Particulars of my third visit to New Zealand 1820. In the beginning of the year 1820 His Majesty’s Ship “Dromedary” commanded by Captain Skinner, arrived in Sydney Cove with Male prisoners: and Sir Byam Martin, comptroller of the Navy, having instructed the Master, that this ship, after landing her prisoners, and being prepared for Sea, should proceed to New Zealand for Spars.— At the same time, it was stated, that the “Coromandel” was on her passage out, and that, her commander had received similar instructions.— It was intimated also, that I should be requested to accompany the “Dromedary” in order to promote the object of her voyage to these Islands.— I gladly availed myself of this favourable opportunity to renew my intercourse with the settlements, and to use the influence I had obtained among the Natives, in preventing disputes and misunderstandings between them and the Europeans of the King’s ships; being fully aware, that it was of the utmost importance, for the future prosperity of the Mission, and the general happiness of the islanders, to maintain a good understanding between the Natives, the Soldiers and the Ships’ companies.— We proceeded to the Bay of Islands [f] (without meeting any thing worthy of note) having, as far as circumstances would permit, made arrangements with the chiefs of Whangaroa to obtain a cargo of spars for the “Dromedary”, she sailed for the harbour of that place, to receive her load.— The “Coromandel”, Captain Downie commander, arrived at the Bay of Islands (soon after the Dromedary had left that place) with precisely the same instructions (as before hinted) namely “to take in spars”, for which purpose, it was necessary she should proceed to the River Thames— In order to perform the same service for the Coromandel, as I had endeavoured to do for the other ship (above stated) I embarked on board of her (7th June 1820) for the River Thames, accompanied by Tooi, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and Timmorangha, a Chief of Tiami. On the evening of the 12th [in pencil - June] we anchored under Cape Colville: and after spending one week, in forwarding the object of the voyage, I passed three weeks more in visiting the Bays and Creeks on the eastern side of the Thames.— Here I met with a principal chief named Tippoohee, who was much rejoiced to see me.— I told him the object of my voyage to the Thames— that I had come in a large ship belonging to “King George” for spars [f] and wished to know, if he could inform me, where they were to be met with; and by what means they could be conveyed to the Ships:— that the ship’s boat was coming up the river, to see if any could be found. He said there was a great quantity of Spars, growing upon his land, which we might have, if they would answer, and that he would go up the river with us, & shew them.— He told me he was in great trouble, that the Chiefs on the west side of the Thames, who are distinguished by the name of “Howpha’s Tribe” had lately made war upon him,— killed a number of his people, amongst whom was his brother, and that he expected they would renew their attacks upon him in a short time; that most of his Hogs had been killed, his potatoes destroyed, and himself and people reduced to great want.— I expressed my concern for his calamities, and felt very much distressed for him and his people— and promised that I would see the chiefs on the west side, and use my influence with them, to bring about a reconciliation. He observed, they were too powerful for him, as their friends, at the Bay of islands, furnished them with fire arms and ammunition, so that he was unable to meet them, and that he believed it [f] was their determination to dispossess him of his land, and to drive him away altogether, and he thought nothing short of this would satisfy them! While we were conversing upon these subjects, a Mr Anderson arrived with the Launch boat, when Tippoohee and I got into her, and we proceeded up to the next village, which belongs to another chief “Towretta”— Mr Anderson anchored the Launch opposite this village, and we all went on shore for the night. Towretta, I had also known before, and he gave us a very cordial reception.— These are the two principal chiefs on the fresh water river, both of them very tall, fine, handsome men. [In pencil - June 17th] The following morning we proceeded up the River in the Launch, with a fair wind and tide.— The two chiefs accompanied us, and about 50 of their people in canoes.— Mr Hume, the Surgeon of the Coromandel, the carpenter and the captain’s clerk, were also of the party. We had a very fine day, and arrived in the evening at a Settlement called “Kowpah”, situated at the junction of two fresh water rivers whose united streams form the Thames. On a point of high land where the two streams meet, and by which it is surrounded, stands the Hippah of the Head Chief or Arekee (as the Natives call him). The Hippah was very full of people, who welcomed us on shore with loud [f] acclamations and conducted us to the Arekee, who was seated in the midst of his family.— He was an old man apparently not far from 70 years of age, well made, and of great muscular Strength.— His Mother was still alive with three generations by her. The Natives’ houses here were much larger and better built than any I had seen in New Zealand— The Arekee appropriated one for us which afforded Lodging to us, and the 50 Natives, who had attended the Launch up the river. The 18th being the Sabbath, we rested in the Hippah and I spent part of it, in conversing with the Natives upon the works of creation and the institution of the Christian Sabbath “Timmorangha” acting as my interpreter, on all occasions, when I could not make myself be understood.— This settlement would be an eligible situation for a Missionary Station at some future period, should God be graciously pleased to visit the people of this dreary and benighted land, with his Salvation. On the following morning Mr Anderson went to examine the Spars in the neighbourhood and I got a canoe, with some Natives, and proceeded up the left River; the land on its banks was very rich, and here & there adorned with lofty pines— some small farms were cultivated for Potatoes, upon which, the poor slaves were at work.— The tide runs a few miles up this river; & when we had proceeded about ten or twelve miles, in which space the water was close [f] confined by thick wood on high banks, it opened into a plain, and became shallow— & as night was coming on I returned to the Hippah— On my arrival, which was just at dark, I found the Launch had returned also and I immediately hired another canoe and proceeded down the river and in about two hours found her at anchor and the officers and crew in their Tents on shore— here, I landed and joined them for the night.— [In pencil - June 20] The next day we proceeded down the river and in the evening, after dark, we again anchored opposite Towretta’s village, where we went on shore and remained till day light when we returned to the Coromandel after ten days absence.— [In pencil - June 21] On and near the banks of the river there are spars of all dimensions, with a convenient carriage way; but the quality of the timber is not considered good enough for Masts, especially a species of the Cyprus which composes the principal Forests here, and is called, by the Natives “Kikatea”. It is a light wood; some of it white, and other parts of a red tinge, and it is more fit for planks than for masts. Many of the trees are from eighty to one hundred feet, without a branch, and from two to six feet in diameter, and some much more.— I believe it is Captain Downie’s intention to carry home a few of them as specimens.— The timber already [f] examined, not being approved of, it became necessary to look else where for better sorts.— Towretta and the Arokee informed us that some fine timber called by the Natives “Kowree” grew on the east side of the salt water river. Mr Anderson was therefore sent, in the Launch, to examine the woods in those parts: and on the following day [in pencil - June 22] Captain Downie weighed and followed the Launch in hopes of finding a more commodious and secure harbour for the ship— in this he succeeded to his wishes, having found a most excellent harbour, about 16 miles from our first anchorage, in the spot where Captain Cook’s ship lay, which is behind two small Islands on the east side of the “Thames”.— This harbour is perfectly safe for ships of any burden, being completely sheltered from the Sea.— When Mr Anderson & the ship’s carpenter (who had accompanied him) returned they reported that they had met with some spars which would answer for Masts.— We were all rejoiced in this information, and on the following day [in pencil - June 23] arrangements were made with the Natives and part of the ship’s company for cutting some of them down, and preparing them for shipment.— As Captain Downie had now determined to take what spars he could procure from the neighbouring woods; and as the Natives had come on the most friendly terms with the Europeans: I felt my time to be, in a great [f] measure, at my own disposal; and I spent it chiefly among the Natives of the different Bays, in examining the creeks, woods, and natural productions, for about three weeks.— At this time, I told Towretta that I wished to visit Wyekotto, a river in the interior where the population is very great.— He dispatched a messenger to inform some of the chiefs of my intention; and a number of them came to conduct me to their settlement.— At this time, the weather was very stormy; and a deal of heavy rain fell; I was, however, determined, if possible, to visit Wyekotto. The rout to this settlement being on the west side of the Thames; it was not practicable to cross it in a canoe, owing to the boisterous state of the weather, the river being here about 15 miles over. Mr Anderson had been on a cruise for about ten days, on the east and west shores of the Thames, looking for spars. On his return, he reported there were some that would answer for Masts on the east shore, about 17 miles from where the Coromandel lay, in a wood belonging to Tippoohee, who would assist to get them down to the river. This induced Captain Downie to send a Midshipman, and some of the ship’s company to cut down, and prepare this timber; & the 12th of July was the day appointed to proceed on this duty. As Mr Anderson intended (after landing the party with their provisions and tools &c) to proceed again to the west side of the [f] river, I determined to take a passage in the Launch across the water, and so get on to Wyekotta as the people from that settlement has been waiting some time to conduct me thence.— At 4 A.M. (on the morning of the 12th) [in pencil - July 12] I arose to prepare for my Journey.— The wind had blown hard, during the night, attended with heavy rain, and the morning was on the whole, very threatening. The Launch was, however, got ready, and at day light we sailed from the Coromandel, with a fair wind, and by 12 noon, we arrived at the place where the spars grew.— A number of the Natives were on the Beach ready to receive us, as they knew of our coming, among them were several from Wyekotto. Immediately on our arrival, all hands were busily employed in erecting two Huts, one for the officers in charge of the party, and other for the men.— Before evening one Hut was completed, and two tents (which had been brought with us, were pitched, in one of which I took up my lodgings for the night. The whole day had been unpleasant, attended with Thunder and rain, which continued during the night, and beat through the tent, which made it very cold and wet— I laid down in my clothes, but, had little rest.— The following day [in pencil - July 13] we were visited by a chief from Towrangha attended by his son and daughter.— The old man was much astonished at the sight of Europeans, as he had never seen white people before, I paid him some attention, and made him a small present which he thankfully received, and in [f] the evening he returned.— A Chief also arrived from Wyekottoo, with a fine hog to sell; he offered to Mr Anderson for an axe.— Mr Anderson had no axe to spare, but he had a small Tomahawk which he offered him for it; and which he refused, observing, that he could not cut down the large trees on his farm with so small a tool, and requested Timmorangha to speak to me, that I might give him an axe— Tmmorangha told me his wishes; and I informed him that I had no use for the hog, and therefore did not wish to purchase it.— he, poor man, seemed much distressed— said he had come a long way with the Hog, and felt great pain at his heart for the want of an axe; which I relieved by giving him one— and the hog was given to the work people.— [in pencil - July] (14th) Last night was extremely cold and wet, the rain fell in torrents, and the morning threatened bad weather.— The Natives, who had come as my guides from Wyekotto, informed me that I could not return with them; because I should not be able to pass the rivers and creeks— they would be too deep for me to ford.— This was a great disappointment to both parties, as I had long had a wish to visit that part of the country.— I therefore took my leave of them, and they returned.— I next enquired if it was possible for me to go to “Kiperro”, a settlement on the west side of New Zealand, which I had often heard mentioned.— The Natives informed me I might, that there were no rivers [f] in my way to prevent me.— I therefore changed my intention, and determined to visit Kiperro, and to take a passage in the Launch with Mr Anderson to the west side of the Thames; where he intended to proceed, as soon as he had settled all his arrangements with the workmen.— [in pencil - July] 15th Stormy weather, and heavy rain continued during the whole of the night— in the morning the sea was very rough with a strong wind from the western shore, which would prevent the Launch from crossing the river that day. Mr Anderson then determined to return to the Coromandel, if possible;— I had sent my baggage on board, with an intention to accompany him; but before I could get on board, the surf broke so high upon the Beach, that I could not reach the small boat without wading through the breakers, as she could not approach near the shore, and, as there was no prospect that the Launch could possibly reach the ship that night: I thought it more prudent to remain on shore, than to lie exposed to the wind and rain in an open boat, all night; and in my wet clothes.— I therefore requested Mr Anderson to put my Luggage in the small boat, and the Natives waded through the surf and brought it on shore again: and I took up my lodgings with Mr Emery (who had charge of the workmen) in one of the newly built Huts, thro’ which both wind and rain penetrated.— Thus, my prospect of visiting either Wyekotto or Kiperro, was, for the present at an end. [f] I was aware that the Launch would not return again to Mr Emery in less than a week and there fore ventured to take a trip to Towrangha (by the head of the Thames in order to gain correct information with respect to the Route I should take, I examined several Natives among whom was the chief Tippoohee, who informed me that by going up to Rurpot a settlement already mentioned where the Arekee resides, I could get across the country to Towrangha as soon as the weather mitigated.— [in pencil - July] 10th — Last night was very stormy, I had little rest, from the open state of the Hut, being extremely cold— In the morning a Native informed me, that the Launch had not been able to get down the river, and was laying at anchor, round a point, not far from us. Tho’ my birth had been bad, it was much better than what I could have had, on board the Launch, which was some little consolation, to think, I might have been worse— The wind and rain still continued: and, as it was the Sabbath, I explained to the Natives the institution of this sacred day, with the assistance of Timmorangha, as my Interpreter when I had occasion for him. He told them that many of their public calamities (Such as Wars and famine, from both of which they greatly suffer) were owing to their Ignorance, and neglect of this day; and that he had learned from the white people [f] that there was but one God, and that the God of the Europeans was also the God of the New Zealanders: which caused them to ask many questions about our God.— After I had finished my conversation with the Natives; I explained the Commandments of God to the sailors, for about an hour.— This class of our fellow subjects are exceedingly to be pitied, both Officers and Men, as far as concerns their religious edification. The want of the sacred ordinances of Religion and the means of duly administering them to these People is a great calamity.— Wherever the Sabbath is neglected and forgotten. There, God is neglected and forgotten also.— These men fight our Battles, defend our country, expose themselves to every hardship, and support our Church and State against all foreign enemies, yet no adequate provision is made, to administer to them the Bread of life; but they are left to perish for lack of knowledge. I have felt much pain in reflecting upon their state while I have been in this service.— [in pencil - July] 17th We have had another stormy night, but towards morning the weather began to moderate; and I determined to set off on my route to Towrangha. Timmorangha and his nephew agreed to accompany me; but, there was no canoe (at the place we were in) sufficiently large to venture up the Thames, during the then turbulant state of the water, produced by the preceding Storms.— The Natives informed me I could get a large canoe, at a village about two miles up the river.— After dinner [f] I engaged two Natives to carry my Luggage to the aforesaid village, where we arrived about two oclock, and were kindly received by the Natives. I informed the Chief where I was going and requested him to furnish me with a good canoe and crew to take us up to Kowpah— a distance we estimated at more than fifty miles. He told me I should have one, and ordered a Canoe to be got ready and manned immediately. A subordinate Chief offered to go with me, and to take his servant, to assist in carrying my Luggage, for an axe, which I readily consented to give him— We then embarked, but were soon compelled to return to shore again, from the violence of the wind and waves, as the Natives were apprehensive the Canoe would be upset. They recommended me to walk to the next Village, where the river would be much narrower and consequently less sea, and I could there procure a Canoe.— We therefore relanded and set off for the next village where we arrived a little after dark.— The Natives received us kindly, made us a large fire, and gave some provisions to my companions: they accommodated me with a good Hut.— We spent the evening in useful conversation; and then lay down to rest for the night. After committing myself and associates to the care of Him, who numbereth the hairs of our heads I felt myself as secure, as if I had been resting in the bosom of my family. [in pencil - July] 18th In the morning the stormy weather returned with great violence— There was no venturing on the river in a Canoe, from this village; and [f] our only alternative, was to walk up the banks of the river, till it became narrower and shut in by the land on both sides.— With this view we left this village, and past through four more villages upon the river’s bank, where we stopt to breakfast.— The Chief’s wife, at the latter village, was very attentive, she made her little Hut as comfortable as she could— laid down a new mat for me to sit upon: and by every little act of kindness, shewed her anxiety to please.— During our stay here, the rain fell very heavy, and the wind blew a gale. In about an hour the storm moderated, and we proceeded, and past three other villages when we arrived at the Hippah of the head Chief Tippoohee.— This Hippah is situated at the mouth of the fresh water river, on a beautiful eminence which commands the river Thames, both above and below.— The prospect is very extensive: and there is a large quantity of good land around the Hippah well adapted for the growth of grain.— A creek of salt water, about one hundred yards wide, runs from the main river, round to the rear of the Hippah till it meets a fresh water stream.