Copy of an Official from Mr Secretary Campbell to the Rev. d Samuel Marsden. Secretary’s Office Sydney 17 Novr 1814 Revd Sir Being now on the eve of your departure for the Islands of New Zealand, And His Excellency the Governor, being anxious to promote the interests of the Crown, conjointly with those of the Christian Religion, on this Occasion wishes to avail himself of your superior Activity, Zeal, and intelligence. For this purpose His Excellency desires you will explore as much of the Sea Coasts, and the interior of these Islands, as your limited time, a due regard to your personal safety, and that of your associates, and the other circumstances of your Mission will reasonably admit. By these means you will be enabled to form a correct judgment of the nature, and quality of the soil, its various productions, and its general capabilities, And your Observation with regard to the Coasts, will furnish you with the means of appreciating the relative advantages of the Harbours, as connected with the productions of the interior. Those Harbours, which possess plentiful Supplies of fresh water, with safe Anchorage for Shipping will necessarily claim your particular attention. Should a satisfactory report be made to His Excellency on the foregoing particulars, he will feel it his duty to represent it to His Majesty’s Government, which may probably be thereby induced to form a permanent establishment on those Islands, And under these considerations His Excellency, desires your particular attention to the foregoing circumstances, and that on your return hither, you will make him a full report in writing of your progress, and observations, together with the Success which may attend your Mission. I have the honor to be Revd Sir Your Obedient humble Servant Signed John Thomas Campbell Secretary [f] Parramatta 30th May 1815. May it Please your Excellency In obedience to your Excellencys official Communication directed to me on the 17th Novr 1814, in which your Excellency, instructs me to explore as much of the Sea Coast, and the interior of New Zealand, as my limited time would permit, And report to you such Observations as I might be able to make relative to that Island, I have the honor to transmit the following Statement for your Excellencys information. I landed on the North Cape of New Zealand, and on the Cavalles, some small inhabited Islands about 40 miles Southward of the Cape, and on the main opposite to the Islands. I also visited the River Thames, and landed on the West side of the Harbour. But the principal part of my time was spent in the Bay of Islands, and the adjacent Country. At the North Cape, I only travelled 2 or 3 miles into the interior, and passed One day and a half, as we found no Safe harbour for the Vessel to lay. The Inhabitants are numerous and a very fine race of people, Their Potatoe plantations are all very neatly fenced in, and was in as high cultivation as the Gardens in and near London as they do not suffer a single weed to remain that would injure the growing crop, Here they cultivate turnips, yams, Terra, common and sweet potatoes, Their gardens are principally situated in the Vallies or where the land, has a gentle rise, and the Soil rich, What ground is not in cultivation is generally covered with the Flax plant or Fern, the root of which is much esteemed by the Natives, and ate by them as Bread in England. The land I passed over was generally good, and not so hilly as many other parts of New Zealand. There is no heavy timber and comparatively [f] little of any kind. It is very well watered in every direction. Supplies of Fresh Pork, Fish, and Potatoes, when in Season may be obtained here very reasonable, but as there are no harbours for Vessels we saw, it must be difficult to get off refreshments unless the Weather is fine. The Surf beats violently all along the Beach, where a Boat can land when it blows fresh from the Sea, and the Coast is very high and rocky unless on a sandy beach. On the Cavalles, the inhabitants are but few. There is a considerable quantity of good land but very high, it is covered with the Flax plant and the fern, like the North Cape and scarcely a Tree of any size upon them. The land upon the main appeared beautiful to the eye, at the top of the Cavalles lying in alternate hills and vallies. The vallies were invariably filled with trees and the hills entirely clear and had more the appearance of art than nature. I landed on the Main and met with the people who cut off the Boyd upwards of 5 years ago, They were encamped and I continued with them all night. The Chiefs related many circumstances relative to that fatal transaction from which it appeared that the Europeans had been the first aggressors, there was one Chief present who had sailed from Port Jackson in the Boyd and upon whom corporal punishment had been severely inflicted during his passage to New Zealand. They invited me into their harbour of Whangooroa where the remains of the Boyd lay and said they would give me her guns part of which were on shore, or any other of her property that they might possess. My reason for not going in was in consequence of the wind not permitting. The Chiefs went on board the Active to breakfast with me the next morning, and then returned on Shore, when we immediately got under way. I found the land tolerably good but very little of it fit for the ploughs cultivation, on account of its mountainous State. The flat where the Natives were encamped might contain Somewhat about 100 acres or more part of which was enclosed, and planted with potatoes, the inhabitants were numerous and exceeding friendly, [f] And we were furnished with a good supply of Potatoes and Poultry. Between the main land and the Cavalles, there is safe shelter for Shipping with good anchorage of 7 fathom water, as also a good passage between the Islands and the main both to the Northward and Southward. If a Vessel cannot go for contrary winds on the outside of these Islands, there is no danger in running in the inside of them. All the Coast from the Cavalles to the River Thames is very high and