to them to procure and dress what Flax they could against the return of the Active which would be in 3 Moons, and I would send such articles as they wanted to pay them for it which they promised to do. I am convinced, that little good can be done amongst the Natives of New Zealand without a Vessel which would secure the lives of the Europeans settled on the Island, and materially conduce to the civilization of the people by offering frequent oppertunities [sic] to the Chiefs to visit Port Jackson, where they might see the habits and taste the comforts of civil Life; They would acquire more knowledge [f] in one Months residence in New South Wales than they could for a long time in their own Country tho' the Europeans were with them, A single View of our Houses with their furniture, and public buildings, His Majesty's stores & Granaries together with our Arts and Cultivation, would so much extend their views, that they would never lose the impression: When I took Tupee and Timmorangha to view our general Hospital, their astonishment was greatly excited, and immediately tooks [sic] its dementions [sic] in order to be able to tell what they had seen, observing to me, their Country was in an ignorant state, and that no work was done there.— Notwithstanding the remark of Tupee the natives are too active and industerous [sic] a race of Men to be satisfied with the mere residence of a few solitary European Individuals among them. They will require to be frequently visited and supplied with tools of Agriculture. Iron is the only article which they at present value, Fire Arms excepted, they are very bold and daring, and undertake difficult enterprises having little means of cultivating their lands for the want of Iron and quite destitute of every kind of grain before the Active went.—They have no commerce with other Nations. The only profession, therefore these Chiefs may be said to follow is War; It is no uncommon thing for the North Cape to travel thro' the Country to the East Cape, lying in the River Thames a distance of near 300 Miles to War; this is a great undertaking when it is considered there are no regular roads, no Bridges over Rivers, and little means of support in an uncultivated Country such as New Zealand. Jem the Otaheitian told me that he had been three times within the last 5 Years at the East Cape to War, in Company with one thousand Men. When they arrive in the territory of those whom they are going to Plunder it is only for a few Matts, or a few Prisoners of War; While the Active lay at the River Thames, we observed a number of Canoes upon the Beach, and enquired where they came from, and was enformed, that they belonged to some [f] Warriors who lived on the West side of New Zealand, and had brought them Over Land for the purpose of going to War with some of the Tribes at the East Cape. I felt a great desire to visit their Camp, and view the Men who could undertake so arduous an enterprize with heavy Canoes so far through a mountanious [sic] and uncleared Country. Duaterra recommended me not to visit their Camp as it was unsafe, I took it very kind of him, and followed his advice. The distance from it was about 3 Miles from our Anchorage. The New Zealanders are all Cannibals; They did not appear to have any Idea, that this was an unnatural crime. When I expressed my Abhorrence at their eating one another they said it had always been the custom to eat their Enemies. I was unable to ascertain whether they ever ate human Flesh as a meal, or from choice, or in cool blood; but it strikes me to be only from mental gratification and in retaliation for some great injury. As far as I can form an opinion of this horrid custom, I am inclined to believe, that the New Zealanders do not consider it any more crime to eat their enemies, than civilized Nations do to hang an offender, altho' at the same time it stamps as much public disgrace upon the surviving relatives as the public execution of a Criminal in Europe reflects upon the Family of the sufferer. When I represented to them that this barbarous and inhuman custom was unknown to Europe, and a foul disgrace to their Nation, they seemed surprized; and Shunghee who is a Man of high authority told me, as I had enformed him it was wrong he and his people wod never be guilty of the like again, and others who stood by at the time expressed the same assurances. I took an oppertunity [sic] upon all occasions that offered to impress upon their Minds the horrors this practice excited in the Breasts of other Nations, and the dread and disgrace it attached to theirs. It may be proper for me also to remark, that altho' we met with the most friendly reception throughout [f] every part of the Coast we touched at, yet I should recommend Masters of Vessels who visit New Zealand to be very cautious unless they can depend upon their Crews behaving well. The New Zealanders will not be insulted with impunity, and treated as Men without understanding, but resent to the utmost of their power any injury heaped against them. At the Bay of Islands I consider a Vessel to ride equally as safe as in the Harbour of Port Jackson, should even any difference take place between the Natives and the Crew; but for any other part of the Island I won't answer. When I take into consideration what I saw of these Islanders, and the frequent conversation I had with them during the time I was there upon various subjects, I am strongly inclined to believe, that they will soon be ranked among civilized Nations, and especially if their wants in Iron are supplied; I am also of opinion that their own industry in collecting Timber and Flax or any other articles of commerce which their Country may be found hereafter to produce, will contribute in a great measure to repay the expences; but I again assert that without Iron these people can never rise above their present unpolished situation. If means are adopted to furnish them with this essential article, then indeed their Country will soon supply them with all the necessary conveniences and comforts enjoyed in civil Society and as their Comforts encrease [sic], so will their wants stimulate their industry, and lay a solid foundation not only for their civilization and mental improvement in the Civil Arts, but also for the introduction of Christianity, the grand final object in the contemplation of the Society and the devout wish of all those who pray for the prosperity of Zion. I trust from what I have stated, the Society will form a proper judgement of the situation [f] and Character of the Natives of New Zealand, and that the British Nation in particular will continue to feel and long enjoy the infinite blessings derived from a preached Gospel which renders England the Glory and envy of all nations, and likewise commiserate for the miseries of these poor heathens who are litterally [sic] without hope and without God! I am confident, that the Society and all who aid their benevolent exertions will feel a lively interest in the temporal and eternal welfare of so great a Nation as New Zealand. And have only to request you will present my respectful compliments to the Society and assure them, that nothing shall be wanted on my part to second their benevolent wishes.— I have the Honour to be Reverend and Dear Sir! Your most obedient and humble Servant Samuel Marsden