— The creek was navigable for small craft, where I crost it.— A Battle had been fought upon its banks a few months before, a chief was shot. They shewed me the spot where he had stood, and the bush behind which his enemy had lain concealed, when he was shot.— When we arrived at the Hippah, it was too late to proceed up the Thames; I therefore (after taking some refreshment, got a Canoe in the evening, and went up the fresh water [f] stream which flows down, between some high hills from the interior. A large body of water comes down this creek occasionally.— The land upon its banks is exceedingly rich, and could easily be cultivated by the plough.— In the valley thro’ which it runs, I met a number of Natives returning from their work, with whom I walked back to the Hippah. Tippoohee’s brother and several other chiefs were in the Hippah, and I spent the evening with them, in conversing on the various consequences of War, the advantages of peace, civil Government, Agriculture, and commerce. Tippoohee was not there— His brother appeared to be a mild sensible man, and he expressed his disapprobation of the conduct of many chiefs who were always fighting and thereby brought great distress upon the Inhabitants. There tribe had been attached, the year before, by the people at the Bay of Islands, and the tribes on the west side, from whom they had suffered much, and expected to be again attacked by the latter. I told him, I would, on my return, see the chiefs on the west side, and endeavour to make peace between them.— Timmorangha informed me that this chief disliked war, and never engaged in it.— He presented me with some fine Mats, for which, I gave him some edge tools. —I was accommodated with a large Hut for the night: and, on retiring to rest, I informed him I should want a good Canoe in the morning which he promised I should have.— This Hippah has been a very strong place, both by Art and Nature. It is guarded by deep recesses and a high fence of split timber.— [f] In their former mode of warfare it must have bid defiance to any force which might be brought against it: but it cannot now afford security against an enemy armed with Muskets.— They shewed me where the musket balls had penetrated their buildings, observing that it was impossible for men, armed with spears only, to contend against the power of fire arms.— Should the British Government ever form a settlement at the river Thames; the ground on which this Hippah stands is, in my opinion, the most eligible for the purpose, that I have yet seen.— It possesses many important local advantages; & could easily be fortified, and made impregnable— It commands the entrance into the fresh water river;— is surrounded by a tract of fine land for cultivation, and convenient to timber, for building. Tho’ ships of burden cannot be brought close up to the place, it is yet more convenient to the anchorage ground, where they may ride in perfect safety, than any other situation: and small vessels, under 150 tons, may come up the river, and anchor opposite to the settlement.— [in pencil - July] 19th This morning we rose very early, and prepared for our journey, having some distance to walk before we could be accommodated with a good canoe— We past two villages, and at the third we embarked.— While the men were launching the canoe and getting all ready, the inhabitants of the village assembled round us: among whom was a very aged sage priest, who entered into close conversation with my friend Timmorangha for some time, the latter was all attention and at length became much agitated.— I asked him what was the matter, he said, the Priest had told him he had seen his Ghost [f] in the night, and had also had an interview with Attua who had said that if Timmorangha accompanied me to Towrangha, he would die in four days; because he had, when last there, killed two Chiefs; and the God of Towrangha would now kill him if he went: the priest concluded by recommending him to return. Timmorangha then told me of his war expedition against Towrangha, and that he was returning from that expedition the morning on which Mr Kendall sailed for England, and that the prisoners of war, and the chiefs’ heads I had seen at Rangheehoo, that morning, were all brought from Towrangha. In consequence of this information, I conceived there mght be some danger to Timmorangha; if he accompanied me, the people there might take advantage of him and cut him off. I was therefore induced to ask him, if he was afraid that the people at Towrangha would kill and eat him, if he went with me. He replied, that he was not afraid of the people— they would not take advantage of him: but he was much afraid, from what the priest had said, that their God would kill him.— I observed that if he was only afraid of their God, and not of being killed and eaten by the inhabitants, I would take care that their god should not injure him, because the God that would be with us, was the true God, and He would take care of us both. Upon this assurance, Timmorangha said he would venture.— Tho’ his mind was considerably enlightened, and he had seen the absurdity of many superstitious customs practised by his countrymen— I frequently observed that his feelings were influenced less or more by his former notions of such things whenever any serious cause [f] called it forth.— When I have reasoned with him, on the foolishness, and groundlessness of his fears, in believing that the Attua can do him, or his friends, this or that injury; he would reply “it was very well for me to talk in that way, whose God was good— over whom the Attua of New Zealand had no power: but, he and his countrymen were quite differently situated: their God was always angry and in his anger would cut their bowels out.” After Timmorangha had got a little the better of his fears, we embarked for Towrangha with a strong tide in our favour. The men pulled hard all the way, and we went up the river very pleasantly, and did not stop till the evening, when we went on shore for a short time, kindled a fire on the bank and dressed a basket of potatoes according to their custom— We had no other means of cooking any thing, my Kettle having been, by mistake, left in the Launch—I had a small tin pot only to serve all purposes. As soon as we had taken some refreshments, we proceeded up the river, till nearly day light when we found ourselves opposite a small village. The night had been dark and cold, with some rain— Some of the men went therefore on shore to call up the inhabitants of the village— who kindled a fire, on our landing, and accommodated us with a Hut. I supposed that I was then on the banks of the river— 20th— When the day broke, I was astonished to find myself on the banks of a creek upon which stood two small villages—The Chief of the place was a very fine youth about sixteen years old— His name [f] was “Awaugh”,— his father, he informed me, was killed in Battle. The land around appeared to be a very fine description of soil: and the slaves were then preparing it for planting. I informed Awaugh where I was going, and he said he would go with me.— He presented us with plenty of fine potatoes and a good hog.— I saw his father’s Hippah— which was not then inhabited; it had been a large strong place.— I observed several sepulchres within it, some of them are raised above ground, painted, carved, and ornamented with feathers. We breakfasted at this village; killed our hog and roasted him whole for our journey. The Inhabitants were much gratified with our visit, and I made them all small presents of fish-hooks &c.— The chief woman of the village had a little house about a yard square, neatly built, painted, and ornamented with feathers in which she deposited the sacred Food for her God; it stood on a post close to her Hut. We here met a Chief from Towrangha named “Towarroro”. I inquired of him how long we should be in walking to Towrangha and he answered “two days” and that he would attend us.— After breakfast we set off an [sic] about an hour reached the banks of one of the main branches of the Thames, called “O Emananee” above Kowpah. About four miles up this river stands an Hippah upon a very high, stony Hill called “Tipporari”— It commands a very extensive prospect of the Thames, some immense Forests, and Plains, as well as of the Mountains in the rear. It had formerly been a strong place, and was then inhabited. [f] We crossed the river OEmanonee at a ford at the foot of the hill on which Tipparari stands. The ford was breast high, and the stream rapid: four New Zealanders carried me over on their shoulders in safety— they are so accustomed to the water that rivers and swamps present nothing difficult to them, in their long journeys.— I had fourteen Natives (including Chiefs and their servants) with me, so that I was under no apprehensions of meeting impediments, which, with their assistance, I could not overcome. At this point, the country around is very hilly, and covered with timber— some of the trees are exceeding lofty and fine. the woods extend to the right and left of the pathway, further than the eye can reach. OEmanonee runs through a deep chasm in a mountain, at the foot of some very high conical rocks, on the right; and afterwards runs on to the left, towards the coast.— We had to ford this river three times, and our path lay thro the wood directly across the summit of the hill. The wood may be about three miles wide at the place we passed thro’ it— but, of its length, I could form no opinion; as I could see no end to it, even after I had got upon the high clear land, on the opposite side; from which (as the country in rear of the wood is all open) the Hills that encompass Towrangha are clearly to be seen. They appeared to be about sixteen miles distant, situated on the skirts of an intervening plain, which is pretty level,— covered with fern, and completely clear of timber.— In this plain [f] there are a number of natural Springs of water, by the foot of the hills which overlook Towrangha, all sending their tributary streams to the OEmanonee— this river being formed and supplied by the union of these waters. The Natives informed me, that the Spars in the immense wood, opposite to the plain leading to Towrangha, might be floated down the OEmanonee to the Thames:— but, as I had no opportunity of ascertaining the fact; I can say nothing on the subject.— The timber is good, if it can be conveniently procured, should it ever be wanted. The day was far spent, when we reached the plain. We walked on till the sun was nearly set, when we stopt, and prepared for the night.— The servants who had the provisions to carry, were very tired. There were no Huts on the plain, nor any inhabitants: and we were therefore compelled to take up our lodging in the open air. I was very weary having had no rest the preceding night, and having come a long day’s journey, so that I felt that rest would be very acceptable even on a heap of fern, or on any thing else— The peculiar scene, that surrounded me, furnished the mind with new matter for contemplation on the works and ways of God; the mystery of his providence, and the still greater Mystery of his grace, were all unsearchable to me.— I had come from a distant country and was then at the ends of the earth, a solitary individual, resting on an extensive wild, upon which no civilized foot had, ever before, trodden. My companions were poor Savages, who [f] [in pencil - 1820] nevertheless vied with each other in their attention to me— I could not but feel attached to them— what would I have given to have had the Book of life opened, which was yet a sealed book, to them,— to have shewn them that God who made them, and to have led them to Calvary’s mount, that they might see the Redeemer who had shed his precious blood for the redemption of the world, and was there set up as an Ensign for the Nations! But it was not in my power to take the veil from their hearts.— I could only pray for them, and entreat the Father of Mercies to visit them with his Salvation. I felt very grateful that a divine Revelation had been granted to me; that I knew the Son of God had come; and believed, that He had made a full and sufficient sacrifice or Atonement for the sins of a guilty world! With compassionate feelings for my companions, under a grateful sense of my own mercies, I lay down to rest, free from all fear of danger! [in pencil - July] 21st We rose, this morning, at the dawn of day and immediately prepared for our journey. I felt much refreshed from the comfortable rest I had enjoyed.— We walked for two hours, and then sat down, made a fire, and cooked our breakfast— the day was favourable, and, our walk over the plain, pleasant; as the road was tolerably good, except where a few small swamps, produced by the Springs, intervened.— The land in this plain is, for the most part, fit for cultivation, and might easily be wrought by the plough. After we had walked a few miles, we observed five young women coming on towards us, who became alarmed, and turned back, on seeing us,— one of our party ran after, and overtook them, when they stopt [f] till we all came up, and they then informed us that “Aneenee”, one of the head chiefs, was gone on a war expedition to the southward, but, that his wife was at home, and “Aneenee” (a chief with whom Timmorangha had lately been at war.} After answering our inquiries, they started off before us, to inform the people of Towrangha of our coming. When we reached the high hills that overlook Towrangha (which lies about a mile distant between them) I sat down on the summit f one of the highest, to take a view of the Ocean, the islands in sight, and the main land around.— The prospect from this height is truly grand. — I observed one of the islands (distant 15 leagues from the main) sending up immense columns of smoke. I desired Timmorangha to give me some information respecting the islands in sight, the hills on the coast, and in the interior, as far as he knew: He satisfied me on these points, and then gave me an account of his last visit to Towrangha, as follows. “That the last time he came to Towrangha he was on a war expedition, which originated in the following circumstances: Some years before, a niece of his had been taken from “Bream-head” by a Brig from Port Jackson, and afterwards sold to a Chief of Towrangha named “Shewkoree” (who still resides there) and she became his slave. Shewkoree and another chief, named Awarree had some difference when this young woman was killed by A-warree or by some of his tribe, who roasted, and ate her body. Sometime afterwards Timmorangha got information of his Niece’s cruel fate, and felt himself bound to revenge her murder, (in justice to his departed relative and for the honour of his tribe) as soon as he could put himself in a condition to demand satisfaction of “Awarree”. [f] [in pencil - 1820 July 21] About sixteen years elapsed before he thought himself strong enough to attack this Chief. He had also a sister, taken by the same vessel from the Bay of Islands, who was used in a similar manner at a place further to the southward, whose death he had revenged — before that of his niece.— (I mentioned the taking of the women in a former statement.) It was not till January (in the ear I now write of) he mustered a force of 600 men— vizt 200 of his own tribe, 200 from Bay of Islands, and the other 200 from Bream-head ( the last 400 were auxiliaries)— he proceeded, with this force, to Towrangha, and landed on an Island, at the mouth of the Bay. A-warree came out in his Canoe to know what had brought him to Towrangha— Timmorangha replied that, Awarree had killed, roasted and eaten his Niece, and he had come to demand satisfaction for that offence, and wished to know what he was disposed to offer on that account. A-warree said “If that be the object of your expedition, the only satisfaction I will give, will be, to kill, roast, and eat you also.” This gross insult, roused the angry feelings of Timmorangha who instantly appealed to arms, for the settlement of the dispute.— A-warree stated “he was ready and would fight him that day— Timmorangha declined engaging that day, but was most willing to meet him on the day following, to which, the other agreed.— The ground on which they were to meet was settled on;— (it was a level spot opposite to where Captain Cook anchored, as pointed out to me, by Timmorangha)— The Parties met, at the time and place appointed: and, when they had both drawn up their forces respectively:— Timmorangha [f] directed his men not to fire their muskets till he gave the word of command— He had 35 muskets while Awarree depended solely on spears and patooes. Awarree made the first onset with a shower of spears, in which Timmorangha had one of his officers wounded; he then ordered his men to fire and twenty of Awarree’s men dropt dead at the first round; among whom were two chiefs “Newkopanga”, Awarree’s father, and “Koponer”. On the fall of these chiefs, Awarree’s men got into disorder, and ran off the field of Battle. Timmorangha commanded his men to halt and not pursue the flying enemy: saying he was satisfied with the sacrifice made by the death of the two chiefs, and had no wish to shed more blood. His allies were, however, displeased with his lenity: and the chiefs called a council of war, which passed a censure on Timmorangha’s conduct, for not following up the advantae he had gained.— They contended that, if the death of the two chiefs was satisfaction enough, to Timmorangha for the murder of his niece; yet, the gross and unprovoked insult, offered in the most insolent manner by Awaree to Timmorangha, at their first interview,— remained unavenged. And as it was an insult, which no chief ought to endure from another, they recommended to renew the attack. Timmorangha wished first to know how Awaree was disposed who, after the death of his father, might readily come to terms of peace. For this purpose, he left the camp, to gain information of Awaree, who had fled with his men.— Timmorangha fell in with Awarree’s wife, his children, and some of his friends, to the [f] number of thirty in all, and brought them into his camp, under an assurance of personal safety.— He enquired where their Potatoe store houses were— from which (after they were pointed out by Awarree’s wife) he and his men took a supply. He then learned from Awarree’s wife and friends that, Awarree was, by no means inclined for Peace: and, while he and the chiefs of his party were in consultation, next day, it was discovered hat Awarree had rallied his forces, and was actually coming down against them— They flew to arms, made an attack and in a very short time, (by the aid of their muskets) numbers of the enemy were slain— the whole thrown into confusion, routed, and pursued till many were driven into the sea, and perished there.— Between three and four hundred were left dead on the field and about two hundred and sixty taken prisoners of war—— of the latter, two hundred fell to the share of the Chiefs, at the Bay of Islands. (part of them we saw landed at Rangheehoo on 2d March) and the other sixty, to the Chiefs of Bream Head. A-warree was now completely conquered, he fled to the woods with the few men he had left— Timmorangha went in search of him, and when he, at length, discovered his retreat— asked him, if he was now willing to submit, reminding him, at the same time, of the insolent language he had used at their first meeting. Awarree acknowledged he was conquered, and said, he had no Idea that muskets would have produced such effects— and had, till now, dispised them as instruments of war— but, experience convinced him of their efficacy and power, and he therefore submitted. [f] He enquired if Timmorangha could give him any information respecting his wife and children. The other told him they were all safe in the camp and would be delivered over to himself, if he would accompany him for that purpose.— Awarree expressed a grateful sense of Timmorangha’s kindness in sparing their lives: and promptly attended him to the Camp of the Allies— and received them there, in safety, as Timmorangha had promised.— He then observed, that he was much distressed for the death of his father, and solicited some compensation for his great loss.— Timmorangha gave him a Musket, and the other Chiefs made him also some presents which satisfied him— and he returned home with his wife, children and several friends, who had all been preserved under Timmorangha’s word of honour.