broken land, excepting Bream Cove, where the land is low and pretty level. From 5 leagues and upwards along the Sea Coast where [sic] found the greatest abundance of Fish particularly Bream from which fish the Cove derives its name. I landed at the North end near Bream head so called by Captn Cook where I found a great number of hospitable and friendly Natives, among whom was a young Man called Moyhangee who had been in England and mentioned in Savages history of New Zealand. He was particulary [sic] rejoiced and inquired after Lord Fitzwilliam and several other Noblemen who had been kind to him. Fish potatoes and Pork where very plentiful here, On my arrival at the River Thames I found the harbour very open and extremely dangerous to Shipping when the Wind sets in from the Sea. There is no Shelter where a Vessel can lay in Safety unless behind Some of the Islands which lay both on the East and West side of the harbour, and which we had not time to examine while we were there. We had a very heavy Gale which prevented us from finding the Channel into the Fresh Water river, which is exceeding narrow, and Shallow Water on each side. At the head of the Cove a grove of lofty Pines grew which had a noble and grand appearance, We stopped here 3 days without being able to get into the River and my time being limited did not admit of my staying any longer— I landed on the West Side of the harbour where there is a [f] Strong fortification with a straggling village 2 miles in length— The flat on which the village is situated may contain about 200 acres with a soil generally rich but stony. The land in the rear is hilly part is planted with potatoes which are very fine. The natives were by far a more Robust & Finer looking race than any I had seen and the Chiefs and their Wives Clad in a Superior Stile. From the River Thames we sailed to the Bay of Islands where I continued upwards of 6 weeks and examined the adjoining Country, In every direction the mouth of this harbour is about 4 leagues, and good anchorage for Shipping in several Coves, as well as behind the Islands of which there are a number in the Bay. Some of the Coves run more than 20 miles from the heads into the interior., There are 4 fresh water rivers also— which run into the harbour in different places. These rivers derive the following names from the natives Viz Cowa—Cowa, Wycaddee, Wymattee and Wytanghee, upon the banks of the two former the Pine Tree grows to a considerable height and Size. I measured some which exceeded 30 feet in circumference and appeared to be from 80 to 100 feet high, and without a branch and very straight. There is sufficient depth for large Ships with good and safe anchorage within 10 miles from each of these rivers and 12 from the heads of the harbour. I was up both these rivers, beyond where Salt water extends, there is good land upon there bank’s with several native Villages, the low lands seldom exceed 100 acres and in many places not more than 20. The high land though very strong [sic] wheat land and covered with fern could not be cultivated with the Plough from the broken surface, in Short the land more resembles the waves of the Sea in a Storm than any other works of nature. I think it more than probable from the hilly nature of the Country sufficient falls of water could be met with on these rivers for turning Mills, though I did not proceed high enough to examine sufficiently the truth of this conjecture, I examined the Rivers Wytanghee & Wymattee more particularly and found upon them the finest natural [f] falls I ever beheld in any Country. The first fall upon Wytanghee was situated at the head of the Salt Water Cove. A solid perpendicular rock of almost a semicircular form surrounded the head of the Cove and formed the bank on each side to a considerable extent. The rock runs across the Fresh water river from bank to bank fully 120 feet in extent. Over the level bed the river falls into the Cove, which is 16 feet perpendicular above the high water mark. There was sufficient water in December the time we were there, which is sufficient to turn any heavy Mills for grinding Flour, cutting timber or other purposes. The river seemed to derive its source from natural Springs, and not from Occasional rains, for on examining the banks of the river I found no marks of land floods, from the grass and small trees standing in their natural posture. I am of opinion therefore that Mills might safely be erected here without being endangered by floods. Timber, Wheat or any other heavy articles might safely and easily be conveyed by water, to the very foot of the mills. There is much good land in the neighbourhood of the Cove leading up to the river, and several native villages. I crossed this river about 15 miles in the interior where I saw other situations favorable for the erection of Mills. The Wymatteee River falls also into the head of the salt water Cove, and lays about 8 or 10 miles to the Northward of Wytanghee. The water of this river runs over a fall of about 10 feet, above high water mark, and is formed by nature Similar to many artificial Mill dams, which extend across rivers in England. One solid rock forms the bed of the river and both banks are also rock. This is equally advantageous to the erection of Mills , From Wymattee I walked in a westerly direction upwards of 20 miles through the country, For 3 miles after leaving the banks of the river, the land was generally level and exceeding rich and good, well calculated for the growing of Wheat or other grain. There was no timber upon it, yet it was thickly covered with Brushwood and Fern it extended from the right to the left Some miles and might be easely [sic] cultivated with the Plough.