— The conquerors remained three days on the field of battle, feeding upon the slain: and then sailed with their prisoners of war (taking Awarree’s Canoes also) to the Bay of Islands.— This fleet, of canoes, got to the Bay three days after the “Dromedary” arrived in New Zealand. When I had noted down the foregoing statement, from Timmorangha,— he asked me if I intended to send it to England— I replied in the affirmative.— He said he was afraid, that when these things were publicly [known] in Europe, and he should afterwards go on board an English ship, they would put him to death. I assured him that the custom of eating human flesh was condemned by all nations, and, New Zealanders were dreaded by all Europeans on that account— but, they would not kill him, merely because the habits of his country were bad. [f] (I beg to observe here that I noted these particulars while we sat on the Hill near which the Battle was fought: and on our return to the “Coromandel” I reviewed my notes with Timmorangha by my side in order to have the facts repeated from his own mouth and more correctly set down.)— When we had finished this interesting conversation on the hill, we walked down to the Settlement, and first visited the residence of the Head Chief, “A-nee-nee”, whose wife gave us a cordial reception, and appropriated one of the best Huts for our accommodation, as also a new mat for me to lie on &c. Provisions in abundance for our whole party were immediately got ready; and we spent the evening very pleasantly.— Most of the inhabitants came to see us, composed chiefly of women and children; as a number of the men, had gone to war.— I arranged the children in a row, and gave each of them a fish-hook, which they considered a great present.— I also made Mrs A-nee-nee a present of some edge tools, for her husband’s use when he returned from the war.— As far as I could learn, no ships had been at Towrangha since Captain Cook was there: and I saw an old Chief who remembered seeing that great Navigator.— The people are in great want of tools, of every kind; as no Europeans visit the settlement; though, from the quantity of Potatoes and Pork we saw, ships might easily be supplied with provisions in exchange for the articles required.— We enquired after A-warree, and Mrs A-nee-nee informed us he had gone to war, but, that his brother “Awerree” was at home. These two were the opponents of my friend Timmorangha who had not seen any of them, since the day of battle; and he now urged me to see Awerree in order to make a final reconciliation between them— I promised to do so, in the morning [f] which quieted his mind.— I asked Timmorangha if he was not really afraid that Awerree would take advantage of him, now, that he was alone:— he said— No! but he wished for an opportunity to talk over their past differences and thought if I spoke to that chief, a reconciliation might easily be effected.— 22d— Early in the morning we had a number of visitors— Awerree came in full dress, with a party of his friends,— they sat down in a row, according to their rank; but, they were all strangers to me.— Timmorangha whispered that Awerree had arrived, and pointed him out.— He appeared to be a very stout, well made man; dressed in the costume of his country,— his hair neatly tied up, and in his hand, he held a Patoo (about six feet long)— made of the jawbone of a whale. Timmorangha requested me to take his arm, and walk up with him to Awerree’s seat so as to introduce the subject of his wishes in a convenient manner.— I complied with this request, and having stated to Awerree, that it was my particular desire, as well as that of Timmorangha, to have a proper understanding and a mutual friendship, for the future, established between them; and hoped to find him equally inclined to a reconciliation.— He said he was very willing to meet Timmorangha, on terms of peace.— They then publickly, discussed the subject, and finally settled, or agreed, that Awerree, should send a person of rank to reside with Timmorangha: and that the latter should also send a man of similar rank to live with Awerree.— A speech from Awerree followed, in which [f] he informed the assembly, that there existed no more differences between the two tribes, and that they were to consider each other as mutual friends, in future.— The two chiefs then sat down together as allies, and friends.— Awerree presented me with his Patoopattoo (which I sent by Captain Downie of the ship Coromandel, to the Museum of the Church Missionary Society)— I invited Awerree to see the Coromandel, and made him a present of some necessary tools.— Timmorangha expressed himself much gratified with the observations Awerree had made in his speech to the people; and they both appeared very happy. Awerree excused himself from their accompanying us to the ship; as his wife was near her confinement, and he was unwilling to be absent lest any thing should happen but, that he would afterwards go to the Thames and see the Coromandel, and, in two or three moons, he intended to visit Timmorangha.— I told him that, as they were so much in want of axes, hoes &c, if he would set his people to making mats, and, when made, send them to Timmorangha, who would forward them to me; I would send them tools in exchange. They all highly approved of this proposal, and Timmorangha promised to act as their agent at the Bay of Islands.— I wished to remain with these friendly people two days, but, as the weather appeared before mid-day, to threaten rain, I was apprehensive that, if much fell, we would not be able to ford the river O Emanonee; and I therefore intimated my intention to return without delay— They urged me much to remain a few days but admitted that we could not ford the river, if there was a fall of rain; for which reason, they yielded to my wishes.— We were now furnished [f] with more provisions, by these kind people, than we could either carry or consume, on our journey:— and Mrs Anee-nee, in consequence, sent two slaves to assist in carrying what our servants could not take. On our departure, the people accompanied us up the Hill, with songs and dances.— Here we met a chief and his wife belonging to Tipporari (the Hippah before mentioned) who accompanied us onward.— Before dark we reached that part of the plain, on which we had lodged, and having made a sort of shade of brush wood, to shelter us from the rain (which now began to fall), we remained here all night.— 23rd— As soon as the day returned we prepared again for our journey.—I mist the chief’s wife of Tippovari and her servant woman— on enquiry I found they had gone off very early in order to prepare dinner at their Hippah; the chief having invited us to dinner, as we past.— We reached the Hippah about 2 p.m. by which time, the Lady had prepared a plentiful meal, and had her Slaves ready to attend us.— In this Hippah I observed sveral sepulchres carved, painted, and ornamented with feathers. Some of them must have cost considerable labour— I took particular notice of one, which stood near where we dined, and, on enquiring whose sepulchre it was, I was informed that one of the chiefs wives, who had blown up with Gunpowder, was deposited in it. At the time of our stay here, an old Chief had just died; and a number of people had assembled to mourn over him.— After we had dined we took our leave of the hospitable chief [f] and his wife, and made the best of our way to Awaugh’s residence, where we intended to rest for the night— Awaugh, myself and three of our companions arrived a little after dark— very weary, having had a long day’s journey— We saw none of the rest of our party till day light next morning— they were too fatigued to reach the end of the journey and had rested by the way— 24th— As the tide answered early for going down the river, we took our leave of this fine youth, who seemed to possess every natural endowment for making a great man, and a good member of Society— provided the means of improvement were within his reach.— I invited him to come on board the Coromandel, and he promised to pay me a visit— The distance of his residence from the ship, may be about seventy miles.— After leaving Awaugh we proceeded down the Thames, with a strong tide and stream, arising from the preceding rains, and arrived about midnight at the place, where the men from the ship, were cutting spars.— It had rained heavy during the evening, and still continued so that we were both wet and cold. I found the two Huts, which were erected before I went to Towrangha, had been burnt by accident, and the things I had left, with Mr Emery, consumed in the flames; among these, I regretted the loss of some fine mats. By this accident I was deprived of a place to sleep in, as the hut just put up was too small to afford me any accommodation, and I was therefore compelled to sit up till the return of day.— The Launch-boat from [f] the Coromandel had also come up that evening with provisions for the workmen; and Mr Anderson informed me, it was his intention to proceed, in the morning, to the west side of the river in search of spars. I therefore embraced this opportunity of crossing the river in the Launch, to visit Kiperro.— After a cold wet and uncomfortable night— The morning (of the 25th) returned with a fair wind (but the weather continued stormy and wet)— We sailed in the Launch from the east shore, and got well over to the west side, when we ran up a river (called “Wyeroni”) on which there are a number of small Islands. We anchored under one of them during the night— A Native on board, informed Mr Anderson, that there were some fine spars up a river called the “Wyetematta” which fell into the Wyeroni; and this determined Mr Anderson to run up for the Wyteematta the following day.— 26th We accordingly sailed up that river in the morning with as strong and as fair a breeze as the boat could carry— The Wyteematta is in some places, five and six miles in breadth, and of sufficient depth of water for large ships— This great river runs direct to the west side of New Zealand— At 5 P.M. we anchored in five fathom water, so near the shore, that we tied the Launch to a tree.— There were some very fine spars, but not long enough, for first rate men of war.— I supposed that here, we were not much less than fifty miles from the ship.— We remained here all night and although I now was a considerable way on my route to Kiperro, I felt at a loss how to proceed; for want of a canoe, as we had passed all the villages.— [f] 27th Early this morning we heard the report of three muskets, and soon after observed a canoe, full of Natives, making towards us.— When they came up, we found the party to consist of a Chief from Kiperro, with some of his people, and “Enakkee” a chief of Moguer belonging to a settlement on the west side of the Thames— After informing them of our design in coming up this river,”Kowhow”, the chief of Kiperro, said the land on the Wyeteematta belonged to him but, if any of the timber on it, would answer our purpose, he would readily give it;— observing that there was much more, on other branches of the river— Mr Anderson said he would remain, at the place we occupied, all day, to examine the woods adjoining it, and that he would not go far from Wyeroa for three days; as he intended to visit Magoea before he returned to the Coromandel.— I then inquired how far we were from Kiperra, and whether I could walk there in one day, or not— Kowhow informed me I could walk it in that time, and if I was willing, he would accompany me— Mr Ewels (Government Timber purveyor) said he would join us.— Kowhow therefore ordered thirteen men to prepare the Canoe and to attend us— In a few minutes we left the Launch,— proceeded about eight miles further up the river, and landed at a spot, from which, we could see the high-land Hills on the western shores of New Zealand— apparently at the distance of 18 to 20 miles. We walked, from this spot, very smartly, in order to reach our destination before dark— our road lay through one continued plain— [f] which is free from timber, and has little or no rising ground till it reaches Kiperra.— We had to cross one stream of water, about 8 miles from the place we landed last, which, being too deep to ford, exercised the ingenuity of the Natives to get all over safely: The most active swam across, cut down some spars, and lashed them together; they then made a rope, of native flax, which they fixed to tree roots, on both sides, to serve as a hand rail; & by these contrivances we got safe over.— This stream forms a branch of the Kiperro river: and from it, we dispatched a messenger to Kowhow’s friends to give notice of our approach:— and by sun down, we arrived at the first village, where, a great abundance of sweet Potatoes were provided for our use.— Among other choice food here, a Cat had been roasted, and, as an inducement for us to partake of it, they assured us, it was an English one— this we knew, for we had seen it in a basket during our journey; but we were not, on that account, the more inclined to eat of such a dish.— On our arrival we found the Chief’s brother lying under a shed unable to stand from the wound of a spear, which, I understand, he had received some considerable time before.— Kowhow and two others of our attendants, made great lamentations over him, and wept aloud.— The place where he lay, and some distance round his shed was tabooed.— His wife and a pretty little girl were set apart to attend him; and no other person was permitted to tread upon the sacred ground, excepting myself & Mr Ewels— [f] I sat down by the side of this poor afflicted warrior.— he showed me his thigh, the flesh was wasted away, and he had no power to move it.— We gave him a little tea, which he relished very much— they all seemed to feel much for his affliction. We spent the evening in conversing upon the dreadful calamities of war, and the advantages of Agriculture and Commerce &c.— Subjects, on which, they were anxious to gain instruction.— Kowhow shewed great aversion to war,— reprobated the conduct of many of his country men— Stated how many people of Kiperro, had been destroyed and cut off by war;— that they had been fighting for years with the Napoees, and the tribes in the Bay of Islands, and that the Napoees were then in the districts of Kiperro plundering, and murdering the inhabitants.— I lamented these public calamities, and expressed a hope, that when more Europeans should come to reside among them, an end would be put to such unnatural contests— 28th Next morning Mr Ewels, and a chief accompanied me to the Sand Hills in order to view the western shores, and the ocean in that quarter— We past, on our way, a Hippah situated on a Commanding spot: but the chief told us, it afforded them little protection against their enemies, since the introduction of fire arms, to their country. He shewed us where the balls had been fired upon the Hippah; and remarked that the distance from which they were fired, was too great to throw spears in return, with any effect.— The Sand Hills are very high, and broad, and command a very extensive prospect, on the [f] sea and of the interior.— No vegetation appears on them, and the Sand shifts with the contend[ing] winds. They are several miles in breadth, and extend along the coast, further than the eye can reach, to the right and left of the spot where on we stood. We saw the rivers running from the interior into the harbour of Kiperro, but we could not see the harbour itself nor the entrance into it.— It lay to the northward many miles under the high Lands.— As our time would not allow of visiting the harbour of Kiperro (which would have taken several days) we determined to return to the Wyeteematta immediately, in order to secure a passage in the Launch, to the Coromandel.— On the sand hills we met a young man about 24 years old, of a fair complexion, with light hair— (his Master was with him)— I saw he was a European, or of a European parent, by his countenance and I put the question to his Master, who said, his father was a European and that he had him originally from the Bay of Islands— I wished to redeem him with a view to send him to the Missionary Settlement for instruction, but his Master did not seem willing to part with him.— We now returned to the village where, we found Kowhow and the two young men (who had, on the preceding evening, made such bitter lamentations over the afflicted chief) had been cutting themselves till their faces were covered with blood, and had renewed their mournful cries.— Kowhow requested me to pray to our God for the poor distressed man.— I promised to do so and observed, that [f] there was but one God, and that our God was their God also.— I went up to the sick man’s shed and knelt down— He crept out on his hands and laid himself down on his side, uncovering his thigh, and, laying his hand upon the affected part, looked wistfully at me, as if he thought I had the power to heal him— His conduct called to my recollection what Naaman the Syrian Leper thought of the prophet, namely, that “he (the prophet) would stand and call upon the Lord his God, and strike his hand over the sores and so recover the leper”— The Ideas of the wounded Chief and those of Naaman, appeared to me to bear a great similarity to each other.— After I performed this duty, which deeply impressed my own mind, under the peculiar circumstances, I was called upon to address the Father of all mankind; who is gracious to every man, and whose “tender mercies are over all his works”. I told Kowhow that it was my intention to return that day. He urged me to stay one day more, saying he was very weary, and could not well go back with me, till he had recovered from his fatigue.— I observed, that if I did not go I would lose my passage to the Ship, and should then be deprived of the means to return, as a Canoe could not cross the river in the then unsettled state of the weather.— He saw the force of this argument, and said tho’ he was tired, he would go back with us, and we immediately took leave of the sick chief, and his people; and proceeded on our journey— Several Slaves were [f] sent to carry potatoes for our use.— The wind was very strong and blew right in our faces, which, as the plain was quite open, rendered our walk very unpleasant. Just at dark we arrived at the wharf where we had, before, left the canoe.— It now began to rain, and continued to blow very hard; and, as we had no tents, we made the best screen we could, of the fern, and so remained till morning, tho’ the cold and rain, gave us but little rest. From the tempestuous night the Natives frequently informed us that we should not be able to get down the river, as the water would be too rough. 30th— When the day returned, we had no prospect of leaving our uncomfortable quarters, as the storm continued violent.— About 8 A.M., however, the weather began to moderate, and we purposed to embark.— We had a set of very fine young men to manage the Canoe, on whom we, at length, prevailed to venture— We had appointed to meet Mr Anderson, at Magoer, that evening— which was about thirty miles distant. Kowhow repeatedly said, we would not reach Magoer before the following day, (the water being so very rough & the wind against us)— But, after pulling very hard for three hours, we got sight of the Launch which animated our crew, and inspired them with fresh courage— they now exerted all their Strength to reach her— she was, however, too far off and labour was in vain: for, in the afternoon the wind increased with a heavy high Sea which compelled us to make for the shore.— We then inquired if we could [f] go by land to Magoea: the Natives said we could, but, it was too far to walk: we resolved however to try our strength, and we ultimately succeeded in getting to Magoer that evening, where we met our friends, and took up our Lodgings in the Launch— and, tho’ a boat does not afford the best accommodation for weary travellers, we enjoyed the pleasure of some gratulatory meetings, with a grateful sense of many mercies.— 31st— This morning I felt myself much refreshed and the first business I attended to, was the paying of the Chief of Kiperro and his men, for their kind attention to us— This I did by giving them Axes, plane Irons &c to their great satisfaction as they never possessed so much wealth before.— Kowhow requested he might be permitted to visit the Coromandel, I asked Mr Anderson’s permission to take him which he kindly granted.— As soon as the supplies of potatoes &c (purchased by Mr A.) were put into the Launch, we sailed from Magoea. “E-nak-kee”, the chief who was at war with Tippoohee, accompanied us. I promised Tippoohee, that I would use my influence with Enakkee, to bring about a reconciliation between them; which I hoped to accomplish when I got the latter on board the Coromandel.— Tho’ we sailed early, night came on before we got out of the Wyeroa, into the Thames: and we therefore anchored under one of the Islands for the night. Aug: 1st. This morning it rained and blew hard, and the atmosphere was so dark and cloudy that we could not see the high land on [f] the opposite shore of the Thames. After breakfast, we made sail for the ship, with a fair wind, and arrived on board, about 3 p.m.— I had been 21 days from the Coromandel during which I had slept in my clothes and generally in the open air, or in a canoe or boat, and the weather, for the most part of the time, had been wet and Stormy— I had also crossed many swamps, creeks, and rivers, from Towrangha on the east side, to Kiperro on the west— Yet, during the whole time, (through the kind providence of God) I was preserved in health, and met with no accident, nor any unpleasant circumstance to annoy me— on the contrary, I had been highly gratified with the journey, and returned to the Coromandel in health and safety— I hope my visit to the different tribes may prove a means of future good— I endeavoured in every place, to explain the true nature of the Deity to the Natives— namely, that there is but one true and living God, who made all things, and upholds them by his power.— And that our God is also their God.— That the tabooing of themselves, their houses, Fires, food, and all other things, could neither heal their wounds, preserve them from danger and death, nor restore them to health, when sick: but that our God, tho’ they knew him not, could do all these things for them— They all wished for Europeans to reside among them: and, my constant companion Timmorangha strongly recommended the chiefs every where, to leave off fighting— reminding them how often their wives and children were deprived of food, by the destruction of the potatoe crops in their mutual contests and from the same cause many wives were left widows and their children fatherless.— The usual reply is that they are aware [f] of the miseries brought on by war, but that some chiefs would never give over fighting— Their fathers and forefathers were all fighting men— I have no doubt, however, but these partially discussed subjects will occasionally lead to useful reflection and bring on conversations tending to enlighten and enlarge their minds.— Being once more on board the Coromandel and having got Enakkee with me, I wished to fulfil my promise to Tippoohee, by an effort to reconcile the parties. I therefore requested Enakkee to acquaint me with the cause of quarrel between them— He stated (as he had done once before) that his father had been on the east side of the Thames in his canoe, which was upset in a squall, and he, as well as his crew, were drowned.— He, Enakkee, subsequently learned, that the bodies had drifted on shore, and were taken up and eaten by Tippoohee and his tribe:— for the insult, thus offered, to the remains of his father and friends he had declared against Tippoohee. I admitted that: if such was the fact of the case, Tippoohee’s conduct was very bad:— but their killing one another would only increase the calamity: and I wished him to meet Tippoohee on board: and we should hear what he had to say on the charge prefered [sic] against him.— Enakkee consented: and, next morning, Captn Downie was so kind as to send Mr Anderson in his boat, for Tippohee, who came off with him on the following day.— When Enakkee saw Tippoohee approaching the ship, he instantly took a canoe and went on shore and I feared he would not again return— [f] When Tippoohee arrived, I informed him of what Enakkee alleged against him— He said he knew that Enakkee charged him and his tribe with finding, and eating the persons alluded to— but, the charge was groundless as the bodies were destroyed in the water; and never came to the shore: that the false report was made to Enakkee, by the Areakee, out of revenge, in consequence of a quarrel between the Arekee’s people and his (Tippoohee’s) men about cockles and thatch, in which case, each chief justified his own tribe: and the Arakee propagated this malicious report— which caused Enakkee to declare war on him in which, a brother of his own, and several people had already been killed.— Tippoohee did not think that Enakkee would return, or come to any accommodation with him— Enakkee, however, did return about an hour afterwards; and, when he came on deck, sat down opposite to Tippoohee, who also was sitting; but, neither of them spoke for a considerable time.— I was going to address them, when Timmorangha requested me not to interfere then, but leave them to their own feelings.— Their looks portrayed contending passions, and when, at last, they broke silence; it was in a sneering, contemptuous manner, which gradually increased to open reproachful terms, till they mutually advanced to each other in apparent rage, as if they were about coming to blows.— Timmorangha and Towreka (who were also on deck) put in a word now and then, between them, the effects of which, we did not perceive— till they became more cool,— and at length a reconciliation [f] took place; when, Captain Downie invited them both into the cabin, where they eat and drank together as friends, to the great satisfaction of all present.— I was informed by Captain Downie (after my return to the ship) that Arekee was going to kill “Amoppa” (a subordinate chief of the Bay) and take his head off, for stealing a mat from the Arekee’s son. This intelligence as confirmed by Towretta, who said that the Arekee had, for several days past, been preparing spears, and other instruments of war, for that purpose.— Amoppa came and begged me to intercede with the Arekee on his behalf— and I therefore requested Towretta to go to the Arekee, with a message from me, conveying my earnest desire for peace between them; and to use all his own (Towretta’s) influence to bring about an accommodation, before any battle took place. A few days after, I received a reply from the Arekee, thro’ Towretta and Timmorangha to say that, he would not put Amoppa to death; but that their difference must be settled at a public meeting.— Early on the morning of the 11th (before I was up) Amoppa called at my cabin window to inform me that the meeting between the Arekee and him, was to take place that day; and requested I would attend.— Mr Hume, the Surgeon, Mr Hilliard, the captain’s clerk, and Mr James Downie accompanied me (after breakfast) in one of the Ship’s boats; and Amoppa [f] who had remained alongside, followed us, with his Native friends, in 16 Canoes. The Arekee was at the head of the cove, three miles off, and prepared to receive us. Amoppa’s men were all armed, as were also those of the Arekee, some with muskets, and others, with the usual Native weapons. Amoppa drew up his canoes in a line— when his men leaped into the water, all naked, and ran in a close body towards the Beach, like so many furies, with their spears ready for an attack.— After they had gone through their military evolutions, and war dance; the Arekee’s party went through a similar ceremony, ending as usual, with the war dance. The offence alleged against Amoppa was then publicly discussed by the leading men of both sides.— Some spoke with great warmth and feeling, while, the principal interested parties listened attentively to the speakers, who made lengthy speeches.— We understood the conclusion they came to at last, was, tht Amoppa should give the Arekee a canoe, and one Slave, as an atonement for his crime.— Thus all differences among the Chiefs, at the Thames, were adjusted and mutual harmony again restored.— I now determined on leaving the Thames the following day, as I had given up all hopes of the Schooner’s arrival; Enakkee promised to furnish me with a good Canoe and to go with me to the Bay of Islands.— I was very happy that no differences had, as yet, taken place between the Europeans of the ship, and the Natives: and I hoped that a good understanding would continue while the Coromandel remained.— When we had got on board (after witnessing the foregoing transaction) Timmorangha came, in great agitation, to acquaint me, that [f] when he was at the Thames, on a former occasion, a chief had then given him a Maree (one of the war instruments) to sell for him and to get him an axe in return— this instrument was made of Talc, which they highly value. Timmorangha got only a small tomahawk for it, which he considered to be, much below its real value.— The chief (who employed him) was very angry; and sent him notice, that if he did not procure an axe, the Priest should be engaged to kill him by incantation. Poor Timmorangha wished to assure me, that he would surely die, if the Chief put his threat in execution; and begged an axe to save his life.— I endeavoured to convince him of the absurdity of such a notion; but to no purpose, he still persisted that he would die; maintaining that the Priest possessed such power, and, the better to convince me of this Idea, he drew the supposed lines of incantation upon the deck, to show how the operation was performed.— He also said, that the chief’s Messenger was waiting alongside for his answer.— Finding it useless to argue the case further with him; I gave the axe, which with the greatest joy, he delivered to the messenger with a request that the, aforesaid, chief would be satisfied and proceed no further against him.— Such are the Strong Chains of superstition, with which the Prince of darkness binds these poor heathen captives.— What an infinite blessing will divine revelation be, to the Inhabitants of New Zealand, when its glorious light, shall have broken in upon them.— At present their minds are tormented, by the most painful (but groundless) fears— on the slightest [f] occurrences which they deem offensive to their false God: and their bodies also suffer severely, from their ceremonial observances of superstitious rites— from the influence which Satan exercises over their minds.— I have known a Native to say that his God would kill him, because I had simply taken some of his fire, to kindle another— (without knowing myself that such an action could possibly hurt his mind) and I am persuaded that he firmly believed such would be his end, from the agitated state in which he appeared— yet, strange to say, that very man thought it no offence or crime (under certain circumstances) to kill and eat his fellow creatures.— I never met a New Zealander, that did not consider (his) God, as a vindictive Being— ready at all times to punish and afflict them— especially if guilty of any neglect or omission in their sacred rites. Hence they labour to avert his anger by every species of self denial and mortification— One Chief, I had known, burnt down his house, which had been neatly built, and ornamented with carved work, in hopes of appeasing the anger of his God.— I had visited him (before that occurrence) and admired the neatness and beauty of his premises: but, on my going a second time to the place, not a vestage remained, and I then learned, the fact here related— namely, that his house was sacrificed to Pacify his God. On the morning of the 12th I took leave of Captain Downie and proceeded in the Launch to the western side of the Thames which, in the place opposite to the anchorage of the ship, was about 15 miles broad— I intended, after crossing here, to go on to [f] Mogoae (before mentioned) there to procure a canoe; and then proceed to Bay of Islands. On stepping into the Launch, from the ship, for the journey proposed, I observed a woman coiled up under a mat, and was informed, she was the wife of a Chief who had gone to War; and that she had formed an attachment to Timmorangha, and had a design to accompany him to Bay of Islands.— I immediately requested Mr Anderson (the 2d Master) to order this Lady out of the Launch and told Timmorangha that no women of her character would be allowed to go with me.— She was another man’s wife and must be left behind at her proper home: lest that, when her husband returned and found her gone, he should blame the Europeans.— Timmorangha made no objections to her being put out of the Boat; he said it was her own wish to go with him.— She was then ordered out, but she would not move: and the sailors were directed to put her out by force— she made all the resistence in her power, but, was at length put into a canoe, and the Launch immediately moved off— We had scarcely got two hundred yards from the ship, when we observed this Lady swimming after us, making every exertion to reach the Launch— Timmorangha was much agitated now, called out to me that she would be drowned, and begged the Boat might be put back, to save her life. I again told him she was a bad character, and we would not put back for her; and that he need not be alarmed, for she would return to the ship, when she found her efforts to gain the Launch were in vain.— She soon saw herself [f] losing ground very fast, and we observed her return towards the Coromandel, which relieved Timmarangha of his anxiety. Our passage across the Thames was very pleasant, and we anchored at Mogoea, the same evening, which is between forty and fifty miles distance from the ship. As it was near midnight when we arrived, I remained on board till morning tho’ it was very cold. Enakkee (one of the principal chiefs of Mogoea) had accompanied us with an intention of conveying me in his canoe to the Bay of Islands.— 13th This morning Enakkee’s son with several of the Natives came off to the Launch, which lay about four miles from the settlement; when his father went on shore.— Enakkee is a great warrior, and a very fine, tall, and handsome man, who has been in many actions. Mr Anderson and I had the curiosity to count the scars on his body, received through spear wounds &c— they amounted to fifty; one of his front teeth had been knocked out, and another broke by a Patoo-patoo. After breakfast, Mr Anderson, accompanied me to Morgaea— It us a very populous settlement and contains the finest race of people, I had seen in New Zealand. They are very healthy, and their houses better, than most I had met with.— Their Stores are full of Potatoes, containing some thousands of Bushels; and they had also very fine hogs. The soil is uncommonly rich, and easily cultivated— The women and children were numerous but, most of the fighting men had gone on a war [f] expedition to the Southwards. After visiting the different chiefs I returned on board the Launch for my Luggage: and, on landing again, Enakkee provided a good Hut for me, and my Native companions, and he also plentifully supplied us with such food as they had. I met here two chiefs from Kiperra one of whom, was considered a great priest his name was “Moodeeokow” and the other’s “Arvye”. They expressed regret that they had not seen me at Kiperro, when I was there, observing that a number of people had assembled, at the place I had stopt at, in that village, in hopes of seeing me, before I left; but were grieved and disappointed on finding that I had gone to the ship. I endeavoured to convince them, I was as much disappointed as they could be— because I wished to have seen them all, if my time had permitted.— The Priest appeared to be of a remarkable mild disposition, and so was the other chief, we spent the evening in agreeable conversation on various subjects.— The Hut I occupied was crowded with the Natives, and a great number stood round the outside. I told Enakkee that I wished to sail for Bay of Islands early next morning— He said this would be impossible as the canoe would require a thorough repair, before he could venture to sea at this season of the year; and that it would take two days to make her ready.— This information was very mortifying to me, as I was anxious to return in time, lest I should lose my passage in the schooner should she come again to the Dromedary. [f] I however had no alternative, and was compelled to submit to the necessity of my Situation. On the morning of the 14th I accompanied Enakkee, some other chiefs and workmen, to examine the canoe, and set about the necessary repairs. The canoe was about 60 feet long, and very commodious, being designed for war. Enakkee and his men, set immediately to work. They took it all to pieces, in order to make it as strong and complete, as it was on the first day it was Launched.— In the course of the day we were visited by several Chiefs from remote parts of the Southward Settlements, several of them lent their assistance in repairing the canoe, so that by the evening they had put a great part of her together again. The weather was so wet and stormy, that, if the canoe had been ready we could not have then put to sea. I past part of the day in walking through the Potatoe grounds on which a number of slaves were at work. Near the settlement there is a very high Hill, which commands a very extensive prospect.— Its top and sides have every appearance of its having been the production of some volcanic eruption. On the east side, the flat land, for the distance of nearly a mile, is covered with stones of various dimensions, very hard, of a dark grey colour, and full of holes.— Some of them appear very much burnt. The soil among the stones, and where there are none, is a very rich dark brown [f] loam, and fit for all the purposes of vegetation. Agriculture, by the plough might be carried on here to a considerable extent, as a pair of horses would easily work the greater part of the ground. They have no grain of any kind. Sweet and common potatoes, Turnips, and Cabbages constitute their principal food.— After I had returned from my walk and the Natives from their Labour, the evening was spent till a late hour, in conversing on Agriculture, commerce, and civil Government- Religion &c.— Subjects, they seem anxious to understand.— 15th — Enakkee and his people worked on at the Canoe and by the evening, (with constant labour) they had her repaired, neatly painted, and all finished, excepting a few ornaments of Feathers for the head and stern.— The weather was very stormy, and, from all appearance, was likely to continue so. Enakkee informed me, that I might not be able to put to sea for a month or more, on account of the weather.— This news I was not prepared to hear, and it made me fearful of losing my passage to Port Jackson— and I had besides only a few days provisions. I therefore resolved to walk to the Bay of Islands, and to leave Mogoea the following day, for that purpose. I communicated my intention to Enakkee, and wished to know from him, which way I should travel. He and all the other chiefs informed me, that I could not make my way to [the] Bay of Islands on the east side of New Zealand as the sea shore in many places was composed of nothing but high impassable rocks— [f] neither could I cross the rivers, nor head the Bays which ran into the sea, on that side. That, if I was determined to go, I must take my route by Kiperra on the west side, and strike off into the interior of the country in order to head the main rivers or Bays. My companion, Timmorangha, said, he would accompany me, and when we had made the western shore, we could pass up a river called “Wyeroa” to a settlement named “Monyakaiea” which would bring us within three or four days’ walk of the Missionary station, at Kiddeekiddee.— He further observed that the road from Monyakaiea, at this season of the ear, would be very difficult to travel on account of the heavy rains— that we should have a number of swamps to wade through, and one river, which, in rainy weather, was both deep and rapid.— The swamps I did not think any thing of but, the river which we should have to pass six times presented a difficulty I did not know how to overcome, as I could not swim— Timmorangha said they could carry me across it in a Hammock, as they carried the wounded from the field of Battle. This removed my objections in a moment, and I resolved to proceed without delay.