[f] For the next 6 miles the soil was of Various qualities Some good, Some Stony, some swampy, and some of a gravelly nature. The country I passed through was exceeding well watered. having crossed 9 fine runs of fresh water in the distance of as many miles. I then entered a very fine wood of different kinds of timber. The Pines in particular were of an uncommon Size. After passing through the Wood, I came to a native Village which was situated in a fine rich valley through which a considerable rivulet ran. For the next 5 miles the soil varied. Some stoney but the Land rich, And in the Stony land the Natives plant considerable quantities of Potatoes, There was a large flat of good land that might be wrought with the plough, I observed one field that appeared to me to contain 40 acres and upwards, all fenced in, In this enclosure very expensive [sic] plantations of Sweet and Common potatoes were observed, Shortly after passing the field I came to a strong fortified Village, containing about 200 houses, It was built on the Summit of a very high hill round which three deep, and wide trenches were dug, At a few paces from each other and all three fenced either with split or whole Trees not less than 20 Feet high, in this fortification there were a number of people, The Village and people belonged to the Chief Shunghee and his brother Kangarooa and all the country through which I passed. The two Chiefs have very large dominions their territory extending from the East side of New Zealand opposite to the Cavalle Islands to the West side of it, I slept two nights in this fortification, During the time I remained here, I examined the country for about 5 miles to the Westward, and arrived at a lake of Fresh water about 15 miles in circumference. Shunghee informed me, that this lake emptied itself into a fresh water river, that runs into [f] the Western Ocean, And that there was a very fine and extensive harbour on the west side into which this river ran, but the entrance was very narrow, and a very heavy Sea when the wind was from the Southward. I saw little grass in any part of New Zealand excepting in small patches where the land had been cultivated neither is it possible for the grass to grow while the country continues in a state of nature on account of the immence [sic] quantity of Fern which burthens the soil and smothers all other Vegetation. In many places it appeared 6 feet high and stands as thick upon the ground as a crop of Wheat, There is no part of New Zealand that I saw so elligable [sic] for a Settlement as the Country last described, which lies between the 2 rivers Wyemattee and Wytanghee, The country appeared extremely fine and fit for cultivation to the Northward and Westward, as far as the eye could discern. On my way between the Banks of the Wyemattee and the fortified Village, previously mentioned, I observed no Free Stone, from the North Cape to the river Thames, a distance of about 200 miles. The rocks appeared of a very dark Grey, and nearly as hard as a Mill Stone, And throughout the whole bore nearly the same aspect. The country abounds with pipe-clay and Brick earth, I observed no signs either of Coal or Limestone, With respect to the timber there is great variety, fit for building houses, Ships, or any other purposes. The Pine Tree is by far the largest of which I saw 4 different Species, but no extensive forests. The Flax plant is common all over the Country, It grows on the richest Vallies and on the poorest hills, and is a hardy annual plant. It Serves the Natives for fishing lines, clothing, Sleeping Mats, and Baskets as also other purposes. It may be considered One [f] of the greatest gifts of nature, these people can inherit. I found the Natives kind and friendly, on every part of the Coast, from the North Cape to the River Thames. They likewise manifested an ardent desire to cultivate an intercourse with Europeans, And several of the Chiefs requested I would send some to reside among them, Tho’ I was persuaded that the New Zealanders would be glad to have some Europeans to instruct them in the Arts, and Agriculture, I am of opinion they would not quietly submit to have any part of their Country wrested from them by any other nation, but would resist to the utmost of their power, any attempt of this nature. A Chief might be enduced to locate [sic] a certain part of his domain, for a valuable consideration, provided he could do this legally in conformity to the Custom of the Country. But whether he could or no I am not certain. The boundaries of their estates appear to be all accurately ascertained by land marks, to show who is the proprietor, and particulary [sic] on their fishing grounds. Tho’ the natives of this place were so very friendly to us, and showed us every mark of attention, Still I should recommend all masters of Vessels, to be extremely cautious in entering into any other harbour than the Bay of Islands, unless they can depend upon the good conduct of their Crews. The New Zealanders will not be insulted with impunity, nor treated as Men without understanding. In the Bay of Islands I should consider a Vessel to ride equally as safe as if in the harbour of Port Jackson, unless the Crew behaved extremely ill, as the Natives here would not take offence on any trifling occasion. All the natural productions of the Island, such as Timber, Flax or any other article that may hereafter be found Valuable to [f] Commerce May be obtained from the Natives for axes or any other edge tool they might want. None of them appear to want industry but only a proper object to stimulate them. They have done much in the way of cultivation with such insufficient [sic] tools as they have been able to make of Wood. But it is out of the power of Men to clear and subdue in any quantity land in its natural state without Iron, an article which they have had no means to procure. I have every reason to hope that from a late communication The Church Missionary Society will in a short time supple their wants in this respect. And have only to solicit that your Excellency will be graciously pleased to recommend to the kind consideration of His Majesty’s Government the Inhabitants of this Island who with a little assistance would soon shake off the Shackles of Superstition and Barbarism and render themselves worthy of ranking with the lists of civilized nations— I have the honor to be Sir Your Excellency’s Most Obedient humble Servant Saml Marsden To His Excellency, Governor Macquarie