— As Enakkee had prepared the canoe solely for my use, I thought it but just to pay him and his people for their labour— I therefore called them together; and delivered into his hands the whole payment, that he might satisfy every man according to his [f] rank and ability. They were all much pleased— Enakkee said, if I would only stay till the weather would allow him to put to Sea, he would man the Canoe with the ablest of his people and accompany me to the Bay of Islands and afterwards make me a present of the Canoe— I thanked him for his kindness but, could not accept his offer on account of the delay.— After all matters were finally arranged, we retired to rest.— 16th No prospect of a change in the weather this morning— The wind blew strong, accompanied with light rain. After breakfast, I collected my luggage, and opened my sea chest, to show Enakkee every article it contained, as I could not take it with me. I left it and some other articles, which he promised to bring to the Bay of Islands, when the weather permitted. I had received every attention from these people, and the chiefs assured me, that, if the Active or any other vessel touched at their settlements, they would pay every attention to the people who might be on board of them. It was this tribe that had the contest with the “Brothers” and “Trial” (two Brigs from Port Jackson) near Towrangha some years back, when six Europeans were killed, and (as they informed me) about 200 of them were shot.— The quarrel originated in some difference between the Masters of the vessels, and the Chiefs. The Natives were near cutting them both off: and one of the head chiefs was shot dead— his son, who stated the circumstances to me, was also wounded on that occasion, and [f] another had a ball still remaining in his arm from that affair.— The Chiefs belonging to Kiperro, had remained with me at Magoea, and were greatly rejoiced, that I had determined to pass thro’ their district, on my way to the Bay of Islands, and told me that they and their Servants would attend me to Kiperro. I now took my leave of these hospitable heathens (of Mogoea) hoping that the period was not far distant, when their vallies would be covered with corn, and the voice of true joy and gladness, be heard in their dreary dwellings; which have so long been the abode of darkness, superstition, and death! On leaving Magoea we crossed a neck of land to the river Wyeteematta (described in a former journey) and came to the wharf where the Chiefs had left their canoe. It had been taken away, and one of the slaves was dispatched to the next village to procure another.— He returned in about an hour after, with a very fine canoe, and several men— I agreed with the owner to take us up to the head of the river (above 20 miles) which proved an unpleasant trip.— The wind was high and strong, the water rough and agitated, in consequence of its great breadth, and a strong tide, which compelled us to keep in shore. It was dark before we reached the head of the river: and being very wet and cold, and having no huts or tents to shelter us; the Natives made a fire on the shore; and we remained in this uncomfortable situation all night. [f] 17th We proceeded on our journey, by the dawn of day, and after walking two hours, sat down to breakfast near a fresh water stream, and then continued our journey till we came to the first village, in the district of Kiperro (where I had spent one night in my former jaunt)— It was then about 2 p.m. and the Chief pressed me to stay till the following day. All my companions were tired, but I wished to go a few miles further towards Kiperro river, and it was with difficulty I prevailed on one chief to go with me, as they inclined to remain all night where they were.— Awye, the Kiperro chief, came with me, and I left the remainder of the party— We walked very fast over the Hill (alluded to before) and in three hours’ time came to a small fresh water lake, at the extremity of a wood, near a few Huts in which we found a Chief, his wife, and a few slaves. They were a very fine couple, and appeared to have been newly married.— The chief’s name was “Apoo”. He immediately got some fine potatoes dressed for us.— Fern root, Potatoes, and some wild fruit resembling the olive; appear to be all their articles of food.— The Hut was clean and neat & the floor was covered with a clean mat— They were all astonished to see me, as I believe, none of them had ever seen a white person before— We found it convenient to remain here all night and I had my wet clothes taken off, dried and put on again.— The chief was just beginning to clear a part of the wood for cultivation; which, as they have no proper tools, must be a most laborious operation. [f] Being much fatigued, by the long walk and bad weather, I took some refreshment, and lay down to rest, wrapt up in my great coat, under the Guardian care of Him who keepeth Israel— After I had been here a while, my companions dropt in one after the other, till they all arrived. Apoo supplied them all with plenty of food (such as it was) and they also retired to rest. 18th— As soon as day appeared, we prepared to lave this sequestered spot:— for miles around which, no human habitation was to be seen.— Apoo and his wife proposed to accompany us.— We past the beautiful little lake, and ascended the rising Sand Hills, which are soft, and loose like mountains of snow. There is not a tree, or shrub or any sort of vegetation for a long distance to break the stormy Blast, so that the Sand is continualy drifted about in heaps according to the wind.— There are no foot paths, or tracks in any direction to guide the weary traveller, whose footsteps, however deep, are instantly erased by the rolling sand.— As we crossed these hills and vallies of sand, we had now and then a very extensive view of the western Ocean on the one hand, and of the rivers which flow from the interior, on the other.— After two hours travelling we reached the head of a valley situated at the foot of one of the Sand hills.— In this valley stood Awye’s village, to which he had dispatched a messenger to inform his wife of my coming, & on getting to the village we found a number of people assembled, and waiting to see us— Awye’s wife, daughters, and slaves were full dressed, that is, clothed in their best mats and their heads ornamented with [f] feathers— They had prepared a great quantity of sweet and common potatoes, Fern roots (which are about the size of small turnips, and of which they are very fond). A shed had also been prepared and covered with clean fern straw, for us to sit on.— Here the Natives had a great feast, according to their custom.— There was a portion for me, another for Timmorangha and the party who constantly attended me,— dressed and placed before us, in small baskets.— In this manner, the whole was divided into parts: and after eating their fill, the surplus of each portion, was deposited in the baskets, in which they were respectively served, for the purpose of carrying it away; for, it is an invariable custom with the New Zealanders, when they visit each other, to take with them, what they cannot eat. The children were greatly alarmed and terrified, at my entrance into the village. They shrieked aloud, ran every where to hide themselves; screaming with all their might— one alarmed another of them, till terror spread thro’ the whole— If I had come from the invisible world, they could not have been more frightened.— The terrific impression upon their infant minds, at the first sight of a white person, was so strong as not to be removed by any attention on my part during my stay among them— Tho’ some of them attended me, with their parents, in my several visits— yet, if they caught my eye, but accidentily fixed on them they shrieked aloud, and nothing on my part could pacify them.— I had not met any thing like it before, in New Zealand: as their children in general, are open, free and familiar; anxious to show every little [f] attention in their power, to strangers— There can be no finer children, than those of this Island, in the world.— Their Parents are very indulgent, and they always appear cheerful, playful and happy and they are also very active and intelligent considering the circumstances under which they are placed.— After stopping a few hours with Awye and his friends, it was proposed that I should dine at the next village, where two great chiefs resided— namely “Amoka” and “Mowetta” the latter was reckoned a great warrior.— Every party, or individual, packed up the shares respectively of what remained of his or their provisions into the several baskets provided (as before stated) and we marched off to the village alluded to (about 3 or 4 miles’ walk). Our company now amounted to about fifty, including Apoo and his wife, the Priest and Awye.— We past through some very rich but hilly land: a number of slaves were preparing the ground for potatoes. When we came in sight of the place, the chiefs and their friends appeared ready to receive us, and we were hailed with loud acclamations.— The usual introductions and salutations being over, we all sat down in a shed: and shortly after I was seated, a chief presented me with a Cat, suspended from a long spear, by a cord; but not quite dead— I understood, he intended it to be dressed, as a delicacy, for my dinner— I told him that white people never eat cats nor dogs— that these were tabooed Animals, and never used as an article of food by Europeans.— [f] He immediately took the cat away: and they all seemed to think it strange, that we did not eat such things, as they deemed the most choice food— I told them we eat other animals which they have not seen, and that we also used the Hog for that purpose. I was afterwards presented with a large fat hog which Timmorangha killed in the English way, and his servants dressed it in the same manner— It was hung up on a tree as clean, as if it had been prepared for an English market. The New Zealanders do not kill their hogs by bleeding, but by a blow on the scull, and holding the head under water till the animal is strangled.— A number of chiefs soon assembled at this place, among whom was one named “Moodepangee” who is considered one of the greatest warriors in New Zealand.— I had often heard of him, from Duaterra, Tooi, and others He has been the rival of Shunghee and his tribe, for about twenty years.— Before the “Boyd” was taken at Whangaroa in 1809 Shunghee went against Moodeepanga with a great force— Moodeepanga defeated him,— Slew two of his brothers, wounded himself,— killed the greater part of his officers and men, and compelled him to save his life by flight.— The Chiefs on the south side of the Bay of Islands united their forces, after this, and went against Moodeepanga.— As they relied more upon their muskets than on their ordinary weapons of war Moodeepanga out generaled them, in the following manner. When the two armies met in the field; Moodeepanga, knowing that his enemy had muskets, directed his men, to wait the advance of their [f] opponents and when they were on the point of firing, to lie flat on the ground, until the muskets were discharged, and then rise up and rush upon them. This Stratagem succeeded, the enemy’s shot passed over his men without doing injury; and they instantly rushed upon them, threw the whole into disorder, and killed a number of their Chiefs; among whom were the Fathers of Wevea and King George— The Chiefs that escaped saved themselves by flight and returned home with only fifteen of their men; the rest were either killed or taken prisoners.— I have often heard the chiefs, who had escaped, speak of that Battle.— My friend Timmorangha has attended four war expeditions against Kiperra, in two of which he was defeated, and many of his friends slain, among whom was his Grandfather who, after being killed, was roasted and eaten (as a mental gratification) by the conquerors— Tho’ Timmorangha has been at war with most of the chiefs in these districts yet, he was treated with great respect where ever we came.— The different Battles— the places where they were fought,— who conquered, and who fell, as also what had been done with the bodies of the chiefs &c were frequent subjects of conversation. I met no family who had not had some members or branches of it, killed in Battle, and afterwards eaten by the enemy.— If any Chief fall into the hands of a tribe which he has opposed or injured, he is sure to be roasted and eaten: and after his flesh [f] is devoured, his bones will be preserved in the family as a memento of his note or rank— and be converted into fish-hooks, whistles or ornaments. The custom of eating their enemies is universal in the Island, but, its origin is too ancient to be traced— It is a subject of constant conversation with the principal families, I have visited, and tho’ they generally speak of it with a degree of horror and disgust— yet they expect this will be their fate in the end; as it has been that of their forefathers.— Wherever I heard the subject broached, I represented (to the parties), how much their national character suffered in the opinion of civilized nations from this horrid custom:— that, as no such thing was allowed in other countries, the whole world looked on the practice with abhorrence.— Many of them regretted it, as an evil to their country— saying that when their people knew better, they would do away with it,— observing also, that it was no new thing, it had always been practised in New Zealand.— If the head of a tribe be killed and eaten, the survivers (of that tribe) consider it the greatest disgrace which could befall them: and they, therefore, take the first opportunity to retaliate in the same way: which keeps up a continual animosity among them, and war, therefore, becomes their chief study, and most important trade. All these matters were, at this time, fully discussed between me, Moodeepangee, and the other chiefs, many of them are very intelligent men.— Moodeepangee is a man of very quick perceptions, and his mind was alive to [f] every observation.— His person of the middle stature— very dark complexion,— a fiery, keen and penetrating eye.— He appeared about 50 years of age: and from the expression of his countenance, and manly deportment, he cannot fail of commanding respect among his country men.— I had heard so much said of him for years; that meeting him thus was, to me, a great pleasure and satisfaction. he said, his residence was at some distance, but that he had come to pay his respects to me, as soon as he had heard of my arrival, and hoped he would see me at his village also— I told him how much I felt obliged by his marked attention, and that I would endeavour to pay him a visit on the following day.— Our conversation continued till dinner was anounced, when more than eighty persons arranged themselves on the ground, according to Rank.— The slaves placed a certain number of baskets of provisions before each family: and when all were satisfied, each family or person packed up what remained, into their baskets respectively for future use— as before observed. We resumed our conversation after dinner, on Religion, Government, and commerce &c— Superstition has a most unaccountable influence over this people.— Trees, old stumps of trees, every kind of rubbish, as well as their Huts and fires were tabooed, or made sacred in a peculiar manner which requires all their care and attention to preserve.— [f] They dreaded lest any part of the things allotted to me should touch their tabooed articles, which (as they believe and affirm) would cause their death:— on in their own words, “Their God would kill them.”— The Chiefs and their wives here, were (at this time) tabooed— They dared not touch any article of food with their own hands, and, if no one was at hand to serve them when they wished to eat, they were obliged to lie down, or stoop to the ground, in order to pick it up with their mouths. As the Principal Priest, Moodeakow had continued with me, from the time I first met him at Magoea; I took this opportunity of speaking to him, on the subject of “tabooing”: and began by observing, that, the people here endured great, and unnecessary privations from mistaken notions of the Deity— That there was but one true God, who had made them, as well as the white people— who is so just and good, as not to require any thing of us, but what is really for our own welfare and happiness: and He would not therefore be angry with them, for eating their food with their own hands; for it was for such purposes he had given them hands, and, if he had not intended, these members of the body to perform all offices to the body— he would not have made them hands at all— Neither would he be angry with them for drinking water out of my cup, or any other vessel,— or for roasting a potatoe at my fire— or on account of me doing so and so at their fires, or at other tabooed things &c. That they might also eat in their houses freely, without giving offence to God— [f] I then remarked that “Pomare”, King of Otaheite, at one time, tabooed every thing as they did, but he had lately laid aside this absurd and injurious custom; and now acted, in this respect, like the white people— yet, God was not angry with him, nor has he caused him, or his people, to die, on that account. Neither will God be angry with the New Zealanders, if they now do the same. They heard me with apparent surprise, and asked me a number of pertinent questions; which, I answered generally, by stating, what God wished them to do; and what he had forbidden.— That he would be angry with them for stealing potatoes, pork or any other article from each other, or from strangers— for murdering and eating one another and for seducing wives from their husbands &c.— These were some of the crimes which would cause God to be angry, and to punish them.— They readily admitted the criminality of such acts:— but, believed that our God and their God were very different Beings saying that I might violate their taboos by eating in their houses, cooking at their fires &c their God would not punish me; but, He would kill them for my offence.— I then asked them if they knew any thing of the God of Kiperra, or had any direct communication with him.— They replied that they often heard him whistle, in a low note.— I also asked Moodeeokow if he, as their priest, had any immediate communication with their Deity; and he likewise said, that he had heard him whistle; and he had tried to imitate the note that he had heard:—[f] I replied, that I could not credit what they had asserted unless I heard Him myself. They, however, maintained it to be a fact, saying that, all the inhabitants of New Zealand knew it to be true— I told the Priest I still doubted the circumstance, and except I was to hear him myself, I could not believe that either he, himself, or any other person had really and personally heard such a thing, as the whistle of the Attua. (God) and that I wished to accompany him to any place where I might hear the communication between him and the Attua:— He said the Attua was in the bush and I could not hear him— I offered to attend him into the bush; but, when he came to be very closely pressed, he acknowledged they had no God at Kiperra; & said he had heard there was a God at “Shukee-Haiga” but none other and requested I would give him one of my Gods and he would put him in a box, that he might always have him, with himself.— I had never seen any household God, nor had I ever before heard that the New Zealanders had any idea of a material God:— and I therefore told him there was but one only true and living God who had made the world and all things therein; and were I to make him a God— he would be made of wood or some other material substance which could be easily burned or otherways destroyed— and consequently of no benefit to any man.— They all smiled at the idea of burning a God, and evidently saw the absurdity of having, or worshipping a material God.— Whether Satan be permitted, as the God of this world, to practise oral deception, and by such means, maintain the dark Superstitions, which pervade the minds of these poor heathens; a[nd] so support his spiritual dominion over these benighted lands, I cannot tell! But, I have met with no New Zealander, [f] even the most enlightened, who do not firmly believe, that their Priests have some direct communication with their God— and, as before observed, many of their Priests and others have told me, that they have personally hard such communications— which, considering their truth and integrity in other matters, is something surprising.- This is, however, a subject of such a mysterious nature, that I cannot make up my mind to believe, or disbelieve a circumstance so generally credited in this Island: Nor can I pretend to know, how far the Agency of Satan may extend over a barbarous, uncivilized people, who have no law, human or divine, to restrain the corrupt passions of men!— This I am fully convinced of, that in all regular civil Governments, where wholesome laws restrain men’s turbulent passions; that the secret Agency of the evil Spirit, who worketh in the hearts of the children of disobedience, is greatly restrained, and the force of his wicked instigations, weakened, and, under the divine blessing, counteracted by means of such laws.— I have dropt these remarks, as they occurred to me, at the moment, and shall now go on with my narrative.— We continued conversing on the foregoing subjects, till late in the evening— Timmorangha said there were too many Priests in the Island, and that they prayed and tabooed the people to death— He then related what happened to himself, when going with me to Towrangha [f] (as before stated) observing that tho’ the priest said, if he, Timmorangha, went to Towrangha, the Attua would kill him in four days after (and that the God himself communicated this sad sentence) however, he, Timmorangha, did go to Towrangha, and is yet well and among them, as an evidence of the priest’s false prediction.— Tho’ Timmorangha spoke against tabooing, his own mind was greatly fettered by superstition: he could not admit that our God was their God, and frequently urged that our God was good, and we did not require the taboo &c— He also explained to the company the habits, manners, and customs he had observed among the Europeans, as also their religion, as far as he was able.— He was intelligent and of considerable observation.— and, Having resided with me at Parramatta for some time, he had gained considerable knowledge.— When my observations pressed hard on the Superstitions of his country, he would observe “When you send Missionaries to Kiperra the people will learn better, and lay aside the “taboo” and other bad habits.” Having had mutual pleasure in these discussions till near midnight— we retired to rest— but the Natives did not let me have much sleep, as one after another continued to ask me questions on the subjects of our previous discourse— 19th After breakfast I proposed to return the visit of Moodeepangee— Several of the principal chiefs accompanied me, and an hour afterwards we reached the residence of Moodeepangee’s son “Kahoo”, he was happy to see us, and wished us to dine with him— to which I had no objection, (Having devoted this day solely to visiting) Dinner was quickly prepared, and clean fern spread on the ground for us to sit down.— Kohoo was [f] a fine young man not, then, long married— he resides in a rich valley, the soil of which is well adapted for sweet and common potatoes and an abundance of these, was dressed for our party.— Dinner over, we proceeded to Moodeepangee’s and in our way we passed by a very fine and strongly fortified Hippah belonging to Mowettee.— We also past thro’ some rich vallies, in one of them, a battle had been fought, two months before, in which one chief fell.— On reaching our destination, I found Moodeepangee ready to receive me. His children were all dressed, and their heads ornamented with feathers;— his head wife had got on her dogskin garment: and he had prepared the stump of a tree, on which he had placed a cushion of bullrushes for me to sit on.— He expressed the great pleasure my visit gave him, and presented me with an immensely heavy hog,— ordered proper provisions for my companions— and then entered into discourse on various subjects.— We talked of the wars between his tribe and that of Shunghee’s— He said he did not wish to be at war with any tribe, but was compelled to fight for the protection of himself and people, that a party of Shunghee’s men was then murdering and plundering the inhabitants of Kiperro district, and feared he should be obliged to take arms against them once more.— He, as well as most of the chiefs, wished for some regular Government to protect their persons and property from the lawless attacks of restless [f] men— Timmorangha explained how the Government was administered at Port Jackson that we had but one king (Governor Macquarie) who put a stop to all fighting and irregularity there, and that, he had heard, King George did the same in England: but while there were so many kings in New Zealand, there would necessarily be continual wars.— he also said, Captain Downie of the Coromandel had written to King George to send a ship of war to New Zealand, and he thought when she came out, the country would be greatly benefited as she would prevent the people from the Bay of Islands, of coming to plunder those at the river Thames and Kiperra; and all other tribes from waring [sic] and murdering each other. Moodeepangee wished to know if such a ship woud come round to the Kiperro river: I told him, that it depended on the fitness of the harbour, if the entrance was good and safe anchorage inside, I had no doubt, but she would come there, and if otherwise, she would not be able. He said there were plenty of fine spars on the banks of that river, and in his districts and it would please him well, if ships would come for them. He would also like that some Europeans would reside with him, for the benefit of his people. I told him much would depend on the river and harbour, and until they were examined, nothing could be done.— His residence is beautifully situated within view of the river Kiperro, and the land around him is good, tho’ of a light sandy nature, it is quite free from stones, as far as I saw.— A deal of it would grow good wheat or barley. The country here, has the vestages of having at one time a great population, but is now thinly inhabited.— In the evening I returned [f] again to my former quarters. The next day being the Sabbath, I wished to spend it where I was then, and on Monday to proceed on my journey. Our Saturday evening’s conversation was on the immortality of the soul— a doctrine generally believed among them, The resurrection of the body, is not so well understood, or it is rather beyond their comprehension, tho’ they do not deny the possibility of it.— I mentioned the happy death of the righteous, observing that when their God revealed to them, that they were to die, they were not afraid of death, but happy in the prospect of being in the same place with the gracious God whom they had long loved and served.— The chiefs said this was not the case with New Zealanders, for they were always very much afraid to die— I told them, when they came to understand God’s Book, which He had given to the white men, and which the Missionaries would give to them, and teach them how to understand it, they would no longer be afraid to die— provided they did as the book of God directed. They clearly understood the difference between the bad man who was afraid to die, and the good man who was not afraid. They said that the souls of New Zealanders (at their death) went into a cave at the North Cape, and from thence descended into the Sea to the next world. The privations and mortifications which these poor heathen suffer, from a sense of guilt and fear, are many and great.— Nothing short of the divine power of revelation, can free them [f] from the bondage of superstition, and mental darkness, in which they are involved. They have no idea of a God of mercy and love— willing to do them good:— but, believe that an angry Being is always ready to kill and devour them, for the neglect of the smallest matter imaginable: and, under such impressions, they frequently sicken, pine away, and die. When I told them. My God was good, and took care of me wherever I went, and heard me, when I prayed to him, by night or by day!— They said, they had no such God, their God only punished and killed them.— Among these tribes, I always thought it most proper to pray publickly, first explaining what I was about to do: and, tho’ the Natives did not understand what I said, the performance of this duty supplied me with matter for conversation tending to their edification.— If they wished to know what I prayed for— I told them— that I might be preserved in health, and from every accident, while travelling thro’ their country: and that my God might send them Missionaries to teach them his book, put an end to their wars, and obtain plenty of wheat and cattle that their wives and children might have enough of bread and animal food to eat &c— They paid great attention in hearing all this, saying repeatedly “these things— very good— very good.” In this manner the week ended with us— and we retired to rest for the night. 20th Sabbath day, I had made it known that I would stop another day with Mowetta [f] and Moodeepangee, with some others, came early to spend the day with me. Although these people had never heard of a sabbath day, to me, it was the christian Sabbath, and I was naturally led to converse with them, on the creation of the world, and of the first institution of this sacred day.— The sensible objects of nature furnished an excellent text to speak in a manner suited to their comprehension, and the account given by Moses is so beautiful in its order and simplicity; that, they found no difficulty in comprehending the general outlines of his Statement.— The firmament, the heavenly bodies, (Sun, Moon, and Stars)— the fowls of the air,— fish of the sea— trees of the forest, and the grass of the field, were objects, with which they were daily conversant— The order of time in which the different parts of the creation are stated to have been arranged, at the mighty fiat of the Supreme Being, was so regular and plain, in succession; that, the account struck their minds with great force: “God said, let there be light, and there was light: and the evening, and the morning were the first day” &c. When God had finished all his works on the sixth day, he rested on the seventh, and set it apart for his own immediate worship. Such simple, but comprehensive expressions found easy access to their minds, so that I had no difficulty in communicating the institution of the Sabbath, and the purpose for which it was ordained.— When I found myself deficient in their language, Timmorangha interpreted, by which means I was generally understood by the company— [f] Moodeepanga was so much taken up with these sublime topics, that he stopt all the day (as did some others)— nor would he return home till I took my departure the next day— but remained in the same Hut with me, during the night— The Hut was large, and well filled with men, women and children (about 40 in all) who, by their discourse among themselves and questions to me, prevented my enjoying much sleep— 21st I was anxious to start early this morning, having five miles to walk to Kiperra river where I meant to embark in a canoe: but, as several Chiefs were present, who wished to say something on the occasion of my visit it was full two hours, before they had done speaking.— Moodeepangee expressed himself much gratified by my coming among them, and assured me, if Europeans came to reside in Kiperra, he would protect them: and, if the harbour was found safe for ships, he hoped to be supplied with colours to hoist as a signal when a vessel appeared in sight.— The provisions for my party (namely 700 lbs potatoes, and 300 lbs Pork— packed in baskets) being laid on the Slaves to carry— I took leave of Mowetta’s place & friends.— Moodeekow, the priest, Awye, Apoo, and upwards of thirty others, accompanied me to the river on the banks of which (as the tide was down) we had to remain till two hours after dark, waiting the return of water enough, to carry the canoe from the end of a small creek into the river.— When we had got the canoe out, and the provisions on board— Moodeekow, Awye, and Apoo (who determined to proceed with us as far as the canoe would go) took leave of their friends, who wept aloud— [f] and cut themselves in a manner, as before described), painful for a christian eye to witness. They suffer in every possible way thro the influence of superstition— what an infinite blessing will their deliverance from this darkness be! even in a temporal point of view.— On the turn of the tide, we went rapidly down the stream— the night was cold and dark, so that I could not see, to ascertain the depth of water: but the river appeared to be of considerable breadth:— Before low tide, we went on shore, made a fire, and waited the return of day.— 22d —In the morning, I found the tide to rise about ten feet, and there were ten fathoms water near the shore, at the spot we had anchored. We embarked before high water and in less than an hour, got opposite to a village, which we entered, and remained for a short time. I was here informed that Shunghee’s tribe was murdering and plundering the people on the banks of the Wyeroa (a river we had to ascend when we got to Kiperro harbour) I regretted to hear this report— on account of the calamities these parties would bring on the inhabitants— many of whom, must be compelled to flee into the woods, exposed to hunger, cold and wet.— We proceeded down the river with the tide, and about 2 P.M. reached the Settlement of a chief named “OKakka”. This village is large and populous, and is situated on the south side of the river about four miles from the harbour’s mouth. On going on shore I found the chief at home who received me kindly. I told him I had come to see the river, and examine the mouth of the harbour, to ascertain whether ships could get in, and ride safely &c. [f] He said there would not be time to examine it that evening but if I could stay, he would go with me in the morning— I observed that my time was short and if I could not see the mouth of the harbour then I should cross over to Wyeroa. He then said, that, tho’ he wished me to stay all night, if I was determined to go, he would, if I wished, attend me down the river to view the entrance. Two other chiefs accompanied us to the entrance— The wind blew fresh and a strong tide set against us, on paddling the Canoe down— When a cable’s length from the shore, I sounded with a line (I had for the purpose) and found 15 fathoms water— The river is here (in the harbour) from five to seven miles broad, but I had no means to ascertain it exactly.— When we had got a mile further down, the roughness of the sea compelled us to go on shore: and, as I could not get to the mouth of the harbour in a canoe, I ascended a high hill, from which I had an extensive view of the sea, but could not see the entrance distinctly— tho’ I observed breakers a long way out, in the channel.— One of the chiefs informed me, there was a channel to the southward, free from breakers, and had a depth of twenty fathoms water, but as I did not see or examine this Channel, I cannot affirm his statement to be correct.— If, however, a safe entrance and anchorage be found to this place, it will be very convenient for procuring and shipping good Spars, and Masts of all sizes— There are three fresh water rivers which run into this harbour, upon whose banks the finest spars are to be met with— I have seen the wood on the banks of two of them;— the other I did not ascend, but was told the spars on it are equally good.— One of these takes its rise from the Wytematta (already described) on the west side of the Thames.— The second runs from the interior, near Bream head, on the east side.— The third runs parallel with [f] the sea coast for thirty or forty miles and then takes a nor-easterly direction.— I crossed one of the branches of the first river, about seven or eight miles from the Wyeteematta, as I travelled over land to Kiperro and observed its banks covered with lofty trees. As the harbour is enclosed by sand Hills, and the banks of the large rivers composed of sand, I should apprehend that there are many sand banks in the Harbour of Kippero, some of which I observed, and probably a sand bar across the entrance— Whether the immense body of water which must come rapidly down these rivers, in the rainy seasons, together with the strong tide, will open and clear a channel for ships— or not, I am not competent to judge: but as far as I am able to form an opinion, I am inclined to think there is a dangerous bar, from the nature of the sea shore and the banks of the rivers.— Finding that it was not possible, from the strong wind, and rough Sea, to obtain true information respecting the entrance into this Harbour; I made Okakka and his friends some trifling presents, for the attention shewn, and then we took our departure for the Wyeroa, with wind and tide in our favour, which we entered after crossing the harbour. — This river appears to be eight miles wide at the entrance, as far as I could judge, by the eye. It began to Rain and the increasing wind compelled us to go on shore, a little before dark, at a village, containing about 50 huts, on the banks of the river. The inhabitants had fled into the woods for fear of the plundering party (before named)— The night being cold and wet we were glad to get shelter in the deserted huts, and landed our provisions and luggage for that purpose— As we had no rest the preceding night— being in the canoe, [f] We retired early to enjoy sleep, and, tho the rain beat and the wind roared loud, we remained quietly till morning.— 23d At day light we found the wind had increased to a very heavy gale, and the Surf broke upon the beach with great violence threatening immediate destruction to our Canoe— The Natives instantly threw off their mats— rushed into the surf, and dragged the Canoe through the breakers.— They then leapt into it— while the waves tost it about like a cork, I expected every moment it would have been upset— they however pulled off from the breakers, and ran up the river, before wind & tide, until they found a sheltered cove; and fixed her in it. The storm continued all day so violent, that the Natives would not venture out in the river. The provisions and things were carried to the Canoe to be ready, when the weather moderated.— As there was no prospect of the storm abating, they put up a screen, with stakes, and bullrushes, about seven feet high on the weather side, which shielded us from the rain; they also made a Hammock, for me, of the flax plant, and slung it under the screen, which kept me off the wet ground.— 24th On the return of day, the weather moderated, and we proceeded up the river at a rapid rate, having a good Canoe and sail,— the Wyeroa was here about 4 miles broad,— no Natives were to be seen on the left banks, and we observed a few fires only on the right side.— Tho’ thirty miles distant from the ocean in parts of this river, we could distinctly hear the waves breaking on the sea shore.— About 2 p.m. we arrived at the Hippah of the chief “Tetoka” (a noted warrior) who hailed the canoe, and urged me to go on shore. We all landed, and I was well received by him— His Hippah was crowded with men, women and children, and in a complete state of defence, according to their mode, but of little use [f] against fire arms— He said part of Shunghee’s tribe was in their district, had killed five of his people, and committed other depredations— that his tribe was not then able to meet them in battle, having no muskets, while his enemy was strongly armed with these instruments of destruction— I lamented much that they should live in such a continued state of warfare, and be exposed to such calamities as they now experienced, but hoped, in time, an end would be put to such wars, and that they would have a regular Government to afford protection to the injured, and peace to all.— He observed that if Europeans would come and live with them, it might be otherwise than it now was, as they afford or procure protection, from such inroads.— I said, it was possible that some missionaries might, in time, come to reside in his district but I could not promise him, with certainty. That I would, however, use my influence with Shunghee’s tribe, on my return to Kiddee Kiddee, to prevent them, as far as I could, from committing such acts of violence.— Tetoko seemed anxious to live in peace, if permitted, and to cultivate his land.— He wished me to remain with him till the following day— but, I could not, for the reasons already given,— he would not, however, let us go till we dined with him; and he ordered a large quantity of potatoes and fish to be cooked, accordingly.— After dinner he presented me with two fine hogs— I told him it was not in my power to accept of his present, as we had already as much pork, as we could either use or carry with us.— It was with difficulty I prevented him from putting them into the canoe, till I told him to take care of them [f] until a Missionary or some other European called upon him, as I intended, if I could, to send some person to examine the Harbour of Kiperro, during the summer season, when the weather would answer, to ascertain whether the entrance would admit a ship &c.— He said he knew there was plenty of water for a ship and had found it 20 fathoms— I remarked, if that was the case, the people on the banks of the rivers would derive great advantage from the shipping; but this we should know when the Harbour was examined.— He promised to take care of the hogs for the purpose intended— I made him some small presents, and, after receiving a quantity of fish and potatoes, we took our leave of him. There were a number of very fine children in this Hippah; sufficient to form a very good School.— We proceeded up the river with a fair breeze, which continued till sun set, and we then pulled along till dark by the Paddles, and when the tide came strong against us, we came to anchor, and lay in the canoe till it turned, and then went on, pulling up the river till near day light, when we landed on the beach, made a fire, and cooked our breakfast. 25th After refreshing ourselves we proceeded by day light, on our passage.— We past several small farms, on the banks of the river, but did not observe a single inhabitant till we came to a small village, about 2 p.m., the people of which were in great alarm, on account of the plundering party, before mentioned, which was doing much mischief around. The farm and village belonged to a chief named “Toorow” who lived further up— two canoes came off, and accompanied us to his residence. His Hippah stands on a bank on the left hand, in going up the river. He kindly invited us on shore and ordered the Slaves to prepare dinner, and sent also a basket of Potatoes to the canoe [f] for my private use— He had one of the best houses I had yet seen in New Zealand: with a portico in front 16 feet wide where he and his friends could sit and enjoy themselves under shelter— His Hippah was completely fortified, with upright split timber from 24 to 30 feet high, put close together. Shunghee’s party had killed some of his people and done him considerable damage. All the inhabitants, on the banks of this river, had in consequence relinquished their farms, and fled into the woods: their hogs were killed, their stores plundered, and their crops destroyed, so that many were distressed for want of food.— The fire arms of the enemy gave them a decided advantage over the other tribes, so that none could stand against them. Toorow seemed a mild man, & had his stores well put up, and a number of people in his Hippah.— I expressed my deep concern for the distress they endured, and my disapprobation of their enemy’s conduct towards them and promised Toorow to speak to the Heads of Shunghee’s tribe when I got to the Missionary settlement against such proceedings.— I also here, as at other places, pointed out the importance of their having a regular Government for until something like it be established, the more powerful will always try to oppress and destroy the weaker party.— The Majority of all the chiefs I have seen, would be glad to live in peace if permitted, and to follow civil occupations. [f] After dinner we prepared to depart.— Toorow wished us to stay till the following day— I satisfied him that we could not prudently do so— He advised me not to go high up the river towards Mangakaiea, in consequence of the heavy rains: as would find great difficulty in getting up the Rapids, by having to pull against the whole force of the stream without a tide to assist (because it went no higher than where we then were)— observing also that three canoes had been lately broke to pieces by the violence of the current, driving them on rocks and besides that danger I should find great difficulty in crossing a large river (which has to be crossed several times on my route) at this rain season of the year.— He also believed that, let the men of our Canoe pull ever so well, we would be three days in reaching the place at which I intended to land.— These unexpected obstacles rather stunned me: and I enquired if there was any other way by which I might get to Bay of Islands.— They informed me I might cross the country to the east of the Island towards a settlement called Wangaree, not far from Bream head, where I could get a canoe to carry me down the coast.— That the road to Wangaree was tolerably good, and no rivers to cross, the distance being little more than a days journey— I consulted, with my friend Timmorangha, who approved going by Wangaree, as he had many friends there about whom he would be glad to meet.— We therefore took leave of Toorow and his friends— And we [f] proceeded a short distance up the Wyeroa, when we entered a river that ran to the right hand, from the head of which we had to go by land to Wangaree. We reached the foot of a fall, as far up as the canoe could go, a little after dark— went on shore and made a fire, as usual,— the night was cold, but the thick trees afforded us some shelter— 26th— I had this morning to take leave of my Kiperra friends— Moodeeokow, Awye and Apoo who returned with the canoe— they had been five days with me, from the time we left Mowettas village.— My luggage was packed up, and they appointed three of their slaves to assist Timmorangha’s servant in carrying it. I made them presents of such articles as I had left, and we parted with mutual esteem.— I had experienced as much kindness, from these por heathens (in their own way) as I could have expected from the most civilized in Europe. The morning was wet and stormy, the road heavy and dirty, and we had several swamps and runs of water to wade through.— After walking about four hours, I perceived Moodeekow and his son ( a fine boy) coming after us— who, on coming up, said he would accompany me to the Bay of Islands.— I was happy that he had formed this resolution, as he would there see something of civil life which might be of service to him, and perhaps to the Missionary cause hereafter.— I could not think of asking him to go, when we parted, as I thought it would be too great a task for him; but he was now glad that he had joined us again, and so was I. [f] We past a large Hippah in ruins. It had been a very strong place, and apparently well peopled at no distant period.— Timmorangha informed me that the tribe was then nearly extinct, and had been cut off chiefly by war. We next came to a small village, at the edge of a wood, on the plain— the land about it was good, but the people had recently fled, leaving some few articles in their Huts.— We dined here in one of the sheds, for the rain was heavy.— Timmorangha, in looking about the skirts of the wood, found the place, where these poor people had secreted their potatoes &c— After refreshment we pushed on to another village, known to Timmorangha, as fast as we could, on account of the stormy weather, and reached it by sunset— this village was also deserted by its inhabitants— A small miserable Hut, and a shed, were all that was left; being both wet and weary, we crept into these for the night. I took of [sic] my wet clothes, but, it was with difficulty we could make a fire, by friction, to dry them, owing to the very wet state of the wood, and, had we not succeeded, we should have had a miserable night indeed. 27th— We started early, and soon came to another village, which had lately been burnt, the land round it was rich, and capable of growing wheat or any other grain, in abundance. This village was also on the skirt of a wood, and appeared to possess every local advantage, in soil, water, and timber to enrich the proprietor could he enjoy the fruits of industry, and exercise it: but in their state, there is no security for person or property.— I could not but lament to see, the dreadful effects of Man’s fall! That man, here, for the sake of a few potatoes, should Murder his fellow,— burn his habitations [f] drive his wife and children to the woods to perish by hunger, if they escape the murderer’s hand! gives a picture of depravity, terrifying to an enlightened mind!— Timmorangha made many judicious observations as we past these scenes of desolation, and expressed an ardent desire, that the time might soon come, when his country would possess the means of putting a stop to such wanton cruelties! He thought when the Man of war, which Captain Downie had written for, would come out, his country men would be checked from committing such acts of violence as those described. When we had got a mile past the village, Timmorangha began to tire, and sat down to rest, as did the slaves;— I was very wet by wading thro’ the swamps, and very warm with walking, also, and therefore afraid to sit down lest, by checking perspiration I should catch a cold— for which reason I walked gently on, and Moodeeokow followed close behind me.— We shortly ascended some rising ground, and on the opposite hill, I observed a body of about 50 Natives, on the look out. I concluded they must either belong to the plundering party, or to the fugitives who were guarding against them.— When Moodeeokow saw them, he turned instantly back to Timmorangha and seemed much alarmed.— I remained on the hill, and the opposite party having seen me— two of them immediately came off towards me, in all haste, one was completely naked with a long spear, and a bayonet fixed on the end of it, in his hand,— the other had [f] a carpenter’s axe with a long handle to it. The two bounded across the intervening valley, as swiftly as their strength would permit, attended by a faithful dog which, on coming nearer, I observed had lost an eye, and had a cut above the other. The man without clothes, I perceived had got three spear wounds, but they were all healed.— When they had come close up, they seemed greatly astonished to meet a white man in their forest, and stood still to take a silent view of me— I knew neither of them more than they did me,— I then told my name, with which they proved to be well acquainted:— and this information explained the singular circumstance of meeting a white man in such a place, and they gave me a cordial reception.— They then called out to their companions informing them, who they had found. I told them Timmorangha was on the road, and would soon be up. They were rejoiced at this news: and when he arrived I found that those two men, were his particular friends, and had been officers under him, in his war expedition to Towrangha (9 months before, as already [sic] described) and that he, who had been speared, was the first man wounded in action on that occasion.— They were mutually happy in thus meeting with each other. They now informed Timmorangha of the dreadful murders committed by the “Naypoies” among others they had killed ten belonging to Wangaree of whom they had eaten three,— a chief and his wife and a niece of Timmorangha’s.— Timmorangha was greatly afflicted by this intelligence.— The spirit of vengeful retaliation fiered [sic] his every nerve, and he seemed eager for vengeance.— But when the warmth of indignation was over, he said he did not wish to go to war,— he was afraid [f] however, of being forced to take up arms in self defence, and as an act of common justice to his relations, and friends, if their enemies continued to commit such cruelties. I told him, that on my return, I would accompany him to the chiefs of Shungee’s tribe and see what they had to say, and what could be done in this matter.— He became more pacified by this proposal, and said, he would overlook all that they had done, provided they would abstain from such murders, and robberies in future. We now joined the party on the other hill who returned with us to Wangaree, where we all arrived about 3 p.m. Timmorangha was here among his own friends, who both wept and rejoiced at meeting him. Several of them were much afflicted for the murder of their relatives, and the plunder of their farms; and were also under constant apprehension and dread lest the Naypoies should attack them.— Wangaree is situated at the head of a small harbour that runs up several miles inland, into which a fresh water river falls; and up this river there are some fine trees for spars: but I doubt whether there are sufficient shelter, and depth of water, in any part, for ships of large dimensions.— Small vessels may anchor in several places.— This Harbour is about ten miles to the northward of “Bream head”.— We remained all night at Wangaree, which was taken up by Timmorangha and his friends, in speaking of their troubles.— [f] Aug. 28th — Tho’ the morning was threatening, we prepared for our departure, and having got a good well manned Canoe, from the Chief, we proceeded down the harbour.. An hour after, the wind rose, and it rained heavy, which made us put into a small village on the left side of the harbour, where we remained two hours; till the storm moderated when we again went on:— but shortly after the tempest forced us, once more, on shore at a place lower down, where we kindled a fire on the beach, and sheltered ourselves as well as circumstances would permit and as the storm continued, we were obliged to remain, in this uncomfortable situation, all night. 29th— The storm having something abated, we set off two hours before daylight, and, before sunrise, got to the residence of “Weyeeweyee” (a head chief, related to Timmorangha). He was then, an old man, of a venerable appearance, tall, and stout— He rejoiced to see Timmorangha and informed him how the “Naypoies” had driven his people from their farms, in the interior, & destroyed, or took away, all their provisions &c— He earnestly wished to have Europeans settled among them— I gave him similar encouragement to that I had given the people of Kiperra, namely, that if the harbour was found in all respects suitable— something might be done as that would at least, induce ships to visit them especially the whalers: and, it was probable a vessel from Port Jackson might come shortly to examine the harbour.— He said a Brig called the “Venus” had anchored there.— This vessel [f] had been piratically taken by the convicts at Port Jackson, some years back. Weyee Weyee ordered breakfast, and proposed we should stay with him till next day, which was declined, for want of time. After breakfast, he ordered a longer Canoe for us: and, after telling Timmorangha I should wait for him at the mouth of the harbour, two miles off, I walked on to see the place (having first taken leave of the chief)— When I had got round to the left head of the harbour’s mouth, I came to a populous village; some of the people, I had seen at the Bay of Islands, and they were happy to see me. I entered the place, and sat down among them, for some hours— expecting the canoe every moment— but, as it did not arrive— I returned to learn the cause of the delay.— I found Timmorangha sitting with Weyee-weyee and other chiefs, in close conversation— On asking the first, why he did not follow me according to promise Weyee-weyee replied, that his friend’s talk was so good and sweet to him, he could not think of parting, and if I had not returned, no canoe would have gone after me that day. After much persuasion Weyee Weyee was prevailed on to let us go: and we sailed out of the harbour about 3 P.M. with a favourable breeze.— When we had got about eight miles out along the coast, the wind rose, and the sea ran so high, as obliged us to go on shore for the night.— The coast here for some miles, consists of very high and hard perpendicular rocks: and there are therefore few places on which a Canoe dare venture to land, or even come close to the shore.— [f] 30th The weather was tolerable this morning, but the wind against us— We however put to sea, by daylight, and the men kept close to the shore, and pulled hard to make way; but had to go round the coves, not being able to cross them, owing to the adverse wind and high sea.— At dusk, in the evening, we reached the Hippah of “Mayanger” (the chief who accompanied Dr Savage to England twelve years before.)— This Hippah is called Pie-arakka— It stands on the summit of a very high conical hill, and is nearly surrounded by water, when the tide is in;— except at one narrow passage, it appeared inaccessible on every side.— As soon as the Natives observed the canoe at the foot of their Hippah, they rushed down the pass— spear in hand, as if going to encounter an enemy.— On being informed who we were they directed us round to the opposite side of the Hippah, where we could land, and invited us to spend the night with them, which was a most acceptable request us, as we were much fatigued, and both cold and hungry.— On landing I was conducted up the narrow pass, which I could not ascend without help, on account of the steepness, and narrowness of the path.— When I had reached the top I found a number of Men, women, and children sitting round fires, and roasting Snappers, Crawfish, and fern-roots. By this time, it was quite dark. The roaring of the Sea at the foot of the Hippah, as the waves rolled into the deep caverns beneath the high precipice, on which we stood, and on whose top and sides were numerous Huts; with groups [f] of Natives, wildly standing or sitting round their numerous fires, enjoying the converse of savage life;— excited, in me, a train of new Ideas, and strange reflections.— Tho’ the omnipotent Creator, has made of one blood & substance, all the people and nations that dwell on the face of the earth, and has fixed the bounds of their respective habitations; yet, how widely different are their circumstances and situations!— It would perhaps be difficult to draw a fair comparison between the comforts and enjoyments (Mental and corporeal) which are possessed by those in polished christian Society,— and, the Privations and Miseries, which must be endured by people in a savage state! With some such reflection I contemplated the position of the poor heathens, who were then before me: and afterwards sat down among them.— A woman handed me a roasted snapper, others prepared me some fern-root, and, being very hungry, I relished my supper very well, notwithstanding the manner in which it was cooked and served.— Moyanger was from home, and I knew none of those present:— but, the officer in charge of the Hippah was very kind to me, as were also the people— We were accommodated with one of their best Huts, for the night: and Timmorangha amused them till a late hour, with an account of our tour, and the particular incidents of our journey.— 31st We prepared early to leave this romantic spot. The sides, near the sea, have the appearance of an old Abbey in ruins, and the broken rocks, resembled the remains of broken massy columns, which time had wasted or worn down— On our departure the chief presented me with a hog— for which I made him a small present.— This Hippah is situated at the bottom of a Cove; on the north side of which, a ship might be sheltered and anchored in apparent safety— there being five or six fathoms depth of water [f] with a soft bottom. The chief said there was only one small rock in the cove, and showed me the spot where a whaler had anchored, some time back. The rock alluded to, is seen above water. We quickly passed the head of the cove and stood along shore, till we came opposite to a small harbour called “Tootookakka”— I was in this harbour about six years back. Small vessels only can be admitted, the entrance being narrow, and the bounds small within. The “Prince Regent” anchored here one night after the Dromedary had left the Bay of Islands. There are plenty of fine spars in its neighbourhood.— In passing this harbour the wind began to increase and the sea to rise, which shortly forced us to take shelter in a cove,— there we made a fire, dressed our hog and took breakfast.— This cove belonged to Timmorangha, as well as the land— for a considerable extent, on the coast, and in the interior around. The soil here is exceeding good, but no people lived on it, at that time. There was an extensive settlement about twelve miles along the coast called “Winnanakkee” and As there was no prospect of the weather permitting us to leave the cove for some time— I resolved to travel by land to Winnanakkee.— Timmorangha said the road was difficult and too fatiguing for him, but if I was determined to go, his servant would accompany me as a guide. We immediately set off on our journey.— I hoped to reach Winnanakkee that evening; but the servant told me we could not— the distance being too great— we must lodge in the wood, all night— We pushed on however as fast [f] as we could, and, after walking for hours, up and down precipices, over rocks, and wading through water, at heads of such coves or creeks, as we could ford, we at last had the pleasure to observe the smoke from the settlement we sought (about five or six miles off) and that we had got over the worst part of the road.— These circumstances inspired us with fresh confidence: and by renewed exertion we reached the village before it was quite dark; very weary and wet.— I had formerly known the chief of this settlement and his wife, who were overjoyed at my arrival. The servant fortunately brought my blanket, which enabled me, to get my clothes taken off and dried, while I wrapped myself in it.— The chief’s wife had a good fire made, and administered to all my wants, as well as she could.— They gave me the use of their own Hut, which was very comfortable, and spread some good mats on the floor, for my bed.— I enjoyed my Hut very much after such a laborious journey, and felt grateful for the accommodation given me by these benighted people— The chief’s wife expressed much concern, that she had no provisions, which she thought I could eat— They had no pork because their hogs had been destroyed by the enemy, as well as their potatoes— She had some cockles and fern-root but thought I could not eat them. She had also some Komerus, or sweet potatoes, and two pumkins, which she would dress for me, observing that if I could not eat the Komeras, I might like the pumkin because it was very sweet.— [f] While this kindly anxious woman was racking her mind to find me suitable food, her husband had sent out to purchase a basket of common Potatoes, for which he paid a Tokee, solely for my use: and this relieved the good woman’s anxiety.— My arrival was soon known thro’ the settlement, and tho’ the rain fell heavy numbers crowded round the Hut.— Tingangha (the chief who received me) wished to know where I had been, and what had brought me to Winna-nakkee (as he had been astonished as well as gratified to see me here). I gave him the particulars of my Jaunt, which he thought surprising, especially that of having walked so far— I told him where Timmorangha was left, waiting a change of weather to come on, but if he did not come soon, I would proceed without him— Tingangha said that the road was bad and that it would take me four days to reach Wyekaddee— and that, if possible, I ought to go in a Canoe &c.— After conversing with the chief and others some time, I retired to rest— safe from the stormy blast.— Sepr 1st I was sorry to find no change in the weather this morning, the chief observed that Timmorangha would not be able to put to sea.— I wished to proceed: but he and his wife urged me to stay a day with them, and if Timmorangha did not come by the following morning I should have his war canoe, well manned; to carry me to a harbour called “Wangoodoodoo”, and I should then be within one short day’s walk to Bay of Islands.— I told them I had very urgent reasons for going on— but, if made sure of his canoe, I would wait till next morning [f] Mrs Tingangha observed she had some small chickens under a hen, which she would kill for me to eat, and would send a man into the wood to get me some pigeons, for she was much concerned lest I should suffer from hunger. I would not allow her to kill the chickens, as they had but one hen, and assured her I would not suffer from hunger while I had plenty of potatoes— She asked how I had rested during the night, and hoped I had made up my mind to remain another night— That she would set to cleaning out the house and then she was sure I would sleep well.— She was as good as her word, and made a very clean comfortable place for me.— I spent the day in visiting the inhabitants till dinner, and in the evening I went to a fresh water river, which runs from the interior, and amused myself in a Canoe.— There is plenty of fine timber on the banks of this stream— but, no harbour near, to admit shipping.— The day was showery and stormy, and we therefore could not expect Timmorangha.— The land about Winna-nakkee is very good, and they are a fine race of people, exceedingly kind and civil. They are in great want of Agricultural instruments, and were anxious I should procure them a little wheat.— I promised them some, as well as some fruit trees._ 2d Timmarangha did not arrive, and the canoe was early got ready according to promise.— Before I took my leave the Chief introduced his two children a son, and daughter, named after two of my children— the Boy after my [f] son Charles, and the girl after my eldest daughter Elizabeth.— His wife said she would accompany me to Wangoodoodoo. The chief wept much at parting, and wished he could come to see me at Parramatta. He also begged that some Europeans might reside with them— I observed, if there was less of war in New Zealand, Europeans might be induced to come and live among them, but, as it then was— they were afraid.— We now stept into the Canoe, and proceeded down the harbour, at the mouth of which, we met Timmorangha— However, as I had such a fine Canoe, I wished to go on, and if he did not choose to go with me now, he could follow me to Wangoodoodoo after.— He said he would see Tingangha, take some refreshment and then follow me, and so we parted— In less than half an hour the wind and sea rose, and compelled us to return, and on landing, I took a guide, and set off by land— I found the road very bad, as it lay by the sea shore, we had continually to strike inland in order to pass bays and precipices, and then descend to the beach again. Several swamps were also in our way.— In the evening we arrived at a small village, when the storm increased— The Natives received us very kindly and gave us a Hut & potatoes &c. Here Timmorangha joined us.— There was no Chief here, and the poor people were preparing ground for potatoes. I had little rest at night. 3rd We rose at dawn of day, and prepared [f] for our journey. After we had walked half an hour I observed a war canoe coming after us which was well manned: it contained the wife of Tingangha, who had determined that the canoe should attend us to Wangoodoodoo (as soon as the storm abated) from a kind consideration of the fatigue we would otherwise undergo, owing to the very bad state of the road. We felt grateful for this instance of her attention, and immediately proceeded on board her canoe to Wangoodoodoo; the inhabitants of which received us very kindly, and accommodated us for the night. Next day we reached Parroa Bay (the most southern cove in Bay of Islands) Some whaling vessels were laying near this, and I got on board one of them (the “Catherine”) with Capt. Graham, her commander, who happened to be on shore at the time we met him. The enjoyment of Civil Society once more was to me a great luxury: and excited in me a greater sense of its blessings than I had ever felt before: Having by experience formed a correct judgment of the miseries of Savage life, during a three months tour through the various Settlements of this Island (before enumerated) and deprived of all communion with civil life, for that period; I now put a much higher value on the inestimable Blessings of Christian society & privileges (which I had always enjoyed) than I had done at any former period of my life. On reviewing the scenes I had passed through in that short period, I felt my mind overflowing with gratitude to my divine protector. The giver of all good, to whom be all glory ascribed. [f] I had met no serious accident in my journies by land and water, nor did I experience any injury from the cold, the wet and deprivations of food and rest, which I had undergone. Tho’ I had often to lie down in wet clothes, in stormy weather, wherever the night overtook me,— whether in an open canoe on the sea, or in the woods or fields on shore, a kind and gracious Providence attended my steps, in my going out, and in my coming in, and gave me favour in the sight of the heathens among whom I sojourned, until I was brought to my European friends at Rangheehoo— (4th Sepr/ 20.) The Government Schooner “Prince Regent” having come into the Bay of Islands laden with spars for Port Jackson— I embarked in her, on the 17th Sepr. to return to the colony of New South Wales: but she encountered very bad weather off the North Cape, and being deeply laden, the Captain was obliged to return to the bay in order to lighten her.— I had suffered so much from sea sickness on board this small crowded vessel, that I resolved to leave her, and wait for a passage in the Dromedary:— I found, on inquiry, that the latter vessel would not leave New Zealand for six weeks; and in this interval of time I thought it advisable. for the good of the cause, to revisit the tribes on the western and eastern coasts: and, on 30th Octr, set off for the River Thames, with the intention of going down the east coast first (in company with the Revd John Butler and Mr Shepherd.)— We touched at Wangoree, where I met some of my former [f] friends— and then proceeded to Magoea on 9th Novr, from thence we paid a visit to the ship Coromandel, anchored at 50 miles distance, on the opposite side of the river, and, on returning again to Magoea, we spent several days in examining the surrounding land, Rivers &c. We likewise visited the several tribes around and then made our way to the western coast coming to Kiperro, once more, we looked a[t] every thing which appeared in any way interesting. On the 7th The Revd J. Butler left me, to return to Bay of Islands: and after his departure I (on the same day) directed my course towards the sea shore, and on the approach of evening I made, on the beach, the best birth I could for the night.— Early next morning I continued my journey, in the same manner, and reached the Heads of the Hokianga river on the evening of 22d Novr and took my lodging with my old friend Mowenna, and his numerous tribe, who were happy to see me. They manifested considerable anxiety for the acquirement of useful knowledge: and we conversed, during the evening, on such subjects as appealed calculated to raise them from their present state of degradation and misery.— They next day supplied me with a good Canoe, and men to take me up the river Hokianga, by which means I reached the spot from whence, it was necessary to cross the county to Wangaroa harbour, where the Dromedary then lay (with a full cargo of spars) ready for sea.— After overcoming some little difficulties in my way, [f] I got on board on the 25th and after a very agreeable passage without any incidents worthy of notice, I arrived, in due time, at Port Jackson with a thankful heart for the mercies and deliverances I had experienced at the hands of our Heavenly Father.  In the preceding pages I have stated some peculiar events that occurred under the direction of Divine Providence, to open a way for the knowledge of the Christian religion and the arts of civilization, in the South Sea Islands—— Forty years have passed away since I first became partially acquainted with the character of the New Zealanders. In the year 1795 I was doing duty at Norfolk Island; previous to which, two young Chiefs had been brought there, in a King’s ship (the “Dedalus”) and placed under the care of Captain Phillip G. King, then Lieutenant Govenor of the Island, who was exceedingly kind to the young men: their names were “Hoodoo” and “Toukee” (and my subsequent intimacy with them, has been detailed in my former voyages.— From the interest created by these Chiefs, and what passed, at that time, between the Lieut Governor and me, concerning them, I felt (and have ever since felt) a strong desire to promote the improvement of their countrymen by the introduction of Christianity and Civilization. [f] In due course of time, after my return to N.S. Wales, the intercourse between Port Jackson and New Zealand became more frequent, and the chiefs had opportunities, from time to time, of coming to the Colony, and they in general resided with me during their stay. — I soon perceived they were a noble race of men, and only wanted the means of instruction, to entitle them to rank with civilized Society. I knew, however, they were cannibals; as Cannibalism was a frequent subject of conversation between them and me, at my own residence, as well as on my visits to their native Island. They do not, of course, view this horrid custom as a crime: but consider, that, if a Chief be killed and eaten by one tribe; It becomes the duty of the injured tribe, to kill and eat one of the same rank belonging to the offending tribe: as soon as opportunity may offer: so that their strong superstition and mutual wars always excited to Cannibalism.— Having detailed in the foregoing particulars, the full nature of this dreadful habit and the opinion of a great part of the Chiefs thereon, I shall here only add, by way of confirmation, an account of a most horrid scene of Cannibalism, which took place before the eyes of our Missionaries (in 1821) after they had been six years among them, during which, I had myself paid them several visits.— The account given by Mr Francis Hall is published in the Church Missionary Register for November 1823 from which the following is extracted— “On the 19th Decr 1821 [f] Three of the war canoes with Moodeewhy’s tribe from Shukianga, returned from the river Thames where they have for several months been spreading death and destruction around them.— They landed about half a mile from the Settlement, got some food and then proceeded towards their homes, to our great joy. They had upward of 100 prisoners of war with them, who might generally be distinguished by their sorrowful countenance. Some of them were weeping and mourning bitterly— one woman in particular, before whom they had, with savage cruelty, placed the head of her brother, stuck upon a stick. She sat upon the ground before it, and the tears ran down her cheeks in streams. We saw several other heads stuck upon sticks about the camp, and we understood that they had many packed up in baskets. These Canoes brought the news of the death of Tettee, a chief, and son in law to Shunghee: he was slain in fight. Tettee was the most civilized, best behaved, and most ingenious and industrious man. whom we have met among the New Zealanders. His brother Apoo, a fine young man, is also among the slain.— This has created grief in the family.— Tettee’s wife and Mattooka his brother are watched and bound to prevent them from putting an end to their lives. Apoo’s wife hung herself on hearing the news. Shunghee’s wife has killed a “cook” or p[risoner of war; wich is customary on these occasions. [f] Decr 20th 1821.— Hearing that Shunghee’s wife was about to kill another slave, we went up the hill to the hut where she was, with Tettee’s wife and child— all weeping and mourning most bitterly.— We found that they had not killed the boy; and hope from what Mr Shepherd and I said to them, that they will not. I offered her an axe to spare his life.— Decr 21st This day Shunghee and his tribe, with some other tribes, arrived here from the fight, with the dead bodies of Tettee and Apoo.— Most of the European men went down to the point, about a quarter of a mile, to see the ceremony of their landing; but very sorry were we, that our curiosity led us to witess such a scene of horror. A small canoe with the dead bodies first approached the shore: the war Canoes, and those taken in fight, about 40 in all, lay at a short distance.— Shortly after, a party of young men landed, to perform the war dance and song, as usual on their return from fighting. They yelled and juped, and brandished their weapons, and threw up human heads in the air in a shocking manner; but this was but the prelude to the horrid work which was about to take place, of which we had no idea.— An awful pause and silence ensued.— At length the canoes moved slowly and came in contact with the shore; when th widow of Tettee and other women rushed down upon the beach in a frenzy of rage, and beat in pieces the carved work at the head of the canoes, with a pole; they then got into a canoe, and pulled out several [f] prisoners of war, into the water, and beat them to death; except one boy who swam away and got into another canoe. The frantic widow then proceeded to another canoe and dragged out a woman prisoner into the water, and beat out her brains with a club with which they beat out fernroot.— We retired from this distressing scene as no interference on our part could avail, and we understand that after we came away, Shunghee killed five with a sword with his own hand. In the whole, nine persons were murdered this evening, and were afterwards eaten by the chiefs and the people.— It is a custom with these wretched men, to make these sacrifices, as a satisfaction for their friends killed in battle. The prisoners of war— men, women, and children— are very numerous; but especially the latter two.— They are said to amount to about 2000; and are distributed chiefly among the different tribes in the Bay of Islands.— The people are now more bloodthirsty than ever; they talk of going again soon, and mean to sweep the whole Island. In this expedition, they did all the mischief which they had threatened. Poor Enakkee was killed and eaten: they brought his head away with them, together with those of a great number of his people.— Enakkee gave them a warmer reception than they expected.— Decr 22d— The numerous Natives around us, have done us less injury than we [f] expected during the past night. Several of the tribes from a distance took their departure early this morning, peaceably: first making a large heap of their old kakahows, and burning them. It is customary, when they return home, to burn all the garments which they have had on at the time that they killed men.— Mr Kemp and Mr Shepherd went down to the point to see the body of Tettee. Shunghee was busily employed in making a small enclosure of pieces of a canoe, decorated with feathers and carved work, after their manner, in which to deposit the bodies of the brothers Tettee and Apoo.— Part of the bodies of the people killed yesterday were then roasting at a fire at a little distance: and some human flesh, ready cooked, lay in baskets on the ground. Shunghee had the audacity to ask them to eat some, and said it was better than pork.— Part of one poor woman killed yesterday, the Natives cooked on the side of the hill, at the back of our house: the head they cut off and rolled down the hill: and several of them amused themselves for some time, in throwing large stones on it till they had dashed it to pieces; when Mr Puckey got it from them and buried it. “We hear that , among the slaves who were taken from hence to Wyemattee yesterday, one of them, a woman, becoming tired or lame, could not keep up with the rest: she was, in consequence, killed and eaten— this being the custom in New Zealand!” ———— In conclusion, is with pleasure I have to state, that since the time ^at which [f] the above took place some New Zealanders have died in the full assurance of faith; and others are walking in the fear and love of God, as monuments of his Sovereign mercy and Grace. Such are the wonderful effects of a preached Gospel.”— I have no doubt but, in that day when God shall make up his Jewels many of them will be claimed as the redeemed of the Lamb to the honour and praise and Glory of His Grace! They will sit down with Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob in the Kingdom of Heaven, there to praise redeeming love forever and ever.— Amen!